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The refrigerator was leaking water from the freezer section.
First remove all food from the freezer section, disconnect the power to the refrigerator and then remove all the shelves in the freezer.
Then remove the back panel inside the freezer by taking out the screws holding it in and then simply lifting it out. A Philips screwdriver and 1/4" driver was needed.
After the panel is removed, you can see the defrost heater screwed to the refrigerator coils. It's in two sections wired together. One section is screwed to the bottom of the coil and the top section is screwed half way up the coils.
Unplug the wires and thermostat (coming from the defrost heater) from the wire assembly located above the coils.
Next, remove the screws holding the old defrost heater (there are two screws for each element of the defroster)and lift the heater out. Pay close attention as to how the old heater is situated in the freezer in order to put the new one in the same way.
Attach the new heater by putting the bottom element on first and replacing the two screws to secure it. Be careful to keep the wires from tangling and attach the top element the same way.
Next, carefully connect the wires and thermostat from the heater back to the wire assembly the same way they were connected from the old defrost heater.
Place the panel back in place in the back of the freezer section, replace the shelves, and connect the power. You're finished!!
P.S. Don't forget to put the food back in the freezer.
de light flasing on freezer door electronic disply
I removed the back wall panel inside the freezer compartment(approx. 6 screws). The coils were very iced up. I manually defrosted the the coils with a hand hair dryer. I then removed the 2 screws from each heater element and the clip-on thermostat from the coil. I pulled the elements, thermostat and wiring harness(item 230 on parts diagram) out of the freezer compartment and installed the new assembly. Electronic self-check of the defroster indicated normal. Further checks indicated the lower heating element was open.
The existing light switch was very hard to remove. I ended up having to grab it with a pair of pliers and pull it out. Once it was out, it was very easy to put in the replacement and it seems to be working fine.
After figuring out how to remove the old broken clip, replacement was easy. Had to use a small putty knife to open the release on the bottom underside of the clip(between the clip & the refrig) . By looking at the replacement piece it was easy to figure out.
This replacement of the light shield was fast and easy. I wish they all good go this smooth.
I repaired as follows. 1) Open freezer door. 2)Removed ice maker bin. 3) removed screw with broken tab on it. 4) install new shield slide to side. 5) Reinstall screw. 6) Grab TAB (tasty adult beverage) and enjoy on back deck while talking about how good you are at repairing stuff.... HA!
Moving the refrigerator into my new (very old) house we had to remove the doors which resulted in a crimped hose and union
Remove lower front panel, disconnect damaged union from water hose under freezer door, replace with new union, tighten and reattach front panel. No more water coming from under the unit. Ice maker and dispenser features returned to working order!
Take the back panel off inside of freezer side. Cut the wires off old Defrost Thermostat and strip the ends. Attach the wires of the new one and tighten with wire nuts. Put back panel back on.
Loosened screws holding old gasket to door. Removed old gasket. Fit new gasket around strips holding gasket in place---this was not easy. Tightened screws.
I began by turning off the refridgerator and then removing all of the drawers/bins and icemaker from the freezer.
I removed the three phillips-head screws across the top of the rear access panel. (same height as the light bulb) I then removed the two phillips-head screws from the bottom of the access panel.
I removed the access panel by swinging the left side forward to clear the drawer slides, while keeping the right side back against itsattaching points. (Like a door swinging on its hinges.)
I followed the wire harness from the upper heating element up to its connector and unplugged the defrosting heaters from the plug. I then gently removed the little (just smaller than a tea light candle) thermostat from the top of the coils. (Not far from where the wire connector was.)
I removed two phillips head screws for each heater unit and removed the whole thing as on big assembly.
I installed the new parts from the bottom up, careful not to damage anything. I installed the new thermostat carefully and then reconnected the wire harness. Next I reinstalled the access panel, starting twith the top center screw to hold it in place during the installation of the other 4 screws in the corners.
Lastly, I put the drawers / bins and icemaker back in and turned the refrigerator back on. DONE.
It corrected the problem. THANKS for the Great Customer Service, too!
It took me about 15 minutes to complete the repair, 1st I emptied the ice maker, then I removed 4 screws from the rear of the ice maker tray and took the plastic piece off of the auger. I reversed the steps and put it back together.
as described, I used a thin screwdriver to wedge in and pull down existing, broken switch. I was able to pull it down about a 1/4 inch, but wasn't quit able to disegage it until I gripped it with pliers. I then pulled it out, unplugged the old switch, plugged in the new switch, and carefully tucked the wires back into the fridge and snapped the new switch into place.
1. Turned unit off and removed freezer shelving 2. Removed 5 screws on back pannel to expose heaters 3. Deforsted coils with a hair dryer and removed ice cubes 4. Compaired new defrost harness to the existing 5. Removed 4 screws holding the defective harness 6. Installed new heater harness with 4 screws and elec. plug 7. Reinstalled back pannel and shelving 8. Turned unit back on
Ice buildup. The Ice Machine was frosting over. Ice (due to frosting) would block the drop chute.
Unfortunately, the replacement part didn't come with instructions. The repair, nevertheless, was fairly straightforward. After removing the plastic parts that guide the ice through the door (by removing a few screws that attach the parts to the inside of the door), I was able to slip my hand into the ice maker dispenser and remove the old part. The part clips on. It is a tight fit through the funnel (from the outside of the freezer), however, and requires that the gasket first be "flipped" open wherein it unfolds 180 degrees. Doing this will make it easier to clip the new gasket onto the assembly.
Top of refrigerator and freezer are warmer than bottom. Also, a large amoutnt of ice build up in the back of the freezer.
**Before you order a new part make sure you get the FULL model number off of the back of the refrigerator** To even get to the back panel I had to melt the ice in the back of the freezer with a hair dryer. Once the ice was gone I removed 5 screws that held the panel that covers the coils. I melted more ice from the coils. I disconnected the connector for the old heater wiring harness and pooped the thermosat off. Then, removed the screws that held the heaters (2 per heater). Installed new heaters and connected wiring harness. Snapped new thermosat on. Replaced coil cover and plugged it back in.