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Dryer would only heat at start up for one cycle
Ohmed coils and both had continuity so I changed radiant heat sensor. No bench test for Radiant Heat sensor. Same problem. Changed both coils and dryer works fine. Weak coils were my problem. I read thru the same issues in Parts Select forum and it said Radiant Heat sensor was problem 25% of the time. With coils having continuity and no ohm value specified for coils I made wrong choice but, I have spare parts and look for another 10 years of life in the dryer. Nice to have this forum to research appliance repair. Very helpful for parts location and installation. Dishwasher is next!
No heat, would not light because igniter burnt out
Unplug dryer. Remove the front bottom panel of dryer 2 screws, then unplug wire connector to the old igniter then unscrew one screw holding ignitor then wiggle out. Open new igniter wiggle back in place insert screw tighten, (getting this screw back in is a little hard) replug wire connector to new igniter replace front panel with two screws. Plug in dryer and there you go drying clothes again. Wife all happy again.
Thermal fuse was blown so I replaced it. Still no heat. Hi-Limit thermostat and Cycling Thermo. had continuity as did flame sensor. Igniter tested 66ohms. I placed a wire jumper across the Hi-Limit and the igniter glowed, solenoids opened and gas came on. I orderd the Hi-Limit and since both "overheating" limiters were defective I decided to order the cycling thermo just in case. The Hi-Limit was received in 2 days but the Cycling Thermo was backordered. In the meantime my wife got antsy so I went ahead and installed the Hi-Limit and put her back in service... ...for one load. I wasn't certain if I had fried the "limiters" again but since they had continuity and I could measure continuity all the way to the Igniter I decided that it HAD to be the cause. I ignored the flame sensor since it never came into play without the igniter glowing... The igniter arrived and measured 56ohms. Hmmm... After installing the problem was solved. Word of advice: If the thermal fuse is blown and even if all else in the circuit SEEMS ok, go ahead and order the Fuse, Hi-Limit and Cycling Thermos, and the Igniter. It will take you about 30 minutes to install and you'll reduce your out-of-service time! Good luck!
Dryer would not heat up properly. It would heat initially but once the heat was off it would not come on again.
I followed the advice posted by other customers. I took the front off the dryer, put the door back in place and ran a cycle. I could see that the igniter was heating properly, but no gas was flowing. Based on what I read I concluded that it was a problem with one of the gas valve coils. It was relatively inexpensive to replace both (and the dry is 10 years old), so I didn't go to the trouble of determining the bad one. I replaced them both. Obviously I unplugged the dryer (no need to turn off gas). There were 2 screws that held the bracket in place which holds the coils. I disconnected the coils, removed the bracket screws, replaced the coils, reattached the bracket screws and reconnected the coils. I then reattached the front plate to the dryer. It was very easy and took about 20 minutes and I had never worked on a dryer before.
1.Unplugged the connections to dryer door 2. Removed dryer door, front cabinet,popped off the drum belt (this is done by feel),unplugged the drum from cabinet, removed drum, all to get to the gas element inside at the bottom of dryer. 3. Unplugged the connection to the element, then removed unit to get to the burner parts. 4. Replaced the natural gas burner element with the LP gas element. 5. Re assembled dryer and tested. *Note: Actually my son did the work while I read the very easy to follow directions. Since neither of us has disassembled a dryer before, the thought of taking a brand new dryer all apart was more daunting than the actual task.
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Gas dryer would not heat - pilot lit briefly then went off
Same as others. 1. Unplug dryer from power source 2. Use nut driver to remove two front screws at bottom of dryer 3. Disconnect cable connected to Secondary Coil (this is the coil towards the rear of the dryer) 4. Use angled phillips screw driver to loosen screws holding cap on top of the two coils. (Angled tool not required but seemed easiest to me) 5. Slide top cap back towards lock screw to allow coil to be lifted out 6. Remove and replace secondary coil 7. Replace cap, tighten screws to lock in place, reconnect cable to coil 8. Restore power to dryer, test and confirm gas flame stays lit 9. Replace lower front panel on unit
PartsSelect a great resource to use for home repairs like these. My first time using site and doing this type of work, now PartsSelect my first source to go to on such items.
First and Foremost i was told that my problem was with the Thermal Fuse (Fix Ya.com), Then with the little Electrical knowledge I have thought Fuses don't turn on and off,If the fuse was bad i would get No Heat. (Even for a second) Fuses just don't turn on and turn off intermittently,when they go there done! So after a little research i decided to order the gas coil valve. I tilted the top up, two screws on the front panel, took that off and the valves were exposed,(bottom left) two screws too remove bracket then installed new coils on bracket,put back together and I Have Heat Again! NO problems what so ever since new install. I would say having not been for cleaning lint build up inside the machine (been 6 years) the Whole project took me Ten Minutes.
Dryer had no heat at all. This is an older gas dryer.
Cleaned out years of fuzz behind lower access panel and noticed where the igniter sits there is a metal tube about 1 inch in diameter. It had rust on the end and was starting to flake away. Found some helpful hints about how to test the igniter. Very easy, just used an ohmeter. Unplugged the 2 pin wire connector and checked for continuity. 1 lead on 1 pin and the other on the other pin., igniter side not the harness side from the dryer. A good igniter should read less than 5 ohms. I don't know the spec. exacttly, but it should not read open or infinite resistance. My meter read an open circuit. Removed the tube and igniter assembly, mine only 2 small bolts. I found the igniter element cracked. Ordered and installed igniter and tube assembly. This was a very easy install. 20 year old dryer works great and it's better than spending $500.00+ on a new one.
Loud squealing when the dryer was running...especially on start up.
Simply followed the video that accompanied the part confirmation. Removed the top and front of the dryer. Removed the drum and belt. Unbolted (1 bolt) the Idler pulley and bracket and bolted on the new one. Reversed the sequence of disassembly and tried it out. The only minor difficulty was slipping the belt over the idler pulley after the drum was in place. This is where a second set of hands might be helpful to hold up the drum, while the other person puts the belt in place. Other than that, this was a simple repair and probably saved a couple hundred dollars for about 1.5 hours of my time. Thanks for the video...it was right on point, and made the job much easier.
I removed the bottom access panel, with 2 hands i reached in behind the blower, i released the belt, i used a screwdriver to pop the retainer from the pully spindle, i removed and replaced the pully, i snapped the retainer back on and replaced the belt. I made sure the belt was on track and all was good. I put the bottom panel back on, it took all of 5 minutes. The hardest part was the retainer clip faces the rear of the dryer so you have to feel it. Also , the space is tight, use a smaller flathead screwdriver to get behind the clip, it will pop right off.
After opening the bottom access panel, I found a lot of lint build up which is very flammable. I took my leaf blower and cleaned it all out. Then I just followed the instructions that came with the part. But be careful as the igniter is fragile. I broke the first one...
My drier would start create heat,than stop heating after 8-10minutes.
After reading the many different common stories,I replaced both coils (m series).Very simply lifted up the top of driver,held by 2 snap springs and 2 lint vent screws.Removed front cover,2 screws and 2 bottom snaps,coils down on bottom left.r/r both coils,reinstalled covers and let there be heat!This website is a blessing!!
I removed the Drier Door and removed the Front Drier Panel exposing the Gas Valve & associated parts. I removed two (2) screws holding the Gas Valve Coils in place & replaced the 2 terminal coil, then replaced the screws, Front Cover & Drier Door. I liked the results so much, I ordered the other Gas Valve Coil and will replace it also when it arrives.
