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After the first flame the flame would not come back on
Turned out to be the primary coil on the gas valve. If you remove the cover of the coils and wait for the dryer to try to start the flame the coils are energized, a magnet is turned on. By lifting the coil you should feel the magnet if the flame is on. If the flame does not come on after the ignitor fires check to see if the coils are energized. If not buy the set, it's cheaper then purchasing them separately.
Sensor is in the front lower left. Gas off, electicity off. Removed two screws for the filter, pry/lifted the top up and taped it too the overhead cabinet, removed two screws inside top of front panel, lifted pandel with door closed staight off. Two screws to remove the flame sensor braket. unplug the old sensor install the new one and reverse everything. With others suggestions I purchased temperature switches etc. but the radiant flame sensor was the problem. I now have some spare switches for future. Excellent company and very quick service. Oh, Sears wanted 200.00 just for the service call, I live rural.
Ohmed coils and both had continuity so I changed radiant heat sensor. No bench test for Radiant Heat sensor. Same problem. Changed both coils and dryer works fine. Weak coils were my problem. I read thru the same issues in Parts Select forum and it said Radiant Heat sensor was problem 25% of the time. With coils having continuity and no ohm value specified for coils I made wrong choice but, I have spare parts and look for another 10 years of life in the dryer. Nice to have this forum to research appliance repair. Very helpful for parts location and installation. Dishwasher is next!
loosened two screws on back of top,lifted top away from front panel.it just lifts off front corners,removed two screws at top corners.lift front panel up and out,this panel supports dryer tub,remove slowly,unplug door switch parts are located left side bottom two screws holding in had to have wife hold drum up to put front panel on
A year or so ago I replaced one drum wheel. The dryer worked fine for months until it started sqeaking again. When I removed the wheels again the shaft was no longer round but half moon shaped. this allowed the drum to drop lower than it's supposed to. consequently the drum ate through the back drum support. I replaced the back drum support and the roller shafts, in addition to two new rollers. It works great now. The more difficult part of the repair was replacing the rear drum support. It is screwed in from the back and requires two people. Everything else I did by myself. The lesson: If you replace the rollers, be sure the roller shafts are not worn. An asymetric shaft eventually causes more parts to wear out.
Dryer would not heat up properly. It would heat initially but once the heat was off it would not come on again.
I followed the advice posted by other customers. I took the front off the dryer, put the door back in place and ran a cycle. I could see that the igniter was heating properly, but no gas was flowing. Based on what I read I concluded that it was a problem with one of the gas valve coils. It was relatively inexpensive to replace both (and the dry is 10 years old), so I didn't go to the trouble of determining the bad one. I replaced them both. Obviously I unplugged the dryer (no need to turn off gas). There were 2 screws that held the bracket in place which holds the coils. I disconnected the coils, removed the bracket screws, replaced the coils, reattached the bracket screws and reconnected the coils. I then reattached the front plate to the dryer. It was very easy and took about 20 minutes and I had never worked on a dryer before.
After taking one last look through the access port prior to ripping the back off the dryer in order to access the heat exchanger fuse, I noticed I had inadvertantly un-plugged the gas solenoid. I reapplied the plugs to the solenoid and, voila, I had flame.
I am thankful to know I have a source in case I encounter other appliance problems, though. This one was a no-brainer but the next one might be more difficult. Thank you.
The SE1000 (washer/dryer combo) dryer stop working and I checked the error code: 8E, which indicated a motor/relay circuit problem. I replaced the relay but I still have the problem. I'll have to check the motor but I think it's not available anymore. The belt is OK. The unit is 25 years old so it doesn't owe me anything. The washer still works.
First I put the square female end iof the door catch kit nto the square hole as snug as I could. Then I gently pushed the door against the piece until I heard it click in to place. That's it!! Sooooo simple--
removed dryer door 4 screws removed front panel removed front tumbler bracket removed blower cover removed wires attached to heat and door sensors removed top removed drum and belt removed side panel removed clamp holding idler pulley replaced pulley and clamp reversed above steps
Gas dryer would not heat - pilot lit briefly then went off
Same as others. 1. Unplug dryer from power source 2. Use nut driver to remove two front screws at bottom of dryer 3. Disconnect cable connected to Secondary Coil (this is the coil towards the rear of the dryer) 4. Use angled phillips screw driver to loosen screws holding cap on top of the two coils. (Angled tool not required but seemed easiest to me) 5. Slide top cap back towards lock screw to allow coil to be lifted out 6. Remove and replace secondary coil 7. Replace cap, tighten screws to lock in place, reconnect cable to coil 8. Restore power to dryer, test and confirm gas flame stays lit 9. Replace lower front panel on unit
PartsSelect a great resource to use for home repairs like these. My first time using site and doing this type of work, now PartsSelect my first source to go to on such items.
Took off the four screws to get to the female clip and used pliers to squeeze it out. Next was using pliers to pinch out the male connector and place the new one in.
