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Tub was slamming side of tub during spin cycle and getting all out of balance
Took the cabinet apart really easily with Part Selects helpful video. Removed old suspension springs by removing outer brackets on two of them and by using pliers on the third one. The tub spring was totally missing. Put on two new brackets and springs with the nut driver. Then stretched the third spring into place. Replaced the tub spring by stretching into place and then put cabinet back together. All done very quickly!!! Now it works perfectly and runs very quietly.
First, unplug the unit. Remove the two screws on each side of the control panel on the back. They are located at the top corners of the unit. The base is held on by clips you press in on from the bottom. You will have to reach in over the tub and press in on clips, one each on the far side. At the left, you will be able to feel the lid switch, the clip is just to the left of the switch. It is about ½ inch wide, press firmly with your thumb. You may want to wear glove for this unless you like battle scars. Once done the control panel should hinge up. The switch is on the left side. To remove the switch, I first detached the wire harness to the control panel and unscrewed the grounding wire. Open the lid and the switch pulls right out. The new switch drops right in. Attach the wire harness and grounding wire. Place the control panel back side first at an angle making sure the back metal panel is lined up, once in place it should snap back in place when pressed down firmly. You might have to reach in over the tub again and pull the clip down (keep Band-Aids on hand). Plug the unit back in and you are good to go. Raise and close the lid, you should here the switch click on and off.
Broken lid switch. The BIG problem was trying to figure out how to remove the control panel. There was no screws on the back top corners nor two screws at the bottom corners. The front end caps was not removal either. Finally I found on the internet that if you slide a putty knife under front corner of the control panel you can push back the spring clip on each that will allow the panel to be removed and lifted up. From there the lid switch is located on the left side and is easy to replace from this point forward. You can read other instructions on details on replacing the lid switch.
Follow the video to remove the cabinet. Did NOT have to lay the unit on its back in order to replace all 5 springs. These may be easily replaced with the washer standing upright. The back Suspension Spring was removed by using the access hole in the back of the washer to remove the screw holding the back spring bracket in place. Reassembled the cabinet per the video. Except for moving the washer around, this was an extremely easy repair. To facilitate moving the washer - use Moving PADS placed under the 4 feet of the washer.
Machine wobbled during spin cycle. Appeared to have some loosened part in the rear of the machine (noted some flexing on the front of the cabinet during spin).
Disconnected electrical and then water inputs on the rear of the cabinet. Tipped the machine onto its front. Found that a spring was unhooked and dangling from a bracket. I searched for the location to secure the spring and found a hole on the rear base of the cabinet rusted through. I drilled another mounting hole nearby, Since the original spring had also broke, I replaced it with a new one from PartSelect, securing it between its bracket and the new retaining hole. Returned the machine to its upright position, reconnected water input lines, then its electrical. The machine works fine once again.
Washer stopped running. Would fill water and stop.
Unplugged washer, took out screws that held on the dial panel, lifted dial panel, disconnected the ground wire, released the clip, lifted the lid which released the switch. Installed new switch closed the lid which holds it in place set the clip connected ground wire reattached dial panel secured it with the screws, plugged the washer back in and I was on my way the conquer that pile of laundry that had built up.
The Lid Switch Broke And The Washer Stopped Working.
First, I moved the washer with water in it from the wall. Then, I removed two screws with a phillip head screwdriver from the back cover to the controls. Then I used a little bitty wrench to remove two small bolts that also held the back cover of the controls to the rest of the washer. The control panel was all attached, so it had to lay forward on the washer to remove the broken lid switch and then to install the new lid switch. There was one screw that I removed with a phillip head screwdriver. I removed the broken part and placed the new part into the hole. Then I had to move the control panel with limited space to lift the lid of the washer; the part would not fit property without lifting the lid. Once it fit into place, I closed the lid and replaced the screws and bolts. It worked beautifully. Thank you for your online help and the remarks from other people who had previously fix this lid switch.
It was actually much easier than I expected. The worst part was dealing with the gear oil as I drained it to clean out the plastic pieces that came off the gear. To see how to fix things like this, I went to Google, enter my model and what the problem was and watched a repairman do it. It seemed easy and it was.
Replaced the lid switch by pulling the washer out enough to gain access. Not necessary to disconnect the waster hoses. Remove the two screws from the white plastic tabs on the rear of the control panel. Also remove the two screws connecting the control panel from the washer body. Lift the lid slightly and pull the control panel forward. Disconnect the pug into the lid switch and remove the switch. Replace the switch but remember to lift the lid while doing so. Lid has a small arm that must engage the switch correctly. Replace the control panel and reinstall the screws. Repair is very simple.
well my Dearest Kenmore washer was vibrating badly so i looked the part in yoursite of parts select it diagnosed it i ordered the 2 different supension pads relaced then and now my Dearest kemore washer works like new again Thankyou Parts select for all your help and the price was perfect...
I was in need of a second washer to wash heavily soiled clothes my daughter in law younger sister was throwing one away so I asked what was wrong with it and was told it wouldn't spin so I thought it would be an easy fix I brought the washer home did a quick check and with the internet guide I was able to determine the problem I ordered the part and thank god once the part arrived I was able to do the repair within minutes now I have a second washer to due heavily soiled clothes and no more trips to the laundry mat thanks a million to your step by step guide couldn't have done it with out you
lid switch was intermittant for awhile befor finnaly quiting..Unplugged machine from elec. then removed four screws on back of instrument/dial panel...lifted the panel and located switch on left side...unplugged switch and removed screw from ground wire..removed switch...ckd part # and ordered part....part arrived on 2nd day after ordering...installed new switch...plugged switch back in..connected ground wire....replaced panel installed four screws... plug machine into receptical and ran a cycle to test. everything working fine.. I tested continuity of the old switch ..it was fine the problem was with the plastic spring that holds the switch in the slot...and allowed it to move thus not allowing the contacts to close. ground wire screw and two of the other screws required a nut driver..the other two crews required a phillips head screwdriver...10-15 min to remove switch and order...less than 10 min to replace switch and put the panel back on. location of my washer allowed me to work on it without moving it...if it is backed up to a wall..it will have to be moved enough to reach the screws on the back.
washer filled with water but would not wash, spin or drain
Used part PS886960. Simple process to replace - removed the two screws and flipped the part that houses the controls/electrical over. The switch was easily accessable. When changing out the switch the wire inside the old connector had previously gotten hot and bonded inside the plastic. Had to use a pair of pliers to separate. Then there was part of the copper piece still stuck in the connector. Used a drill to remove the bonded piece and jammed the two fittings together. Washer is repaired and working fine. Should have taken about 10 minutes to change the switch but required about 30 total.
Parts Select is outstanding..They diagnosed the problem quickly..The part was sent within 2 days and we were washing laundry the 3rd afternoon...THANKS!!!!!!
