MCE8000AYQ Maytag Dryer - Instructions

I took the back of my dryer off to see if the problem was there. I saw that the belt was broken and laying on the inside of the dryer. Took belt and went on line (Google) my KitchenAid Dryer from it's model number. The website was PartSelect. Found the belt I needed and saw a video on how to replace the belt. I called to order the belt and spoke to Steve, which help me with all my needs. Steve knew just the belt I was looking for and placed my order. The belt arrived a few days later. While I was waiting for the belt to come in, I removed the front of the dryer and get ready for reinstall. It took me about 15 minutes to install the belt and put the front of the dryer back together. I found PartSelect to be very helpful and saved me, maybe $150.00 by not having to call a serviceman to do the easy replacement. Thank you Steve and PartSelect, now I'm number 1 with the wife again.

Pull dryer out from wall about 6 to 8 inches step 1 - romove front/bottom access panel. Step 2 - remove lint trap and remove 2 screws (philips type) that is under lint trap door. Step 3 - push in 2 wood shime in front edge between lid and front panel (angled shims like door shims - a putty knife will work to, just be carful not to scratch finish) step 4 - fold lid upward and back (like on a hinge) step 5 - looking from where the bottom/front acces panel was losten 2 screws - one left one right about 3 turns - 9you can remove them it just makes it easier to reinstall the front panel. Step 6 - find appropriate pot or stacked 2 x 4 pieces - something to hold up the drum when you remove th front cover, and from underneeth support the drum. Step 7 - look thru bottm front access hole - there are 2 springs that come down from the door - and clip onto the frame of the fryer - unclip them and place on the side. Step 8 - remove 2 upper screws that hold front panel on, and remove front panel, if you left the bottom screws attached but loosened you have to lift up on the front panel a bit. Step 9 - looking from the bottom thru where access panel was - you will see motor on right with a additional roller (tensioner) - push upwards on tensioner to relieve pressure on motor and pop off belt (remember where tensioner is and how it clips in to base. Step 10 - work belt off of drum towars front - to remove it all the way you will have to lift up the drum slightly off of the pot or whatever you used for support so the belt can clear. Stem 11 - new belt goes on the same way you took to old one off - plat side away from drum with ribs against drum. Step 12 - again lift up on drum and work belt back on. Step 13 - tricky part is how to get the belt back on the motor - prentend you are threading a needle wht a folded over piece of thread - hold the belt with about a 4" loop with your left hand - hold up on tensioner and feed it back thru and work belt back over end of motor pulley, after front panel is back on with the 4 screws tightened spin the drum and make sure belt is between the 2 lines marked on the drum and remove the pot or whatever u used to prop up the drum. Dont forget to attach the springs for the door assemble all other components in reverse order. And dont forget to take the pot back out

I removed the lint trap then the dryer cover from top and front side. I placed the belt around the dryer drum being sure to put it on the correct side with the grid side against drum. I coiled the belt around the pulley and motor tract. Replaced everything in opposite order in which it was removed.
Video from website was very informative and helpful. I was able to follow along step-by-step to replace the dryer drum belt. I am officially a do-it-your-selfer!!!

Took two screws out of the Lint tray on top. remove to bolts from under hood then put new belt on. Always make sure there are no twists in belt when put back on

I watch the video and played it again while I was working.
I am a 54 year young woman and I did it.

I watched the video on replacing the belt and it was amazingly as easy as the video described. I had asked my son if he could replace it if I couldn't and I didn't have to ask him. If you are only moderately ept at repairing anything you could do this. I was waiting on it when it finally arrived and in no time I had it replaced and my dryer back working. Being a woman I like it when I can repair something myself and not have to rely on someone else to do it.

The repair was pretty simple.
1. unplug dryer.
2. use a med. flat screw driver with some cloth wrapped around the blade as not to chip the paint surface. From the front of the dryer,
carefully pry open the top surface of the dryer. There are 2 points to lift, about 3" from the right side and 3" from the left side.
3. The top will open like the the hood of a car, lift gently, you might have to move the dryer out if you can (if you are on a flexible service connection).
4. Unclip the push bottom elec. switch.
5. Carefully remove 2 sheet metal screws on the top left and top right (from the inside of the dryer cabinet. These hold the front of the dryer in place. You have to remove the front of the dryer to get the drum out. I can't believe that these 2 flimsy screws hold the dryer together.
6. Pull the front panel off, tipping it forward. More on this later, it's really important!!
7. Remove the drum, it's light weight, but bulky.
8. Now you will see the motor assembly and idle pulley.
9. Follow the belt diagram with the replacement belt package.
10. It gets a little tricky to get the drum back in because there's a bit of spring tension on the drum from the belt.
11. You're ready to re assemble. BUT, the next step is really important.
12. Since you have the front panel off, you can get at the lint trap. Yeah, lint. Ever wonder why your favorite Tee shirt gets thinner and thinner? Well, look in the lint trap. I filled a vacum cleaner bag with the hard packed lint.
13. By the way, you have to remove the 2 torx screws that hold the lint trap assembly.
14. Vacuum the whole exhaust pipe while u are at it.
That's it!

