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Followed the excellent utube instructions you provide. Piece of cake when I followed the video. The rear springs became much more difficult because my model does not have rear access panel. They were the only stuggle. Thank you for doing the repair videos
I followed the instructions that other posters suggested. The springs were the toughest part to remove and reinstall. Having my wife push the tub enabled me to use vice grips to get them back on. Read about the coins or washers to spread the springs too late... would have helped. Running a wash now and it's spinning great and no noise!
Reverse the process to install new pump Unplug the machine Place pad on floor to protect the machine from scratches Lay front of machine on floor Remove back cover (10 screws) Disconnect 2 hoses Remove 4 screws which secure pump to bottom frame Remove belt Remove pump
Reverse the process to install a new pump
Your web sites intuitive design makes it easy to navigate and the customer service person was knowledgeable, easy to understand and professional.
The part arrived via UPS in 3 days. It was double boxed (well packaged) and most importantly, it was the correct part.
This was is 1st time we used your server but it won’t be the last!
Kudos to the entire staff and please…keep up the good work.
Opened hinges top of washer. Removed screws holding hinge bases. Removed the washer top lid and unscrewd broken hinge pin. Replaced hinge pin and inserted in pin base and screwd base op hinge back onto washer and job was done.
Lid hinges wear out, causing lid to slam as you are trying to put clothes in or take them out.
Lift the top of the washer so you can access the screws that hold the hinges. Replace the hinges,and close the washer top. This is the sescond time we have had to replace the hinges.
This lid and hinges are very poorly designed. Instead of opening to the side, it opens straight back. That means when the hinges wear out (and they do because they are plastic), you have to push the lid all the way back to stay open. When you push it all the way back, it hits the control knob and turns off the water.
If you are like me, I like to turn the water on and add the soap so it can dissolve before I add the clothes. It is really irritating when you open the lid and the only way for it to stay open is to push it all the way back and the water shuts off. And if you don't push it all the way back, it slams and scares the bejeebers out of you or slams on your fingers.
I followed the feed back in the forum from a previous repair. I popped open the top of the Washing and propped it open @ approx. 70 degrees,moved the Tub out of the way and used a small Phillips Scwdrvr to remove the broken part, installing the new parts was a snap, I took the time to use a Q-Tip and petroleum jelly to coat the pin and hinge making it easier and less binding when opening the lid.
Turned water off,tilted unit forward,removed lower rear cover,removed belt,laid towels around ,removed inlet hose and exit hose off pump,removed 3 screws holding pump,removed pump and installed new one,reversed order of disassemble, has been running great ever since.
Washer was shaking/thumping during the spin cycle for even the lightest loads. Previously changed the suspension springs, and the problem was not resolved.
I was able to locate the service manual for this washing machine online and download the PDF for free. Getting this will provide dis-assembly instructions and photos.
Sorta like requiring that you disassemble an engine in order to change the oil filter. Engineering suggestion here for any Maytag folks cruising the site. Mount the snubber ring with it's own clamping ring so that you can change it (snubber) without removing the agitator & spinner basket from the tub. Think something like this... Remove suspension springs, remove hoses, flip entire assy. upside down, then replace snubber ring without any further dis-assembly.
I followed the service manual's recommended approach, here are the basic steps:
1) Open the small back cover and detach the wash drum's drain hose at the waste pump, and while you've got back of the unit visible, tip forward and unhook the drive belt from the motor, pump and agitator.
2) Use a spatula or putty knife on the front seam between the lid and the lower body to unlock the spring latches which keep the top on. Flip the top up and back to get into the basket area. Take off the front cover so you can see the wash drum.
3) Remove the top cap/splash guard around the wash drum by pressing the cap/splash guard down while unhooking the little ears.
4) Remove the fabric softener cap from the center of the agitator and remove the bolt that's down the center of the agitator. This will require a socket. Remove agitator and plastic skirt that goes around the bottom of the agitator.
5) Remove the plastic sealing nut. This nut has a number of small plastic points on it and I broke a number of them off with the channel-locks while removing this. You may need to order a spare.
6) Remove the washing drum.
7) Use the spanner to remove the basket hub. I made a spanner out of some scrap steel parts I had and mounted using the screws I took out in step 5. If you have a spanner, you're set here.
8) Unhook the suspension springs and you should be able to lift the entire unit right out of the base.
9) Remove the cap on the bottom pulley and pull the E-clip that holds locks the pulley in place. Remove the pulley and plastic gears which mesh with the transmission shaft.
9) The snubber ring (the problem here) is located under the brake plate/ring on the very bottom. The brake assembly is preloaded with a spring inside, the manual says to use a special spring compressor while assembling. I didn't have any trouble holding it down while I had my 5 year-old daughter start the screws for me. Remove the 6 small screws around the brake ring and remove the shards of the worn out snubber. Replace with new snubber and start re-assembly.
Possible Shortcut:
After doing this, I see it may be possible to shortcut the factory directions. I can't guarantee that it will be successful, but after doing it I don't see any reason it wouldn't work. Following above numbers: 1) Do numbers 1-3 above.
2) Jump to step 8, remove the suspension springs and just get the entire drum removed and inverted. Don't mess with the legs, don't mess with the attachments or anything. You will only need to work on the pulley.
3) Remove the drive pulley and brake retaining plate. Shouldn't need to do anything with the inside of the washing drum here. No need to mess with the seals and/or plastic nuts.
discharge pulley assembly bearing going out on it.
Went to website, looked up make and model, looked at photo's discription, studied it, and then went in and removed front panel, turned off water, removed clamps holding hoses too dishcharge pump, mopped up water, and then just reinstalled new piece, the way the old came out, re attached belt to pulley assembly, turned water back on, and did a test for leakage and wala washer back in working order in less than an hour, and saved hundreds of dollars with out maytag repair man.
short drive, 90 degree, "star" driver. push tub to side and back to reach lower part of old hinge, remove single screw. (careful not to drop it into the "mechanics" of the tub.) repeat for the other side. remove parts from lid. reassemble new parts onto lid, along with lower hinge parts. secure the lower hinge to door part(s) with masking tape to hold in place. hold lid in place over lower hinge screw holes and start screws by hand. snug up the screws and your done! the 'STAR" screws may be relpaced with similar "phillips" so you wont have to scrounge for a "star" driver the next time.
First replace the hinge but realized it was actually the hinge pin thar was broken. So we replaced the hinge pin and the hinge on both sides and it works like new. It was only necessary to replace the right hinge pin, but we replaced everything since I had already ordered the parts. Check hinge pin first.