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LDEA300AGL Admiral Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the LDEA300AGL
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belt was broke and ajuster fell off
first I took the two screws that hold the filter in, then disconected the power,then I poped the top of dryer up and removed the two 5/16 screws on the inside of the front panel then the two screws down by the loading door hinges and took off the front cover and the drum, replaced the belt and put the ajuster back on and put everything back in revers order and it is working like new thank you for the fast order .tony
Parts Used:
Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
  • tony from fostoria, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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High Limit fuse thermostat blew, dryer quit working.
I ordered the part. This is now my third order. It appears that every 10-12 months this happens. I opened the top of the dryer by using a flat head screw driver to push in two clips. The clips are along the front edge of the lid about two inches in from each side. Push in with the screw driver while pulling up the lid. Once the lid is open (of course the plug is pulled) I locate the heat coil. Above the heat coil is the the thermostat, I replace that. Or maybe it is the over heat fuse, I forget. I then replace the sensor found along the side of the heat coil. Re-attach wires. Close lid. Plug back in and ready to go.
Parts Used:
High Limit Kit
  • Jeremy from Westerville, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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dryer is heating but the drum is not moving
first, i read all the comments on this web site as well as other web site. sooner i confirm the problem is the drum belt, i order the parts.
my kemore model front panel is one piece. so i have to lay down the dryer and open the front panel on the top. The instruction sheet sent with the belt is very good, so it does not take too much time to replace the belt, the challenge task is to reconnect the front panel to the side panel. I spend too much time trying different way to use the fastner hook to connect panels without realizing that the hook is broken. stupid me. i later have to use the wire to connect the front panel to side panel. overall, i am very happy i fix the dryer.
Parts Used:
Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
  • jenny from Lisle, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Broken belt
Pry up front of top and lay back. Remove two 1/4" srews at top corners. The front of dryer will then swing to the right. The drumb will lift out easily. Remove broken belt. Inspect the drum rollers on the back wall. Replace if loose or not turning. Mine needed replacement. The assembly part is not easy. You need the drum in place and after it is in place you can't get the belt on. After 8 tries I got smart and made a prop to hold the idler pully up, then put the belt in place and let the pully down slowly. It worked! Put the front back on and the 2 screws and pop the top back down. Also it is a good idea to unplug the electric cord and turn off the gas (if app).
Parts Used:
Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
  • Michael from Woodbury, MN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Belt was old & slipping.
- Unplug the electric dryer.
- Manually opened the top of the dryer.
- Unclipped the wire assembly attached to the front panel of the dryer.
- Removed two screws holding the front panel of the dryer, and remove front panel for access.
- Very Important!! Note how the old dryer is currently installed before proceeding.
- Rotated the dryer drum while working the dryer belt toward the rear of the dryer.
- Removed the dryer drum.
- Removed the old dryer belt.
- Put the new dryer belt around the dryer drum and put the dryer drum back onto the drum rollers and into the rear guides.
- Here's the hard part, lay on floor and reach into the pulley area and motor - wrap new dryer belt around these belt rollers as "noted" in the fifth step.
- Rotate dryer drum by hand to ensure the new dryer belt is exactly installed as the old dryer belt.
- Reinstall front panel.
- Reclip wire assembly onto the front panel.
- Manually close the top of the dryer.
- Plug in the electric dryer.
Parts Used:
Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
  • Bernard from Hadley, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Dryer completely dead
Pry the front of the top up - it's held on with barbed fasteners that just snap out. Underneath the hood against the back panel is the heating coil assembly. On top of it is the thermostat, hanging from the side of it is the thermal fuse. I removed the heating elements (coiled wires held in frame) to make access to the other parts easier.
Pretty much plug-n-play. One nut driver takes off everything, you might need a needle-nosed pliers to push the lugs onto the contacts of the replacement parts (they fit VERY snugly).

Also, remove the front panel and clean out the lint in the air duct - lint collecting there is apparently what drives up the temp causing the fuse to blow in the first place.
Parts Used:
High Limit Kit
  • Steven from Emmaus, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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The Drum Stopped turning
I yanked up the front of the lid, the broken belt laid across the drum like a dead snake. Pulled that out, then removed the two screws holding the front. Using the pliers, pulled off the two wires snapped to the door switch.
Lifted out the front panel, and lifted the drum, (added a bit of a yank to get it out of the two rollers in the back).
Vacuumed out the dust and dead bugs, then tried to figure out how to thread the belt on the idler and motor. (This was the hardest part) the picture that shows the parts is an exploded view, and does not show the way that it goes together. After about half an hour, I asked for help, and we found a slight rubbing on the idler and figured out that the tensioning spring pulls on the lower part of the idler arm, not the top. Putting the belt on, and getting the spring into the hole in the base was tricky, but not hard. Reassembly was straightforward, and took less than 5 minutes. (put in the drum with the belt on it, hook the belt on the motor and idler, push the rear of the drum into the rollers, then put on the front panel, re-attach the door switch, and the two screws holding the front, and close the lid).
Parts Used:
Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
  • David from Huntsville, AL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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broken belt on dryer.
lift top of dryer unscrew the top of the pull out filter from the top of dryer. then unscrew the screws near top on the inside of the front panel and have an old soap container handy to hold up the dryer drum. lift the front panel up for removal and put the old soap container under the drum to keep it from falling out. Then mess around with the idler pulley and look up information under pictures of idler pulley in place with belt in Google to see how the belt fits through it.. Finally replace belt, check front and back of drum to insure proper fit and put the dryer back together to see if all works well. and see if the reason for belt breaking is apparant and more than just old age and use.
Parts Used:
Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
  • Michael from McAllen, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Dryer belt broke
Removed the two screws at the back that hold the top of the dryer. Then I pried off the top at the front by inserting a screwdriver into the front to remove the top from the clips. Then I tilted up the top like a car hood.

