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Ice Bin Enclosure Cracked
As the previous users have stated, remove the ice tray, then remove the ice bin enclosure. Watch for the screws that are used to mount the enclosure. As you slide the enclosure forward, go slowly, there is a wiring connector at the back, you will need to un-plug this connector. The solenoid assy is kind of tricky, as it is spring loaded, but easy to figure out. As previously mentioned, the auger yoke is on a shaft that has to be removed by turning it clockwise (reverse threads). Be careful with that, as it is hard to hold on to the shaft while getting the yoke off. Now remount the motor, remount the spring loaded solenoid assy, slide the ice bin enclosure back in a ways, then reconnect the wiring harness, slide it the rest of the way in, tighten the screws, and you are ready to make ice again. Approx 30 minute job.
Water dispenser and ice maker wouldn't work (bought the fridge u$ed)
I bought the following parts:
PS109042 Double Outlet Water Valve PS46363 Dual Outlet Water Valve Kit
When I bought the fridge, the part that PS109042 replaces was cracked and leaking water badly. When I ordered the replacement part, I got confused and ordered PS46363 by mistake. The original parts look similar even when side by side, but the replacement parts are revised drastically.
PS46363 is for the line that is between the water source and the water filter. The original lines from the filter are split (the original part has two inlets) and pipe to one inlet. You'll have to cut your hose right before it forks. The directions that come with the part are very straight-forward.
PS109042 actually distributes the filtered water to the water dispenser and icemaker. The old part had plastic fittings that held the water hosing to the part. The new part has no plastic fittings, yet holds the hosing to the part tightly. The directions that come with the part are very short and concise.
I also replaced the factory water filter with a Brita replacement (they are cheaper and I've used Brita filters before...they are solid).
All in all, I spent less than $100 on fixing a $500 used fridge that works as good as new. My wife was initially doubtful but fairly satisfied with the cost of the parts and the simplicity of installing them.
Easy to diagnose problem because there was water to the water dispenser but none to the newly installed icemaker. Originally did attempt to clean the solenoid but found the plunger assembly damaged.
New part arrived sooner than I thought it would. Takes about as much time to remove the lower vent cover as to replace the valve. Remove the electrical plug from the wall, valve off the main water supply, remove lower vent cover, disconnect the supply hose from refrigerator valve assembly, remove one hex head mounting screw and you have both water valves in your hands. Identify the valve the supplies water to the filter and the one that supplies water to the icemaker/water dispenser. Then confirm which plastic water supply line goes to the water dispenser and which goes to the icemaker. Hose diameters are different but it is good to know. Disconnect the plastic water supply lines from both the ice dispenser and the icemaker portions of the valve. Replacement solenoid valve does not have thread on type compression fittings. Snip about an inch off of each hose and then press into the appropriate valve orifice.
Making sure the plastic supply lines do not get crimped, remount the valve assembly, reattach the supply hose, valve on the water and check for leaks. No leaks, reinstall dust cover and plug the refrigerator back in.
Move the unit back in place and then take a long deserved beer out and have a celebratory toast for a job well done.
(1) Removed the three screws which attached the ice maker to the freezing compartmnet wall in refrigerator; (2) Disconnected the power to the old ice maker; (3) Removed the old ice maker from the freezing compartment of the refrigerator; (4) Took the white front cover off of the old ice maker; (5) Disconnected the wiring harness from the old ice maker; (6) Removed the "ice making-stop arm" from the old ice maker; (7) Placed the items taken from old ice maker on to the new ice maker; (8) Reconnected the new ice maker to the power; (9) Placed the new ice maker in the proper position in freezing compartment of refrigerator and replaced the three screws. JOB DONE!
I had to cut off the old yoke since the threads had stripped and it would not come off. Once I did that all I had to do was to remove 4 screws on the auger motor and replace it with the new auger motor. Then I put the yoke on the new auger motor shaft and then put the unit back in the freezer. Work time was less than 15 minutes with no problems.
I called PartSelect and was greeted by a real live person instead of a recording. The lady was very helpful and kind. We decided on the part that I needed, and it arrived to my home in less time than she said it should. I completed the repair with the instructions provided in just a short time. My experience with PartSelect was positive, and it reminded me of the way businesses used to be. I highly recommend them.
