MAH14PDAAQ Maytag Washer - Instructions

Unplug washer.Take off front panel by removing several screws. Lift up top after removing left and right side hold down bracket. Remove wax motor(brown item on left) The rotating latch will be free to remove and replace with new items. Don't forget to reattach spring. I found that my latch was not fully engaging with the teeth slightly misaligned. The locked light was on however there are two switches. One to control the lock light and one which enables the final spin to occur. After the items were changed unit ops normally. Also fast delivery (2 day) regular shipping!

On-line instructions were found easily enough. And followed easily. Hard part was placing the cable and spring which secures bellow on drum. One instruction said "you cannot do this by yourself" (I couldn't see how help would have "helped") the other said "this was the hard part" of repair. I weight 115 lbs and it took me 1/2 hour to finally get the spring hooked through cable end it's a very STIFF spring! I only had a short pair of needle nose pliers - an 8-inch pair would have given me more leverage and shorten "hook-up" time.

My 16 yr old son replaced the door boot. He said it was very easy although the wire was alittle tricky. But all in all it was very easy for him. Saved me alot of money.

My Maytag Neptune quit spinning. I found an on-line diagnostic tree and traced the problem to the wax motor. Testing indicated that the motor had failed even though it was still getting power. The continuity between the wax motor and control board appeared to test good. Based on the apparent diagnostic results, I found PartSelect, read their reviews, and ordered and installed the new wax motor. Once installed, I discovered the new wax motor would not work. I did some more online research .It helped me to find that I had a burned R11 on the control board. It's great for those who want to try their repair skills before ordering a new control board at nearly $350. I I contacted Neptunehelp.com and explained I had just purchased a new wax motor from PartSelect. Neptunehelp sent me the rest of their Stage 1 Repair kit at a discount by eliminating the wax motor in the kit. The kit included solder, a solder wick, a wire to open the printed circuit board holes, and both a new R11 and Q6. The site had a thorough explanation as to why both electronic components should be replaced at the same time...any why both should be replaced if the wax motor has failed. They also had an excellent video on some tricks about installing the wax motor, and an excellent video review on soldering tips if you want to attempt a repair on your own. PartSelect was OK for as far as it went, and the wax motor I purchased now works as it's supposed to. But I hope they will link to the Neptunehelp.com site to assist those who are more adventurous and have more advanced do-it-yourself skills. If you know anything about a VOM and have ever done a little soldering, it may be a better option than buying a wax motor and control board when only the was motor, R11, and Q6 are needed. I've completed the whole repair, including soldering in the new electronic components, and have just completed one wash cycle...the unit now works like new. If you are unsure about your electrical skills, you might want to stick with PartSelect and buy a wax motor and control board. If you're more experienced, and don't mind spending about $50 before having to spend nearly $400, then check out the Neptunehelp.com site for some good one-stop shopping and some good instructional references. They have a couple of contingency plans if the Stage 1 kit fails to fix the problem.

Removed front panels, lifted top to open position, removed back cover, removed drive belt, drum pulley, removed rear bearing snap ring, removed seal clips, removed 3 baffels then the 3 mount bolts. Pulled out spinner support and the inner drum. Removed the rear bearing #6206LL with brass drift rod and heavy hammer (came out with little effort. The front bearing #6207LL I soaked with penatrating oil overnight (this bearing was making all the noise as after 11 years water finally got to it) The next morning I had little trouble removing it with the brass rod and hammer, taking my time to work my way around driving it out. After cleaning everything up, assembly was the reverse, carefully driving in the new bearings. The new lip seal was the most difficult getting started without going in crooked. Time spent was a good 8 hours (it would have been more if the outer drum was removed) and the cost of everything was $167.09. Thanks to Part Select, the spinner support assy came the very next day. The two bearings came from Bearing Supply & Depot Inc. The washer operates like new!! Very Quiet!!

