Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Machine agitated during cycle but would not spin clothes dry.
Followed the excellent video instructions. They say you can perform the repair without removing the enclosure, but when I saw how easy it was to remove it, it definitely improves the access and speeds the repair. Have a piece of wire handy to to hold the pump assembly out of the way. Installed new clutch kit and it runs like a champ.
While taking apart my washing machine to clean the plastic basket I discovered the 3 main seals down the agitator were completely disintegrated and water was leaking onto the motor and onto the floor. The seals are a tight fit but slide into place easily with lubrication. When putting everything back together a bit of lubrication will be necessary as well. The leak is gone and my nearly 30 year old washer is working as well as the day it came off of the assembly line.
After removing the 2 phillips screws at the base of the control panel, I flipped the panel toward the back. Using a screwdriver, I popped off the spring clips, releasing the cabinet. I removed the 1/4" hex head screw on the spring mount and removed the old spring and replaced with the new. I repeated this with the other 2 springs. The spring bracket in the rear also holds the tub balancing spring. It is easily replaced while replacing the suspension spring. If this didn't fix the problem, we were going shopping for a new washer. After this repair, it operates like new!
Washer basket off-center and wobbling during spin cycle
Remove the washer case/enclosure to expose all the internal parts. Lie on the floor and with pliers and a strong arm. Remove and replace each spring one at a time. Pretty straightforward.
Changing the springs was a ...snap. The more delicate task was to figure out how to get to them; for this model, the back panel comes off (after removing 3 screws, the drain hose and drain hose plastic coupler, removing the 2 screws holding the control panel, pivoting the control panel and finally removing two spring clips. Also, the plastic water diverter takes a little bit of patience to be unhooked from its slots in the back panel as it will not slide out with the back panel. With the back panel off, the entire "shell" can be removed, exposing the guts. I twisted the tub to release the tension in the suspension springs and replaced them, one by one. Finally, the counterweight spring. I also lubed the support pads to allow for a "friendlier" leveling. Re-assemble, replace the old and cracked water supply hoses, and time for a beer and my girlfriend's obligatory OOOOHs and AAAAHs... All in all (cleanup and test included..) about one hour.
Broken water inlet syphon combined with missing feet was causing water to spill out of the washer
I removed the back of the washer, removed the old water inlet syphon, replaced it with the new one, and, with some difficulty, replaced the back of the washer, reattaching all of the parts to it.
diconnected water supply and discharge, unplugged the unit, removed the aggitator, laid the washer on it's back, romoved the hoses from the pump, took out 3 bolts, removed the motor/transmission and replaced the clutch and put it all back together.
Washer would not start adjutating unless I opened and closed the lid a few times.
Unplugged the main power. Removed the 2 screws in the back and top of the control panel. Pulled control panel forward and tipped towards me to remove from top of washer. Removed the ground wire screw with a socket/ratchet. Removed the switch by pressing the tap inwards. The tab was brittle and broke. Replaced the switch, ground wire with screw and the control panel. I notice that the 2 screws which secure the switch lever/hinge to the lid were loose. These 2 loose screws were actually the problem in the first place. The loose lever was not making good contact with the switch. I think the switch was actually fine but since I broke the tab on the switch I needed to replace it anyhow. Plugged in power cord and washed a load.
After reading other comments about lid switch replacement , I knew the front of the control panel would move forward and lift off. Although none of the descriptions mention the steel clips that were also use to hold the cover down. It does take quite a bit of presure to pry these up and loose before panel would move forward. Would recomend putting tape on both washer and screwdriver to protect washer.
Disconnected old power cord inside control cabinet, removed strain relief , then removed damaged power cord. Reinstalled new cord with new strain relief.
Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you
Washer not completing rinse cycle. Broken centrifugal switch
I disconnect power from wall outlets. Turn off pipes and remove water hoses from machine. Clear machine making room to operate. I removed two Phillip head screws from behind the console, press down lightly on console then flipped it back. Disconnect the lid switch by releasing the plastic clip. Used a screwdriver to release the 2 metal holding clips (one on each side on top of machine. Ease the case up slightly then pull back gaining access to the centrifugal switch which is mounted to the motor with one Phillip head screw. One end of switch was broken and disconnected. Motor was not keeping up. Discharged capacitor by grounding the terminals with an insulated plyers. Lift the clip on the broken switch then pull the connector off. With new switch in hand, remove each of the 5 wires from the old switch by using a needle nose pliers one by one and connect them to the new switch making sure each one is properly secured in please. Connect the new switch to the motor using the single screw. Secure the connector to switch. Replace case by tilting back about 45 degrees, slide under front frame of machine all the way then down inplace. Use the two metal clips to secure frame to rear panel. Reconnect lid switch. Return machine to usual spot, reconnect water hoses, turn pipes on make sure there are no leaks. Plug back into wall outlet. Washer was tried and all cycles were completed.
I followed the online instructions to remove the shell and attempted to remove the drum, but not having the special wrench to remove the special nut, tried using a screwdriver and hammer, which failed to loosen the nut. I then started examining the the undercarriage and saw that I could replace the springs without removing the tub and did that. In the course of replacing the springs I discovered I could also access the wear pads by lifting the drum off of the undercarriage and placing a block to hold it above the pads. I was able to pop the old pads out by tapping underneath them with a hammer. The new pads were then installed and the weight of the drum popped them in. It was necessary to lift the drum assembly three times for each of the three pads.
The water intake hose had a hole and was leaking. I think a rat chewed it.
I first watched a YouTube video on how to open up the machine. It was a breeze. I removed the part the hose attaches to where the water comes out and into the tub. The hardest part was removing the old hose clamps. Had I known I would have used new clamps. I took off old hose and replaced with the new one, it took longer because of the clamp issue. Otherwise it went fairly easy, to my surprise. Even tho I am a 70 yr old woman I will try to fix what I can. Doing this saved me at least $600. For a new washing machine. I'm so proud of myself.
