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Dryer Drum Stopprd
Basically, Followed the instructions in the Video for Belt replacement. I found out however that the Tensioner was also broken aand needed replacement, and this required the snap wring pliers. also spindle on motor was stripped and had to use "lockTite" to repair that. Overall was far better "doining it myself" than paying for repai service which would have cost several hundred $ in costs. This increased my confidence level to know that as long as parts are available I will always be able to repair this appliance!
It was so easy to repair that my wife did it. She used a screw driver to pop out the old, worn plastic part that the door latch goes into and snapped in the new part and it was all done. So nice to be able to fix it yourself!
I followed the video on the site which was really helpful.I took the door off without problem. I had to take the bottom panel off the front and unscrew screws on large front panel.Replacing the latch was a breeze. Just as shown on video. Be careful that dryer drum doesn't fall down off wheels. My did and had to push it back up.Replaced all panels and screws and it works great.
unscrew the screws at bottom front of dryer, lift outward, upward, the bottom of the front of the dryer. As the dryer front tilts outward/upward from the bottom, the area where its hinged at the top of the front will disengage from the main frame of the dryer and the face of the front of the dryer comes off. remove the old door latch by manipulating the plastic body of the latch (wiggle, twist pinch . . .) until, from the back, you can push the old latch forward through the front of the front of the dryer. At this point, you can put the new door latch back in from the front and push it in to place.
To remove and install the new parts, I followed the video instruction at whirlpool.com. Then removed the old knobs and put the new ones in. The new one created a rough contact and needed a little lithium grease to make a smooth insertion to prevent the friction from damaging the new part. It was an easy fix and took about ten minutes. Good luck in your repairs!
Removed the front dryer panels (lower & upper), front drum support and drum. This gave me easy access to the idler pulley and tension spring. I also took the opportunity to vacuum all of the lent that had collected over the years. After installing the new parts and aligning the belt, I reassembled the panels, plug it in and it worked like a champ! Locating the parts on your website was fast and easy. I appreciate it and thank you.
used one nut driver, basically took the whole machine apart. took snap ring off the idler shaft, replaced pulley, and put it back together. simple job.
You have to take apart the whole dryer to get to the belt.Nut driver with cordless drill make it go so much faster.Unplug dry, take apart dryer and replace with olr belt with new belt.Takes about 20 minutes to do.plus I took off the two guide wheels on back of cabinet and greased everything.Works like brand new.I had a repair guy tell me I needed a new motor.If you can spin the drum by hand replace belt first.
removed bottom panel.Has 2 screws on bottom.take belt off of idler. take 2 screws out of motor base.turn motor sideways& remove bolt from arm that holds idler. remove snapring holding idler. replace pully & reassemble in reverse. Thank You Partselect for prompt shipping. A+ Rating
I took the two screws out of the end of the door and the door handle off. Then able to part the interior of the door enough to replace the latch. The video was really great.
My problem was that my AMANA dryer would not heat. The site suggested testing the two thermostats so I opened the dryer but didn’t follow the instructions in the video tutorial on the site since my AMANA is different. I used a nut driver and needle-nosed pliers for the whole job. Here’s what I did:
1. Unplugged the dryer.
2. Disconnected the exhaust pipe at the dryer.
3. Pulled dryer away from back wall about two feet.
4. Removed the two bottom panel screws (floor level) and removed panel.
5. Removed the two door panel screws and removed door panel by pulling out at the bottom until the two spring clips released from the top panel.
6. Noted the colors of the wires going to the door switch and removed (green, black and white from left to right).
7. Noted the colors of the wires going to the lamp and removed (bottom - black and top - red.)
8. Removed the two top panel screws, lifted up the top panel and leaned it against a support.
9. Removed the four bulkhead screws and carefully lifted up and removed the bulkhead being sure to support the drum. Took note of the belt path around the motor and idler pulleys.
10. Reached under the drum and took the belt off the idler pulley and motor drive pulley.
11. Used the belt to lift and remove the drum through the front opening.
I noticed that the internal vent pipe had become disconnected (which probably caused internal overheating) so I fixed that.
I then removed the wires to the thermostats and tested both for continuity. The limit thermostat was bad. I also saw that the belt was becoming cracked. I ordered a new limit thermostat and belt.
Installation of the new parts was a snap. I removed the old thermostat with the nut driver and replaced with the new one and pushed the wire connectors back on. Replacing the belt was a little trickier but not a problem. (Be sure to route the new belt correctly as noted on Step 9 and place ribbed surface next to drum.)
I closed up the dryer by reversing the opening steps.