I replaced it

Unplugged the 220 line, removed lint cover, (2 screws). Lifted top with a screw driver, (2 plastic fasteners) then unplugged a ground line at the front lip to separate the front panel. There was a 50/50 chance here that I would not put the wires back correctly, didn't not make note of the color differences. There was no lower panel, just a single panel on the front, which I first tried to remove like the top, but quickly saw no results, then lifted the panel easily, which I set aside. I rested the drum on a 4x4 piece of wood. I then slipped the new belt over the drum, aligned the bulkhead at the rear, and positioned the belt in the original position, there was a distinct mark showing this. Next I saw the idler pulley lying on it's side, hmm, thought this might take some time, but the illustrated instructions were very accurate, reset the pulley, pushed it toward the motor and doubled the belt around the pulley, it sort of felt right, according to the grooves on the floor panel. I then rotated the drum counter clockwise, then tested. It worked! Became a hero to my wife and found $1.86 in change, woo hoo! Total cost, including shipping under $20., two day delivery, amazing. Thanks.

The dryer was not difficult to repair. The diagram that came with the belt made the repair easy. The repair part came in a very timely manner.

DISCONNECT THE POWER. Double check the dryer is unplugged. Use a putty knife to free the latches holding the top of the dryer in place. Lift up the top of the dryer and secure it in place (be sure it's safely held open and won't come crashing down onto yourself as you work). Remove the two screws on the inside and near the top of the dryer, which hold the front and side panels. Gently lift up on the front panel (it may help to open the dryer door to get a better grip). Once free from the bottom clips, carefully rotate the front panel so that the door sensor wires are not strained. Once the front panel is out of the way, grab the drum and firmly lift it up and away from the back. (The drum has rollers and ridges at the rear and you'll need to pull the drum out of its "track"). Slide the new belt around the drum and position the drum about halfway inside the dryer. Loop the belt around the motor, but not the tensioner, (it will be easier to install the drum if you wait to tension the belt). With the belt around the motor, gently slide the drum back keeping the belt around the motor pulley. Press and guide the drum back onto the rollers at the rear. Check the belt is positioned correctly around the drum and motor. Reach back from the front and loop the belt around the tensioner. Rotate the drum by hand and make sure the belt is aligned and the drum spins smoothly. Position the front panel and slide it onto the lower clips. Install the screws being very careful not to drop them into the abyss... Close the lid and plug in the power.

Tested the thermostat (s), all were good used self diagnostic on dryer to see actual temps over 190. Used schematics to see the low temp relay might be the problem, tested the relays and found 1of 3 was open circuit. Ordered part, then plug and play. The relay was energizing the heater regardless of cycle whenever dryer was rotating.

First off, the hub is a tight fit. If the fan barely fits the shaft, but doesn't go on all the way, do not try to enlarge the hub. Lightly lubricated the motor shaft and the inside of the new factory correct fan wheel with a small amount of very soapy water or similar lube.
Then placed a socket against the face of plastic hub and LIGHTLY tapped fan wheel into place until fully seated.
Install the old retaining clip.
That's it.

Pretty much just followed the video - I'd never opened a dryer before, so I'd watch a step, pause and do it, then run the video a few more minutes, and repeat. These dryers are really extremely simple devices: just a heater, then a motor to spin the drum and run the fan (I think the same motor does both). So you loosen a couple of screws, pry the metal case open, and slip on the new belt. Done! I didn't keep track of time, but I'm psyched to have saved myself a $200 repair call! Standard delivery arrived in less than two days, just like they said it would.

This should have been a very simple repair...replace the blower wheel.

However the replacement blower wheel was WAY too tight on the motor shaft. I was able to open the flat of the blower wheel hole with a 1/4 inch wood chisel..it went on with hammering and and a deep well socket.

I believe the replacement wheel was meant for the replacement motor.
The older style motor is no longer available, and I had no intentions of replacing it.

This was a way more involved repair than it should have been...After doing the repair, I noticed several reviews on this wheel stating the same problem.