TOOK OFF TOP AND FRONT PANEL REACHED IN UNDER TUBE AND REMOVED FROM BELT TENSIONER HARDEST PART IS PUTTING BACK ON TENSIONER TAKES TWO HANDS LAYING ON YOUR BELLY
Watched the video on a different style of dryer so taking apart a bit of a challenge. The old Front Drum Bearing was completely gone on left side and a challenge to pry it off the front dryer panel. replaced felt seal and front drum bearing. noticed that there was 4 places for new bearing slides. the ones i ordered were white and green but did not know why or which one went where as no explanation with packaging. also only ordered one of each and so now had to stop and try and find two more. ! hour later i had brought back a tupperware lid that was thick enough and stated could go to 194 degrees F. i cut out one replacement for green bearing and reused the old white one since it was in good shape from right side of drum bearing. i went back to this website and noticed in the comments section for drum bearing that someone stated the green bearing slides go in at positions 11 and 1 and the white at 10 and 2. they are different materials and having more weight of drum on green now made sense. put machine back together and told neice to keep eyes and ears on dryer thru cycle. she did not even know it was running just in next room.
Unplugged dryer, slid away from wall, and rotated 90 degrees. I removed top panel, and front panel, pulling off 2 electrical wires, and disconnecting 1 Molex connector, for the door switch. I turned the front panel around, and leaned up against the dryer drum. I removed the light bulb, then snapped off the remains of the upper bearing, then unsnapped the duct panel assembly. I carefully positioned the duct assembly against the front panel, carefully making sure not to pinch any wires, and pressed into place. I then pushed the bottom of the top bearing into the duct assembly, and pushed the top into place, replacing the bearing wear strips, 2 black, 2 white once bearing is snapped into place. I rewired the door switch, put the bulb back in, screwed the front panel, then top panel back on, rotated back into position, plugged it in, and started dryer. Problem solved!
Two screws under the dryer door then the top comes off.Then two screws hold the front on come out. 4 screws top is off and front is off the rest is no problem.
Took apart the dryer housing fairly quickly, pulled out the drum, and installed the kit. Was fairly simple. Then reassembled. The hardest part was trying to get the belt on properly and reconnect to the motor. Believe it or not, I wasted most of my time on the belt. Should've watched the video better and listened to my wife and her suggestions.
After much research I decided to have to repaired all new models were not good. Reached out to local service repair because I beleved that it was the timer. $270 for service call REALLY and $125 for part. Reached ot to PART SELECT LOVE YOU GUYS) SAID WHAT WAS THE PROBLEM the chocie was a new knob or replace timer. I am 83 yr old woman and believe I could have done it myself if it wasn't for the problem of moving the dryer out. shut off electric four screws take out old replace new rewire the four screws WORKING NEPHEW DID IT IN TEN MINUTES NO CHARGE BUT THANK YOU PART SELECT FOR REAFFIRMING MY DIAGNOSIS. AUDREY
Replace broken drum belt and belt idler pully wheel.
Watched video instruction, paying attention to what it showed in machine. Several virsions of similar designs over the years, look over yours and note access points, take pictures as you go! Just pay attention, it is very logical. Spread the side panels to get the drum in and out, and pay attention to drum axel in back and the bushing it rides in. Be patient, be firm but gentle, no real forcing needed if you are alligned. Be sure the grooves of belt are on the drum, drive wheel on motor, no twists. Reverse order to reassemble. There are several internet videos of models with same basic setup, so look at others if one doesn't show the detail you need to see, or clear some uncertainty. Your local hardware to sorce push fastening for the idler wheel to shaft if you mash it up, they are cheep and several styles will work.
The video of the dryer lint chute assembly showed the man without gloves. I didn’t wear gloves. When I disconnected the wire from the front panel assembly, my hand jerked and hit the side of the panel. It must have been razor blade sharp, because I got a deep cut. Advise people to wear gloves to protect hands from sharp metal.
I had to convert from natural gas to liquid propane
My son is an engineer and repairs washers and dryers for a large commercial laundry company on a daily basis. He installed my part easily and had me up and running in no time.