I called a repair man from a pretty large name to come out and take a look. He found out in about 10 minutes that it was a bad capacitor. The quote he gave me was $75 for the part and $175 labor. I tried my best not to laugh and tell him no thank you. He did have to charge me for him to show up, which was only $98. So I used what he told(minus the "scrap it") and opened it back up. Although he had left wires everywhere and the broken pieces laying inside, I thought it was enough for me to order the part. PartSelect was very easy to navigate and ordering was a breeze. Took about 4 days to get the part and I ordered in the X-mas craze. Fixed it in about 15 minutes.
Ice bucket auger yoke was stripped out and turned freely
Removed the ice bucket from the freezer. Removed the single screw on the left side with a nut driver, then lift and pull the tray toward you...there is a wiring harness in back of the tray that I had to unplug...easy, pinch the sides of the plastic connector and it disconnects..and the tray came out of the refrigerator...and the cussing started. Since the threaded yoke was stripped it could not be unscrewed from the motor shaft...I took my trusty Dremel Tool and cut the shaft off so the yoke could be separated from the motor shaft and the motor could be removed from the plastic housing. From here on it was a piece of cake...install the new motor and screw the new yoke onto the motor shaft... I think it has a left handed thread, like the old propane bottles used to have..slide the tray back in, reconnect the wiring harness (it only plugs in one way), make sure the tray is sitting on the 4 side supports, put the single screw on the left side and you are done....put the ice bucket back in and flip the bail down and you should be back on business....!!
Sides and door frames of the refrigerator warm to the touch.
Confirmed the condenser fan was the problem when I noted it was not running when the compressor was on. Removed 3 mounting screws, unpluggede the fan. Removed and replaced the mounted flange(3 screws) and remounted. Plugged in fan and it started running.
Thanks for the diagrams and quick delivery. This is the second repair on appliances I have made with your parts and probably saved $300-400 in service calls.
I Removed the two wires from the old relay. I Then pulled the old relay off the compressor. Next, I had to get the overload seperated from the old burnt relay, which took some care not to break. The old relay and overload is in a plastic compartment. Then I followed the directions that came with the new relay. The only confusion came with getting the two wires back onto the terminals of the new relay, mainly because the old relay was burnt so badly I didn't have any idea how it was originally wired. I crossed the two wires on the terminals of the relay. The compressor would click off and on, but would not start blowing cold air. I swapped the wires on the terminals and it started working immediately.
Upon careful inspection, I found that the dispenser also would occasionally fail to shut off when dispensing whole or crushed ice, which led me to think that the problem was in the dispenser actuator rather than in the water solenoid or fountain switch control board. To inspect the actuator mechanism, I shut off power to the refrigerator, removed the escutcheon mounting screws, the escutcheon, the cable from the fountain switch control board, and finally the fountain bracket assembly. There was a small amount of hard water scale on the back of the actuator pad, but no groove in the plastic part of the pad that actuates the switch. I replaced the pad and switch (1 screw) and reassembled the dispenser. The dispenser no longer sticks and shuts off normally.
getting it apart wasn't to bad. except when the small part that functions with the door flap fell out before i could see how it was installed orginally. after a few moments of trail and error figuired it out. previous messages you had posted from other customers helped alot, especially the gentleman who said screws were left handed made a big differance in getting it apart. glad you had the part. works great.
I don't know anything about repairing a refrigerator - I'm a computer tech. I noticed that the outside of the fridge was warm to the touch and the inside was not getting as cold as it should. I took the lower back panel behind the fridge off and noticed that the fan was not spinning. The local parts dealers did not have the condenser fan motor that was needed but they did say that they do go bad. I decided to order one from PartSelect.com and do it myself. Using a 1/4 inch nut driver and a flat head screw driver to pry the old motor out of the casing, I got the job done in about an hour or so. It's a relativly easy job. Besides the ouside panel screws, there's 3 screws on the inside near the fan blades you have to reach in to get. Pop out the whole assembly, unscrew the nut that holds the blades on and pry out the old motor and replace.. Try it yourself and save a couple hundred bucks!