I went on your site and found out the Bearings were not sold separately by Maytag and that they wanted $800.00 for the entire outer tub in which the bearings are pressed into. I read another post on your site where someone referenced some NSK bearing part numbers. I went to my local auto parts store that cross referenced the NSK number to Timken Bearings (a high quality automotive bearing). Following the instructions I hammered out what was left of the old bearings cleaned everything and pressed in the new bearings. When the Lip Seal kit arrived I pressed in the new seal following the instructions provided, reassembled the washer and it’s as good as new. Total cost just over $100 in parts and a few hours labor. Removal of the old bearings was a difficult task especially since mine were in such bad condition as water must have been slowly leaking into them for some time. If you have some basic automotive repair skills and or some knowledge of how to remove and replaced pressed in bearings I would recommend this repair. In my case money was the motivating factor with 2 kids in college and a wife who would have insisted on a new matching set of a washer and a dryer instead of just replacing the washer.

I just followed what others have already noted. The only challenge was the spring as others have already stated many times. You will need help but be patient and you'll make it work.

Using online disassembly instructions removed and replaced front and rear bearings. Then attempted to install the seal kit that was purchased online from partselect. Com. Was supposed to receive both seals plus lubricant so that no matter which seal I needed I would be covered. The kit I received had 2 seals that were identical. . . I needed, as it turned out the early seal kit, but unfortuneatly I had 2 revised kits. Of course I tried to assemble one but it just won't work. The seal kit must be the correct one. I didn't give up. I ordered another seal kit online from appliance partspros. Com and received both kits as advertized. . . One being the early version plus a small packet of grease along with all the other required loose parts and was able to complete the repair. The second time around proved much easier because of the experience factor.

Followed the instructions that were supplied with the Lip Seal Kit, for removal of the inner drum. As expected, once into the project, I found that the bearings that are part of the outer drum, were bad. Reading other installation blogs, prior to starting, I knew the bearing sizes, 6206-2RS & 6207-2RS, and I purchased the bearings, from Motion Industries, before starting the project. Taking a hammer and long 1/2" socket extension I was able to remove both the inner and outer bearings form the outer drum. (Bearings were all but seized up) Once I had cleaned up the aluminum hub which is part of the outer drum and where the bearings mount, I was able to start the process of installing the new bearings and completing the project. Timing could not have been any better to take on this repair project because the aluminum hub was showing major signs of corrosion on the inner side of the hub. I was concerned that the new lip seal would not seal off the inner drum from the bearings/outer durm. This project was competed on 8/21/12 and so far and 6 loads later I have not found any leaks.

I opened the back of the washer, put the isolator in the hole it belongs in. I then inserted the motor pivot pins into the holes, and installed the motor bolt. Installed and tensioned the belt, tightened the motor bolt, and installed the back cover.

removed front panel. removed brakets holding top. lifted top hinged backward. Removed tension spring and cable that secures the seal to the drum. Pulled seal out. Put new seal back in. Secured with cable and spring. Reassembled top and front.

easywaterways to diagnos and order the part. Very satisfied.

After removing the door, I pryd the bellows from the front of the washer then removed the front panel. I then rolled the spring from the rear of the Bellow and removed the old Bellow. Once I saw that the front edge of the washer drum was held on with spring clips I decided to remove it and clean the inside of that while I was in there. To get that part out I had to remove a couple cross braces. After cleaning I put it all back together. Getting the spring back on the back of the Bellow was a little challenging. Then put it all back together again. Now it looks great again.

Remove the back panel (4 screws). Use screw driver to loosen the bands. I had to tilt the washer up on a block to "twist" the part free. Once you see the bottom of the washer, you can see how the pump attaches and how to free it from the mount. The hardest part of the job was trying to get the hoses back on using one hand. That was a hard task. I used the shop vac to suck up the water that came pouring out of the drum once I loosened the bands. Not a hard repair. Unfortunately this did not fix my issue, but I wasn't going to go through hooking the old pump back up. (Was the far more expensive timing board that was faulty)

Followed the video, besides the spring, everything was easy.