Squeaking was coming from the back of the drum, not the glides. The hardest part was trying to figure out how to pull the drum out. With a little extra tug, the back pin of the drum lifted out of the socket. That was the cause of the sqeak. Just cleaned it up and added some grease and good as new. I noticed the front glides were worn and replaced it.
I turned off the power, unscrewed the 4 screws from the top of the dryer. I then opened it and turned the switch that was in there counterclockwise exactly as utube video said to do. I then took off the two wires from the old switch. The rotary start switch fix right in where the old one was. I put the panel back together, put on the old knob and turned the power back on! It took less than 15 minutes from start to finish! If I can do it anyone can! Joanne Klinkhammer Cecil, Wisconsin
Timers are made to turn clockwise and break when turned counter clockwise
We are a retirement community and when we opened March '07 the company purchased GE washer and dryers to go in our common area laundry rooms for the residents to use. Because of their age, they will often turn the knob counter clockwise and not the right diirection which breaks the device which is not good. With in 3 days of installation they had broken 2 of the new knobs. But, the ordering was simple, the shipment was fast and the install was quick for the maintenance tech.
I ordered the rear bearing kit from the local supplier here in Marsh Harbour, Abaco the Bahamas. Delivery for the kit was 3 to 4 weeks from my local supplier.NOT PARTSELECT. While waiting I found this site and after reading the VERY helpful instructions from your customers, I realised that I would probably need additional parts, top and bottom front felt seals, maybe a new drive belt. I ordered these online and had the parts deliverd to a friends address in West Palm Beach Florida. The parts arrived in about 2 days. My wife was already there and brought the parts back.
Installation was very straight forward. Read the other installation reports and you will not have a problem. The only thing I can add is, DO NOT LOOSE THE SMALL BALL BEARING. I did and it took me about an hour to find it. My suggestion is to do a dry run installation of the bracket WITH OUT the small ball bearing. Tape the backing plate?that keeps the ball breaing inplace to the outside of the back panel with duct tape so that the screw hole will line up. Once this is done put some grease (Supplied with the kit) in the hole on the nylon bracket and attach with the two screws, do not over tighten. Grease up the area where the rear bearing shaft support will sit.
Installation of the rear bearing shaft support was straight forward. This is on the dryer drum. Extra hands are must for this.
I was very pleased with Partselct. Dryer works like new.
I followed the video instructions. I did have to run to the hardware store to pick up a torx screwdriver but otherwise the instructions were perfect. I generally hire someone to do repairs, but this was too easy! I highly recommend doing this yourself as it is definitely a time and money saver. The website made ordering easy and the part arrived quickly!
The switch was broken and had to use pliers to start dryer
Disconnected the power removed 4 screws from top panel. Removed 2 wires, turned switch counter clockwise. remopved switch. Replaced with new switch,connected the 2 wires, put panel back inplace,put screws back in panel,plugged dryer back in. SUPER SIMPLE Total time 5 minutes
Removed top of dryer, took screws out of back of dryer, pulled drum off front of dryer, removed old belt and slid new one in place. Reattached drum to front and slid belt in place only to find it was the wrong size. Called an appliance repair man, he said happens more ften than not.
I took the top and front off the dryer. I then took the screws out of the drum and removed the drum. I then took the old bearing out and put the new one in.
Depending on the condition of the bearing there are two methods described here to change the bearing, the first (and easiest) is if the bearing saddle was not damaged to the point of not allowing the bearing to lift out of it and the second is for when the saddle is damaged. There are a few items common to both methods so I will start with them and with the belt release.
Parts Needed Bearing and Shaft kit. Do not bother replacing just bearing or just shaft, do the kit as it is the bearing/shaft and saddle and comes with new ball bearing and grease. Belt. if going through all this trouble replace the belt while there.
Tools needed: 8mm open/box wrench good philips head screwdriver a stubby philips screwdriver putty knife or wide flat screwdriver some duct tape
ACCESS
First, unplug the power to the unit and shut the gas off. You'll be working around the motor and burner so this is needed. Then using the putty knife or flat screwdriver remove the top panel by depressing the latches in the horizontal seam on the front side approx 2" in from each corner. remove the panel and set it out of the way. Now unhook the door sensor wires and mark or store them in a manner so you will remember which side of the switch they plug into. On each corner approx 6" down there is a philips screw, remove these and tilt the front panel forward (to clear the drum and duct seals) then lift upwards to remove the door panel. Set this out of the way too.
REMOVE BELT FROM MOTOR
The motor pulley and tensioner are hard to see but can be done blind just by feel, they are on the lower right front side of the unit. Reach in on each side of the motor and with left hand push the tensioner towards the right side while with right hand pulling down on the tensioner spring (its a weak spring) to release it from the metal tab on bottom. Once this is down the tensioner will move to the left and the belt can be removed from the drive puller easily.
At this point you can slide the belt forward and remove it and slide new belt on if you are only doing a belt replace. Install procedures will be listed below.
REMOVING DRUM
FOR NON-DAMAGED SADDLE
If the saddle is not damaged you can now jerk up (not too much force) on the rear of the drum and this will pop the shaft bearing end out of the saddle. Then carefully slide the drum forward through the cabinet to a palce you can access it easy. Remove the shaft and bearing from the drum by removing the three phillips screws whose heads are inside the drum. Now remove the saddle from the cabinet by removing the 2 bolts (8mm head) that go trough the rear, there is a ball bearing in the saddle that may be useful to save in case you drop the new one and there is a screwplate on exterior rear that will fall when you remove the final bolt.
FOR DAMAGED SADDLE
If the saddle is damaged (distorted) the procedure is a bit different and quite a bit harder, but not awful bad. It adds about 20 to 60 minutes extra (depends on how the screws come out) to the whole job. First remove the drum from the shaft by unscrewing the three philips head screws from inside the drum and, like in prior method, carefully pull the drum through the front of the cabinet and set it aside. Then to remove the saddle you may be able to remove the two 8mm head bolts by flexing the plate to the side and loosening each bolt a bit while alternating. However I had to actually move the burner ducts a bit to get at mine as I could not turn the left side bolt. This is where the stubby screwdriver is needed, there are 4 philips screws whose heads are hidden by the seals on the ducts, by folding the seal back a bit you can access them. I was able to just do the three at the top, left, and lower left and slide the duct a bit to allow wrench access to the bolt. I did not have to remove the lowest screw myself but you may need to. Always make sure to not bend the tin too much and this will hurt heat movement through the system. Once you have the saddle removed, rememberi
