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the oven door would not shut all the way, so heat was leaking
The part fit perfectly.Ther repair was logic. The door was of course heavy . I needed an extra hand. I would have appreciated of instructions were included with the part. Also a web link on how to do it would alos have helped greatly
After the repair I determined that the door did not need to be removed from the stove. The top 3 screws needed to be taken out, the front clase needed to be slid out by pushing it right to left or left to right. Then the bracket that held the inside screw assembly needed to be removed. The new handle needed to be installed and the bracets put back into place. The front glass needed to be reinstalled right to left or left to right. The hardest part of my install was putting door back on the range, the hinges kept popping out of place before setting into the range. The best way to replace the hangle would be to not remove the door from the range.
I received my glass panel realy quick from Part Select. It was an eansy job to install the new pane. It took less than an hour. Thanks for Your prompt service.
A friend helped me to fix it. First I removed the door from the oven itself. Next, we unscrewed the four screws from the glass holder at the bottom of the door and removed it. Next, we straightened out the glass holder, as it was slightly bent up from the front glass shattering. Next, we slid the glass into the door. Finally, we reinstalled the door to the oven. Voila! It was like brand new again.
First I cut electric power off removed the two screws that hold glass top lifted up and removed two screws that hold element in place. I disonnected the wires and then pulled the element out
Element was sent by buyer, As they recommended, when model of stove given to them. It was upper right rear. When element came. First took off old element. ...Match both element , new element did not look exactly the same, small variation. It did not come on.. I moved old element from left side to right side . Old element worked on both side .. tried new element on left side also.. still didn't work.. so I called right away and explained.. new element did not work.. not defective, but, just wasn't the right one.. I had a specialist came and check it out also. I was told wrong element.
Removed cooktop, wiring and coil. Marked where wires went on limiter tabs. Ordered coil 1200 Watt, received a 1500 one. Sent back to PS with prepaid shipping label {great}. New one had a different limiter tab arrangement. The instructions included warned this but doesn't tell you where to put the wiring. Instructions say to remove the old limiter and put it on the new coil but this can not be physically be done plus who would want an old limiter on a new coil. Found a YOU TUBE video on how to test and place wires on limiter switches which shows the number letter sequence on the ceramic part. Maybe PS will put that info in their instructions. Coil works great !!
1) Remove 4 screws under front control panel. (Oven door needs to be open.) 2) Remove 2 flat head screws on sides of control panel. This will loosen control panel. Capture control panel to keep from hanging from wires/connectors. I used hooks made from a wire hanger. 3) Remove 2 screws to remove two steel panels on either side of stove. 4) Remove rear screw of the 2 front screws now exposed and 2 rear screws near top of stove. 5) Carefully flip over glass top being careful not to pull on the wires. 6) Identify burner to be replaced. Note 2 numbers where two clamps are attached to burner. 7) Using 3/8” nut driver, remove screws to allow removal of burner. Remove wires per included instructions. Remove burner. 8) Place new burner under clamps and align to the holes by the two numbers noted in step 6 above. 9) Connect wires to new burner as per included instructions. 10) Reverse removal steps.
Went well. Husband, who has some appliance repair experience, did repair in less than a hour. Replacement burner was not an exact duplicate of original but he was able to adjust for that.
I installed the new oven sensor but the problem continued. So I ordered a new relay board and installed it. Still no luck. So I pulled the new board back out and started trouble shooting it using my electronic background. I discovered the new board was using a pin for L2 that had no exit on the backplane, so I removed it and installed it where I believed it should go. Reinstalled the power relay board and presto. My oven is working lie a champ. Louis
