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Had an F2 message go off then F3 when I tried to turn the stove on
Unplugged the old temp sensor at the back of the stove. From the inside I removed the 2 retaining screws. I taped a string to the old wire and pulled it through so I could pull the new harness through on the new sensor. When the new sensor arrived I installed it in reverse order. Easy peasy. Works great!!!!
I determined the bake igniter was not working. If the bake ignitor does not work, the sensing unit to turn on the gas does not activate. I examined the bake igniter it was blacked significantly in one spot. There were no apperant cracks in it. I did a web search for the part and ordered it. Three days later it was delivered. Take pictures of each step if you fell the need. Pull stove away from wall turn off the gas, unplug power cord, remove panel in back of stove that covers the electrical, unplug the ignitor/element. Move to the front of the range and remove the oven rack. Remove the cover over burner tubes, it secured with several screws. Remove wing nuts for heat shield. Carefully remove burner tubes along with the attached ignitor/element. You will have to carefully guide the ignitor wires out with the burner tubes. Unscrew ignitor from the burner tube, attach new ignitor/element. Reverse the steps.
F 3 signal on display pad every time oven warmed up
Removed all the racks from inside the oven, unscrewed the 6 screws that held it into the cabinet, pulled it out and sat it on the floor in front of the cabinet. Removed the oven sensor from the inside of the oven after disconnecting the wire harness from the rear right exterior of the oven. Installed new sensor from inside (2screws), plugged it into the harness in the back and reinstalled oven in the cabinet.
unscrewed screws in the back of the stove. inside the stove, replaced the old bake igniter with the new one and connected the electrical wire in the back of the stove.
Terminal block arc'ed because a wire had become loose.
Ordered and received the terminal block. Installed it along with a new 220V power cord and the appropriate insulator . Ensured the terminals were tight with a nut driver. Reinstalled cover. Then, using the control panel, I did a function check on all the heating elements, clock, oven light, to satisfy all operational requirements. All checked good! And, I was relieved that the control panel had not been shorted out as the terminal block was due to a loose connection. Easy fix.
Removed the two screws pulled the element out and unhooked the wires then used one of the included adapters to reinstall the new sensor then screwed the two screws back in to secure the sensor. Everything works fine now.
I took out the old and replaced with the new. The hardest part was getting that tiny halogen bulb in that tiny little hole. It took longer to take the oven racks out and put them back in than to make the repairs.
The top oven of the two oven stove would not heat past 105 degrees.
First, I called Sears who wanted $440.00 to send a tech out to repair the stove. Second, I visited various web sites to find out what the problem was. I watched a brief video on Part Select which showed the repair of the stove. I then checked other parts stores on the web and selected Part Select based on price and video. Installation was very easy just as the video showed. Stove was repaired in less than 30 minutes.
