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Clothes were not drying on auto sensor.
Followed standard instructions regarding removal of top first & then the front panels. Realized after following this process that I did not have to remove top, but only one of front panels to obtain access to moisture sensor. If I have to do this again, the replacement of sensor will be much easier.
Door catch on dryer broke and would not capture the door.
I watched the video, took a knife and released the outer catches on the stainless steel spring clip, but part of the broken catch was inside the clip crossways and would not let the clip come out. I had a set of hook shaped picks (from Harbor Freight) and I tried to pull out the broken piece, but it fell inside the door. I was then able to pull out the spring steel clip, and push the new part in and it caught. I left the broken parts inside the door, thinking it would not hurt anything. Door latches OK now.
The first thing I did was to watch the video from Part select on How to change thermostat cut off switch and the high limit thermostat fuse.I did not have a meter reader I just brought the thermostat cut off kit for about $ 32.00 dollars from part select and replace both part's and my dryer still was not getting hot so back to part select video's I looked up the video on replacing the heater element and I ordered one for about $ 97.00 with shipping I replaced it and put it back together and it worked it took just a few hours . I would like to give Avery special thank to part select for the video help and for having the parts for a great price again thank you so much.
Opened up front bottom of dryer (4 x 1/4" socket screws); removed existing wires and marked location; remove front bracket of heating element (2 x 1/4" socket screws); removed heating element tube; remove sensors and screws to tube; replace with new heating element and sensors; put tube back into place; reattached bracket and connections.
Dryer is on a pedestal. Opened drawer and removed two 1/4 inch screws on bottom panel of dryer front. Panel drops down and exposes the dryer exhaust where thermistor is located. Removed two spade connector wires and removed two 1/4 inch screws. Installed new thermistor and reversed procedure. For the moisture sensors I used a phillps screwdriver and stuck my head in the dryer and removed the lint screen assembly (3 screws). Removed the spade wire connectors and used a straight blade screw driver to remove the moisture sensor. Installed the new sensor and re-installed the lint screen assembly in the reverse of removal. All very easy - just took 30-45 minutes total.
Watched steve on the video on changing the thermistor a couple times, it appeared to be straight forward replacement. Unplugged the dryer. . . Went through the front, my lent filter slides in and out from the lid so I had too remove two extra screws to detach it. After opening up the front it became very apparent my thermistor was not located in the same location as the one in the video. Dryer needed a cleaning (lint/dust) so I released the idler pully tension on the drum belt and went ahead and removed the drum/belt and shop vac/ blew with compressed air and shop vac once again. Gave my dryer a much needed cleaning since I had it apart. Put everything back together in about 20 mins. Pulled the dryer away from the wall and removed rear cover and presto there it was right next to the dryer air outlet. Replaced thermistor and replaced back cover, inspected out flex hose on dryer outlet, I clean it out (flex) yearly to prevent problems. Reattached flex on both ends, re-positioned dryer, plugged back in, and works great! Definitely fixed my problem. . . Replacing the drum by myself was a bit difficult. Still do able (there's a video on that also. . )
Felt liner on lint screen falls out replaced once from Whirlpool
My front- loading dryer is 4 years old and lint screen felt liner never lasted long without falling out. When I received my Part Select I knew the quality surpasses manufacture screen. It is so much better and we are your new customers forever Thank you Cheryl
Door catch does not come as easy as the video shows.
The catch did not just slip out. I had to take door apart and then still had a tough time getting the latch out. I had to pry it out with a screw driver. It did not just slip out the front like some people said.
The door catch assembly is designed to slide into a hole stamped in the sheet metal. Normally, the repair only requires the use of pliers to grasp the top and bottom of the catch, compressing them enough to slide the catch out of the door. The new catch can be inserted through the hole and snapped into place the same way. In my case, the catch was a very tight fit, so I had to remove the door from the dryer, remove the screws that hold the outside and inside door sections together, replace the damaged door catch, reassemble and re-mount the door. Having to do that increased the completion time for a simple repair that would normally take less than five minutes.
The rubber seal on the Cabrio dryer door came off.
Clean the old seal area. I let it dry for a couple hours, just to be safe. Rubber gloves, I applied the adhesive to the door all away around the seal molding space. Then inserted the rubber seal. Going around with my finger pushing the seal tightly into place. Let dry over night and the next day I closed the dry and let it finish drying. Then came the washing day and the dryer worked like a charm.
