MLE22PDAZW0 Maytag - Instructions

(I knew the gas coils were bad, since the gas ignitor would glow brightly as the burner attempted to ignite. So I knew everything except the gas valve was operating normally.)

Unplug the electrical cord to the dryer. Remove the front access panel. Remove the retainer clip for the gas coils (2 screws). Remove the coils and unplug the electrical connections. Connect the new coils to their respective electricl connections. Slide the nes coils back onto their respective posts on the gas valve. Replace the retainer clip, and 2 screws to hold it in place. (I then plugged the dryer back into the wall outlet to visually check the burner operation) Everything worked fine so I then replaced the front panel.

replacing the hook was simple 2 torx screws. the latch assembly seemed ok I could hear it trying to latch the hook so i just replace the broken hook.

The repair was fairly easy. The most timely part of the repair was removing the twelve screws from the back panel to expose the repair.

Removed front of dryer, unplugged each coil to determine where buzzing was coming from.....determined it was the boosting coil....ordered part and replaced. Dryer works great....we think it had be going bad over time because drying times have noticeable decreased.

I first ordered the coils from a different web site and they sent the wrong ones. The job would have been much eaiser if i had just returned and ordered from here. Instead i cut wires and tried the others but since they were worng, it did not work. I didn't label the wires so it was a puzzle to put it back together. Once i had the wires connected properly it was a simple fix. You just open the top and take the front pannel off, remove the drum and it is right there at the bottom. Two screws take the cover off of the coils and they slide off the gas valve. Slide the new ones on and replace the cover. Put the front pannel back on, close the top and its good to go. I first tried the highlimit thermostat, and termostat with no luck. The flame would light when it was cold, but once warmed up, the flame would ignite and immediatly go out. The coils did the trick.

I remove the front control panel and to get to the bottom front dryer door off. Using my volt meter i checked all the sensors and thermal. I surf the internet for hint and some one mention to replace the coil since some time you could have one goes out and the other working still. After i replaced the coil kit it works like a champ.

I tested the dryer coils and found that they were getting a voltage but would not open the gas valve. Coils were not bad but weak. After they warmed up they would not open the gas valve. It took 10 min to repace both coils and the heat sensor.

Had to remove the back of unit to access the area of subject part by removeing 12 to 14 screws also the gas line had to be removed. Two screws held the part in place. Unit now runs normal.Saved alot on repair costs!!!!!

I unplugged the dryer,removed the two small screws on the front of the dryer and pulled the bottom forward. The two wires connected to the door do not have to be removed. With an electrical tester using the Ohm setting I tested the Radiant sensor and the Gas Valve coils. The two terminal coil was DOA. The dryer can be operated with the front open as long as the door wires are connected. Symptons: The igniter would heat up and not release gas. My repair was successfull due to this awesome website and the super fast shipping service. AAAA++++

the ignitor did not glow red checked thermal fuse by exhaust duct. fuse open replaced thermal fuse

Removed old filter and put in new one.

Turn of the electrical power to the machine. I took off the cover on the machine below the door. You had to use phillips screwdriver to get the three screws out. In order to replace the pump I had to lift the washing machine about three inches up slightly over to one side (needed a strong person to lift as there was a dryer on top of it). The old pump has to be removed with a nutdriver as there are two nuts holding the pump in place under the machine ( I had to run out to the hardware store to buy a smaller one to fit under the machine as the big wrench was to big to fit under the machine). I unplugged the electrical connection to the pump. I unclamped the hoses attached to the pump using a plier, make sure you have something to hold water that will drain from the hose. I then push/pull the old pump to the right out of its place, it is attached to the metal at the bottom of the machine. I put in the new pump and tighten the screws on the bottom (this is the tricky part as you cannot see - a mirror may help). I also reattached the hoses and electrical connection. I turned on the machine to rinse to make sure there were no leaks before putting back the cover. Before throwing out the old pump, you can shake it and look in the opening of the old pump for any valuables left in pockets that may have washed out. I found a 18k bracelet, 25 cents and a small screw which may have caused the hole in the pump . Good luck :)

I searched the internet for parts because we had just had a repairman out to fix the knocking noise in the washer drum. He found an underwire from a bra there and removed it. That cost about $100.

My husband took apart the bottom panel and showed me what the part looked like and I was able to find it on your website. I was able to order the parts and have my husband repair the washer so I was only without a washer for a week and a half. Thank you.

I opened the panel, undid the plugs, detached the radiant sensor by undoing one screw and removed and replaced the part. Fairly simply.

the problem was not the igniter its was the thermal fuse I broke the igniter during inspection of the problem be careful its a very easy thing to break repairs complete thank you parts select for the quick shipping and low prices