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Drum not agitating all the time
Removed front door from washer lifted front of washer off floor and removed belt’s put washer back on floor Removed motor and slide Cleaned and replaced slides and greased put back in washer secured Then lifted front of washer back up replaced new belts and started the washer up worked great put front of washer back on done Great instructions that came with parts
Washer was making a loud clunk-clunk-clunk going into spin cycle.
Found main drive belt had a big chunk out of it. Both belts were worn and "gummy". Replaced both belts with belt kit 12112425; no tools needed -- belts are replaced from the bottom. Just tip the washer back to the wall, and there are the belts.. Installation time 5 minutes.
took front panel off had 2 screws, propped up washer in front, took belts off with hands and put new ones on in reverse order One belt was badly cracked. I am 77 year old female, if I can do it, anybody can. great service on getting belts too. Thank you
A friend said the cause was probably a belt. On Google we checked the washer model number which took us to your site. We looked at the videos on how to do the repairs, and so ordered a drive belt and pump belt. They arrived in two days. My husband is 84-years-old, I'm 83 -- difficult for us to lift the machine to tilt it. Experimenting with fulcrum and lever, we managed -- that's what took so long. After watching the videos again, I laid on the floor and was able to apply the belts. Washer works great!
Top came off quickly with socket wrench. Removed gasket in about a minute. Spent 45 minutes getting grime ( soap and lime) off of top. Took five minutes to replace gasket.
Haven't been able to get front back on. Clips go on side rather than top. Found missing clip for which new one was purchased in transmission. Still haven't gotten front to stay on. Clips keep springing out.
I tipped the washing machine (somewhat tricky since it sits under the dryer) and saw the broken belt. Went online, found the belt I needed, bought the set of two belts since I figured it would probably be a good idea to change both belts at the same time. After a few days I had the belts in hand; it took more time to jockey the machine back into place than it did to attach the belts. No tools necessary; the washer parts are on a spring. I did need a screwdriver, however, just to re-attach the washer's front panel.
Repair not that complicated. Remove front, lean top back, remove agitator, remove special nut, remove inner tub, remove seal. Clean shaft and seal surfaces. It is highly recommended to the spanner wrench to remove the special nut. It appears one can do it with a punch and hammer, but the nut is too tight, and corroded from years of water exposure. I believe part number is TJ90TB123A, about $15. Watch the video on this web site, very good.
Washer was not draining completely & at times a small amount of water would leak from under the washer.
Followed the instructions on-line. Pulled the washer out from the wall, tipped it back about 45 deg. & removed the two philips screws as the base of the front of the washer.Removed the old belts which showed little wear, disconnected the hoses from the pump. Replaced the pump which was held in by only 3 nut-head screws, attached the belts & adjusted the tesnion as described on the website.
watch the video and it was very simple replace belts like they show on the video. lay the washer on it back and the belts was visabile. removed the small belt and then removed large belt, and replace the large belt and small belt. i used no tools. that because i lay the machine on it back.
My dryer is 35 years old and thought this was it, but I googled the question and found out it was the door switch. Orderd the part and received it very fast and didn't want to wait for my husband to come home so I went on you tube and found a video how to open dryer and change switch. I did it in about 30 min. and yes it is now perfect again. No problems. I just unscrewed the old switch and put the new one in. Maybe I'll get another 35 years out of this machine. :o) Thanks for making it so easy.
Water was overflowing inside the washer and coming out bottom.
First I removed the two screws that held the front washer panel in place. Then I removed the two bolts that held the top on the washer. I then had to remove the four screws that held the top panel with the electrical parts in place in order to obtain access to the inside area where the screw was that held the fill injector was located. I next removed the screw that held the fill injector unit in place. I then pulled on the tab that held it in place and moved unit into a better place to replace the fill injector. I had previously cut the hose clamp during my investigation of the problem and replaced it with a pressure clamp. I then unscrewed the clamp, removed the bad fill injector and replaced with new fill injector. I then reversed the entire process to reassemble. The whole process turned out to be easier than I thought! The hardest part was diagnosing the problem in the first place.
I removed the two screws holding the switch and removed it from the machine. I then removed the broken spring and replaced it with the new one sent to me from partselect.com. I reinstalled the repaired switch and turned on the machine. It was easy as that and it works great. PartSelect.com is the best.
Fill Injector Broke - A mouse may have contributed
I opend up the housing, found the broken part, ordered it, installed it, and had the washer working within 4 days of the initial break down. Saved a lot of money over a service call, as well as time, and trips to the laundramat.
Disconnected the hoses , power cord, and the drain hose. Tipped the washer on it's front panel and removed the old belt and spun the new one on. Tested for tightness as per the instructions and sat the washer up and hooked everything up. Total time---5-10 minutes. Local appliance dealer insisted this wasn't the belt we needed. Thanks to your website we easily selected the right one. Thanks.