Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Oven wouldn't light.
It's happened before and the igniter has always been the problem. This time, however, the mounting holes were slightly off and had to be drilled out. The connector didn't mate up and so both had to be cut off, the wire stripped back and wire nuts used to make the connection. In the end, it all worked out. I guess since its kind of old, you can't stock every component for every oven. Oven works perfectly now.
f1&f3 error> continuous beeping,oven stopped working after using the self cleaning mode
I located the temp sensor (top left). Removed the 2x Phillips screws and slide the wire out until the plug is thru the opening taking care not to pull to hard as to damage the end that you not going to replace. To install plug it in and push the wire thru and secure with 2x Phillip screws.
Had an F2 message go off then F3 when I tried to turn the stove on
Unplugged the old temp sensor at the back of the stove. From the inside I removed the 2 retaining screws. I taped a string to the old wire and pulled it through so I could pull the new harness through on the new sensor. When the new sensor arrived I installed it in reverse order. Easy peasy. Works great!!!!
F 3 signal on display pad every time oven warmed up
Removed all the racks from inside the oven, unscrewed the 6 screws that held it into the cabinet, pulled it out and sat it on the floor in front of the cabinet. Removed the oven sensor from the inside of the oven after disconnecting the wire harness from the rear right exterior of the oven. Installed new sensor from inside (2screws), plugged it into the harness in the back and reinstalled oven in the cabinet.
old igniter wouldn't get hot enough to allow gas flow
Nothing to it - remove oven bottom, and burner cover, unscrew the 2 scews holding the igniter (one of mine sheared off now only one is holding the new igniter in - it still works) unplug wire at the connector then reverse and the oven is as good as new. The best part is that I received my part in only 2 days.
The oven was inconsistanty lighting and I could not predict when it would. After reading some repair reviews I determined that the problem was most likely the igniter. I purchased one from your site and it arrived the next day. Awsome! Had to take out six screws to get to the wiring and removed the igniter. The wiring was a simple plug. Replaced the igniter in about 20 minutes and the oven has been working flawless every since. THANKS!
I shut the gas off and removed the oven door pulled the oven out and removed the electrical access panel. unpluged the igniter and removed the 2 screws holding the igniter and relpaced repluged. right to self clean mode. Easy job no worrys Be safe check your gas connection!!
Remove oven door, pan drawer, oven racks, bottom pan, flame spreader. Remove valve cover at back of pan drawer. Unplug old igniter. Remove two mounting screws holding igniter to gas tube assembly. Install new igniter, plug it in, and reassemble. Easy as pie! Oven works better than it has for a looooong time! Heats up to 400 in 5 minutes. Wife is happy! :)
The igniter was just glowing and it didn't open the gas valve
I removed the screws and unplugged the connectors and i inserted the new igniter which was glowwing much brighter than the old one which gave me an indication that it has the amount of temperature to open the gas valve.Idid a good job.
First I removed the bottom plate in the oven. The ignitor was located at the rear of the burner and I removed to screws and it was loose except for the two wires. Next I removed the bottom tray from the stove. Two screws held the metal guard in place at the rear of the stove. After removing the plate, I determined which wires belonged to the ignitor, unplugged them at the coupling and pulled the wires out through the bottom of the oven. Replacing the ignitor was simply to reverse the proceedure. PartSelect got the part right out to me, installing the new part was a breeze, and my wife calls me her "hero." This site was a real help and saved me a service/repair bill. Thanks! Fred
I removed the floor of the oven (one screw) and the heat dispersal shield (one wing nut). Then I detached the old igniter using a socket set. I had to remove the bottom drawer to unplug the ignitor and plug in the new one. Then I reassembled. Total piece of cake and I have no experience whatsoever.
Thinking we had a difficult/expensive repair, when the oven stopped working this summer - we just took advantage of the weather and grilled out. Apple season and the desire for fresh baked apple pie motivated us to action. We ordered the part - found simply on the site - it arrived promptly. A screw driver took off the oven bottom, we replaced the igniter and within 15 minutes our oven was working again. Why did we wait so long?
Took the door off the hinges and placed it on the floor. Removed the trim from the oven door. Removed bracket holding broken oven handle on. Using the same bracket, replace the oven handle. Replaced the trim and put oven door back on hinges.
replaced faulty door hinge and installed tip-over bracket to floor
removed door (no tools required - just lift and pull door out of range). removed front door panel with a screwdriver. removed/replaced door hinge with nutdriver. replaced front door panel with screwdriver. replaced door on range (again, no tools required). then installed tip-over bracket to floor/wall behind range. measured location, drilled pilot holes and installed wood screws into the floor and rear wall stud.