If you are cursed with owning a Maytag product then you'll be glad PartSelet.com is in business. I get all my parts here.
My dryer motor burnt a phase. The tear down was very straight forward since there isn't much to a dryer. I did the tear down in the driveway. The dryer was full of lint so I blasted it with compressed air to clean it up. Keep all your parts in labeled baggies as you do the tear down. Reassembly goes much faster. The hardest part about changing the motor was getting the motor clips off. They are tough buggers. I used slip-joint pliers & finally popped them off. This job is simply enough for the average monkey. Just use the diagrams on partselect.com if you forget where something goes.
I shipped everything via fedex 2-day. It took 5 days to get here. partselect shipped it fast. fedex was the problem. I guess the boys at fedex have a public education is they think 5=2.
It was very simple. I removed the fromt cover on the dryer. The heating element was easy to get to and after removing all the attached wires and 4 nuts. The new element was installed, reattached the wire correctly and put the screws back in place. It was extremely easy to complete.
First, I unplugged the dyer and then I removed all of the screws for the panel that covers the rear of the dryer. This exposed the cycling thermostat's location. I then removed the wires, one at a time so I would be able to put them back on in the same place. Then I removed the one screw using a nut driver and then put the new cycling thermostat in place. It was pretty easy.
Ohmed coils and both had continuity so I changed radiant heat sensor. No bench test for Radiant Heat sensor. Same problem. Changed both coils and dryer works fine. Weak coils were my problem. I read thru the same issues in Parts Select forum and it said Radiant Heat sensor was problem 25% of the time. With coils having continuity and no ohm value specified for coils I made wrong choice but, I have spare parts and look for another 10 years of life in the dryer. Nice to have this forum to research appliance repair. Very helpful for parts location and installation. Dishwasher is next!
loosened two screws on back of top,lifted top away from front panel.it just lifts off front corners,removed two screws at top corners.lift front panel up and out,this panel supports dryer tub,remove slowly,unplug door switch parts are located left side bottom two screws holding in had to have wife hold drum up to put front panel on
A year or so ago I replaced one drum wheel. The dryer worked fine for months until it started sqeaking again. When I removed the wheels again the shaft was no longer round but half moon shaped. this allowed the drum to drop lower than it's supposed to. consequently the drum ate through the back drum support. I replaced the back drum support and the roller shafts, in addition to two new rollers. It works great now. The more difficult part of the repair was replacing the rear drum support. It is screwed in from the back and requires two people. Everything else I did by myself. The lesson: If you replace the rollers, be sure the roller shafts are not worn. An asymetric shaft eventually causes more parts to wear out.
Dryer would not heat up properly. It would heat initially but once the heat was off it would not come on again.
I followed the advice posted by other customers. I took the front off the dryer, put the door back in place and ran a cycle. I could see that the igniter was heating properly, but no gas was flowing. Based on what I read I concluded that it was a problem with one of the gas valve coils. It was relatively inexpensive to replace both (and the dry is 10 years old), so I didn't go to the trouble of determining the bad one. I replaced them both. Obviously I unplugged the dryer (no need to turn off gas). There were 2 screws that held the bracket in place which holds the coils. I disconnected the coils, removed the bracket screws, replaced the coils, reattached the bracket screws and reconnected the coils. I then reattached the front plate to the dryer. It was very easy and took about 20 minutes and I had never worked on a dryer before.
Verified timer as faulty with use of schematic and ohmmeter, Element, motor switch, and thermostats within specs, no continuity on pink/black timer leads on any cycle. First remove the back cover consisting of three phillips screws and two 1/4" hex head sheet metal screws. Then pull timer knob straight off and subsequently remove the two 1/4 " hex head self-tapping machine screws. Then remove each spade terminal, one at a time, connecting them to the terminals on the new timer. Note- the timer has the wire colors imprinted on the body if you do not replace one at a time. Reverse the above procedure for assembly, noting the position of the timer knob will align with the "keyed" shaft.
After taking one last look through the access port prior to ripping the back off the dryer in order to access the heat exchanger fuse, I noticed I had inadvertantly un-plugged the gas solenoid. I reapplied the plugs to the solenoid and, voila, I had flame.
I am thankful to know I have a source in case I encounter other appliance problems, though. This one was a no-brainer but the next one might be more difficult. Thank you.
1 - unscrewed door 2 - made a mess because the directions did not work for my dryer 3 - figured it out = eventually 4 - popped loose the front panel 5 - unscrewed metal bars (that were holding the top down in the front) 6 - lift front like a hood on a car 7 - unscrew the rest of the front until the drum was loose and I could get to the felt strip 8 - glue new strip on where the old strip was = to the front and back plates that hold the drum 9 - put it back together :)
Took off the four screws to get to the female clip and used pliers to squeeze it out. Next was using pliers to pinch out the male connector and place the new one in.
