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unit quit cooling
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the wiring harness plug, replaced the old timer with the new one, re-connected the wiring harness and reinstalled the mount in position. Hardest thing about it was lying on the floor.
tested defrost timer and heater. And then tested defrost timer with ohm test($6 at hard ware store) Closed and would not open replace and tested freezer take 30mins to get switch cold and retest.
Fridge door wasn't sealing properly causing it to run more.
Simply removed (many) screws from the door shelving panel. Removed old gasket, installed new one and screwed it back on. A rather simple repair that will allow me continued use of my older fridge.
A screw driver was used to remove two screws that held the old fan in place the new fan ws installed exactly where the old one came out and presto the job was complete. No major deal.
Looked up similar problems and found it to be the defrost timer. All I had to do was remove the plastic portion in the fridge section to get to the old timer. Popped the new one in and put it back together. Works great now. Would have been almost $150 to have a repair company come out and fix it.
Was really basic, simply slide off the old caps, slide on the new ones, put the shelf back where it goes, push down lightly so as to not snap the new caps, and viola, complete. No more than 2 minutes worth of work. Great part at a great price, shipping was more than the part itself so I bought 2 of each. Only problem I ran into was that I ordered the top shelf caps instead of the bottom the first time, so I had to reorder.
Freezer frosted up, refrigerator compartment heated up
I removed the housing at the top of the refrigerator compartment that contained the reefer light and temperature adjustment knob. This required a small nut-driver. Inside, I found the old defrost control, unplugged it, unscrewed it with a Phillips screwdriver, and replaced it with the replacement part. Then I replaced the housing to its original position.
Removed the housing with the light, 4 hexhead screws. This exposed the defrost timer, removed 2 hexhead screws, electrical connector and reassembled the unit.
Door shelf retainer bar end caps broke off at insertion point.
Removed plastic male parts. Inserted new end caps onto old retainer bar. Inserted all into door. A snap, but I didn't need to order the retainer bar after all - the old one was the perfect fit and the one I ordered was way too long. I returned the new retainer bar, and the shipping was more expensive than the part.
First I removed the plastic grill (pulled out, no screws) from bottom of refrigerator, then I removed electrical plug & two screws from old timer (timer located on the front inside left lower side of refrigerator). Installed in reverse order.
1. Turned off the cooling cycle and unplugged the refrigerator. 2. Removed all of the shelving and bottom basket. 3. Removed rear covering in the freezer section. 4. If frosted over, manually defrost coils with hairdryer. 5. Located original thermostat and after marking the wire locations cut the wires and removed the Thermostat. 6. Connected matching wires using a lighter to melt the wires together. Wrapped repaired wires with electricians tape. 7. Unable to install the thermostat in the recommended location (freezer is a tight fit) the new part was installed at the original location. 8. Replaced the rear cover and shelves. 9. Plugged in the refrigerator and set the cycle back to cooling. 10. Monitored freezer coils couple of days/weeks depending on how fast they freeze over (slots at bottom of cover) to validate if problem solved.