I removed the two screws inside that held the front on and lifted the front off. Because of the wires attached to the front, I made sure to turn the front aside without pulling on the wires. After removing the broken belt, I put the replacement belt over the front of the drum, lifting the drum a little. Then I threaded the belt over the drive and around the tension wheel per a diagram I found on the web.

While I had the front off, I removed the lint trap and cleaned out probably decades worth of lint.

Then I replaced all the parts in reverse order, plugged it in and had a working dryer!
Parts Used:
Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
  • Damon from Somerville, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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I had a problem with the drum when installing the door
I pried the top of the dryer with a screw driver and then lifted the top of the dryer, I then removed the two screws "with a nutdriver" that held the door in place and then removed the door and drum. I then got the new belt and placed the belt over the drum and positioned the belt through the idler arm and then on the motor pulley. I had to hold the door and drum to lock the bottom of the dryer door to the dryer and then made sure the rear drum seal was in place and the belt did not slip off the motor pulley
Parts Used:
Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
  • Edmund from Cranston, RI
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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The drive belt broke in half.
With no experience repairing appliances, I did figure it out that the drive belt was broken since the motor was running and the drum did not turn.

What to do? Start looking for fasteners! I knew I had to get to the drum, but there was nothing up front, on top, or bottom that gave a clue. Only the back panel had hex head steel screws. I removed them and the panel. Then I removed a tube that pulled air from the drum to the outlet. I saw some screws holding the back of the dryer top. After removing them, the top popped off by pulling it up and releasing the attachment at the front.

This gave me access to a couple of screws holding the top of the front (holding the door). It seemed to make sense to lay what was left of the dryer on it's back. After removing the last two screws at the top corners of the front panel, I pulled it up and removed it. The drum lifted right out. The belt tightener was loose and lying against the back wall.

The local Sears did not have a replacement belt and their web site was not that helpful or forgiving. A Google search revealed a site called PartSelect. It had a very useful search routine which led me to make a purchase on a Saturday evening. The belt arrived at my door on the following Tuesday! Be sure to look at the instructions that come with the belt, it will demonstrate how to fish it through the loose belt tightener.

In about 1.5 hours the dryer was back together and doing it's thing. There were two additional screws left over, but I figure that's a manufacturing defect.

I was a hero to the wife, as usual.
Parts Used:
Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
  • Stephen from Cincinnati, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Dryer would not run.
Disassembled the dryer with the help of diagrams provided on the web site. With the aid of an electrical diagram discovered inside the dryer, tested each component with a multimeter until I found the open hi-temp limit switch. Ordered the High Limit Kit because I couldn't find the hi-temp switch separately. After receiving the repair parts I read the enclosed instructions and learned that I needed the additional part enclosed with the hi-temp limit switch after all. Thanks to some forethought by the supplier, I didn't have to wait for the other part to be shipped.
Parts Used:
High Limit Kit
  • F. Charles from Mosier, OR
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Broken dryer belt
I followed the posted directions from others, and it was a breeze. They were really helpful. I would just add the step of keeping the drum in place with a block of wood underneath before removing the front. Slip the belt around the drum, reattach the front , and then finish positioning and tensioning the belt once the block is out of the way .
Parts Used:
Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
  • Miguel from Hollywood, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Dryer wouldn't tumble
First unplug the machine and turn off the gas. Then, I pried the top up (2 clamps on front, 2 screws to the lint screen). Then I removed 2 5/16 nuts that fastened front panel to sides. I held the drum and pried the front panel back while my wife slipped the new belt around the drum. Then, I buttoned everything back up in reverse order, removed the kick panel, threaded the belt through the tensioner pulley and around the motor shaft. It's really that easy. PartSelect.com makes it simple with quick, accurate service.
Parts Used:
Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
  • Jason from Kettering, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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I heard a noise when I opened the dryer, took off the front panel and saw the broken belt on the floor.
We took off the front of the dryer and saw how the new belt needed to go on. It took myself, my daughter, and my husband to get the belt in place and the drum aligned. Once that was done, I put the front of the dryer back on, this holds the drum in place. After that, we sealed the back of the drum like the instructions stated, turned it on, and it worked. We were a little concerned with the instructions stating if the drum was not sealed properly it could cause "fire & death". We kept checking the dryer throughout the evening... no fire, so we were very happy to have done this repair ourselves. Thanks. I would not have tryed it myself except for the positive comments on your site when I looked to order the part. They were correct, it was easy to do and saved us a lot of money in repair service. It also showed my 23 year old daughter how easy it is to some things yourself. :)
Parts Used:
Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
  • sheila from east lansing, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
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All Instructions for the LDEA300AGL
106 - 120 of 555