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ignitor went out
one screw holds the cover to the connector. one screw for the burner tube to the oven frame. two screws hold the ignitor bracket/assembly to the burner tube. that's it. take four screws off and disconnect. connect and put four screws back on.
Removed the drawer from under the stove then unscrewed the access panel in the back (two phillips head screws). Rather than take it off altogether I just swung it to one side.
The ignitor electrical connector required two hands to disconnect and it was a bit of a reach but came apart easily enough once I got hold of it.
Removed the racks and bottom from the oven. the bottom is held in by two pins in the back that you just slide toward the front then lift it out. I did not bother to remove the oven door, but some people might.
Then removed the two hex head screws holding the ignitor on and pulled the connector out of the hole leading to the bottom.
Installation is the reverse of removal The electrical connector was reluctant to back down the hole, but went with a little wiggling and pulling from underneath. Once you get it back down there the connector is keyed, so you can't get it wrong.
Piece of cake, really.
Total repair time: about 30 minutes, including the mandatory halfway beer break.
I expected to see a thermocouple and a heating element next to the gas valve but after reviewing other PartSelect stories from people with a similar problem I realized that the heating element also serves as the switch. Apparently as the heating element is energized by the oven control it draws more amps. The gas valve is allowed to open at a specific level corresponding to a sufficiently glowing heating element. I ordered a new heating element. The part received was made up of two pieces. The heating element and the metal mounting bracket. The element was identical but assumingly due to the age of my stove the bracket was slightly different. Fortunatly I was able to slide the new element into the old bracket. The only other obsticle was that the new element came with a two conductor connector and the old was installed with ceramic wire nuts. The connector was cut off and the ceramic wire nuts were reused. Its working fine.
I removed the oven racks, the bottom of the stove and a v-shaped cover that was over the heating element. The old gas ignitor screwed off easily after I put W-D 40 on the nuts. I un ooked the old gas igniter and replaced it with the new one. The oven lit immediately after I replaced everything. I am very proud of my self, I feel like a femal Bob Villa. I almost bought a new range. Boy am I happy!
I first removed the screws inside the oven,let the tube that the flames come out of hang down,removed the screws from the igniter. Then I took the cover off the back of the stove and unplugged the old igniter and plugged in the new one. I put all screws back and put every thing back in place and the oven has been heating up every since. Thank you parts select. My husband is a otr trucker and won't be home until the 20th of this month. One less item on his "honey do list".
Removed oven door by opening slightly and lifting straight up. Pulled out racks and removed bottom of oven. Unscrewed wingnut and removed burner shield. Removed 2 screws that hold igniter and unplugged the connection. Reverse the procedure to put it all back together. Be patient, it takes a few moments for it to begin heating when you first turn it on. So easy a woman can do it ! I know,(I am one).
Removed stove top, 3 of 4 sealed burners were a bugger to get loose, then took out two screw that held thermostat to front of stove, then removed thermostat sensor from the brackets in oven, then removed sensor from oven up thru stove top, and out. Reinstalled new unit, test ran. Oven still wouldn't heat :( Back to PartSelect to order igniter. Got it in 2 days, put IT in, and we're back in bizness! Spent more time cleaning stove than repairing it. Thanks, PS!
The oven bottom was warped and could not be positioned properly in the oven.
Removing the old oven bottom was easy...as it was already outside of its slots. Installing the new one was pretty easy. I placed the oven bottom in the front slots first...then the rear slots...no tools necessary.
1960's oven door gasket fell apart, actual gasket not available any more
Chose rubber flexible gasket with metal tabs. cut to size. unscrewed metal bracket on inside oven edge on 3 sides, slipped metal tabs between oven and metal and screwed back in. Done! Not a perfect fit but pretty good - better than no gasket.