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washer was squeeling to a stop
first remove drive belt then then remove dust cover on bottom of shaft take 5/16 nut driver to only 4 of the screws off that hold the brake cover on install 4 5/16 screws 1" long in those 4 spots.reomve rest of screws then slowly reomve back out 1" screws to relve spring pressure from brake pad.install all new parts from partsselect.com then install other part taken off in oreder and make your wife very happy
I didn’t have special tool for brake but punch and hammer worked. Seal was easy to replace. Several videos online to show you how. It wasn’t worth it to tear apart the transmission and buy more parts/seals (if they were even available). But I didn’t know how much oil was in it. I drilled a hole in the side to somewhat check level and added 80-90 gear oil. It was almost empty and added almost a quart. Used a self taping screw/bolt with gasket sealer to plug the hole. I got 34 yrs out of this washer. If it fails, oh well. Just hate to buy a new one that only last 10yrs if im lucky.
I removed three small bolts on the back of top panel unpluged electric plug on lid switch popped out old switch popped in new plugged in switch put top back on with the three small bolts. The wife was back in business. Easy as 1 2 3
Front legs came off while moving causing cycle pulley to rub on the floor.
Removed damaged pulley installed new pullley and clutch. The directions made it easy. Aligned pulley as detailed and installed new front feet and tested washer. Took me about 30 minutes to repair. Washer has been working since. Thanks guys for a nice no nonsense package.
Simple remove and replace. Plastic cam and hinges simply snap out, replacement parts snap right back in. Needle nose pliers were helpful to remove broken lid cam. With hinges and lid removed, took advantage of great opportunity to clean lid and and top of washer.
I first took the fabric softener dispenser off and used a ratchet wrench to take the nut off. I then removed the agitator, put the new one on and reversed the process. It was extremely easy!
Took off the top rear off the washer, Removed the top control section,disconnected the wire harness, snaped out the old switch and installed the new one, connected the wire harness, put everything back together, and it was working again!
I opened up the top of the washer which exposed the tub, I took the top ring off the tub and under in side of the ring is the seal. Took the old one out and put the new one in. The old seal was completely wore out. It was real easy. Finding the part is usually the hardest part, but thanks to Parts Select finding the part was the easiest part of the repair.
iremove the two screws that is on the lid and then ipulled that out then secound step remove the part is on the back were is the suit of the washer machine were is the hoses of the water hot and cold its berry easy to do it your self thank you
I think normally the problem is caused by the Brake Rotor Lining Assy (item #50 on the diagram). It has a brake lining facing down that makes contact with item # 51. It turned out that I had grease & grime on these parts, thus the brake is not taking grip & causing squeaky noise. All I had to do was to clean the parts & put them back. I bought the part (#50) - P/N 2347192, but it was a whirlpool part that didn't fit my Magic Chef. Some parts fit both brands, but this 1 didn't. Here is the procedure:
1. Unplug washer. 2. Move unit away from wall. 3. Tilt it back far enough to work underneath. Support the front with lumber. 4. Pull out cap (#58) 5. Remove ring clip (#57) 6. slide out everything from #53 down. Keep them in same order for re-installation. 7. There are 6 ea screws (#53) that hold item #52 to item #45. It is spring loaded by item #47. Item #53 has a 5/16" hex head. Use 3 ea. #10-24 hex head screw, at least 1.25" long to assist in compress/decompress the spring tension. You can buy them from a hardware store. 8. Take out every other screw (#53) & replace them with these 3 longer screws for remove/re-installation of item #52. 9. Take out the remaining 3 ea #52 screws. 10. Go around & back off each of the 3 longer screws to decompress the spring. 11. Remove item #52, & everything from #48 down will come out. 12. Clean or replace what you need. 13. Do the reverse to put everything back. 14. There is an item within #59 that looks like a miniature bearing. I would put some grease on that & on item #55.
Disconnect electricity....remove front panel by gently prying up lid.... Remove two small screws at corners of front panel. You may need small nutdriver here or very small hands, you can easily swivel tub out of the way....once front panel is off water pump is at the bottom right... It is only connected by two squeeze clamps and 3 nuts... This is obviously where the adjustable wrench and nutdriver come in very handy... Otherwise this job will be a bit longer....be prepared for residual water to pour out...you will need towels or a bucket....replace old with new one by reversing the process...at this point tilt the entire washer on it's backside or at least at a 45 degree angle to access the bottom... Swivel the motor away to slack up the belt...remove belt and replace in reverse order of diassembling.... Should take no more than 15 minutes.... Good luck!!!!!
Switch not correctly mounted by the previous technician.
Switch material hardened due to old age & broke easily when force fitted. Ordered parts online & in two business day it arrived.
First open the lid & removed the side latch with screw driver carefully. Checked the length of the new plunger with the old one with respect to length & compare the stroke. Slide fit the switch & rectified the play in the plunger pusher with super glue.
Replace the motor in 25 minutes, my repair guy said it was not worth the time , I got this motor for less than $150. And save my self over $600.00, this was incredible.