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Washer fills but would not drain. Pushing the lid switch in and out several times would actuate the switch.
Remove the rear panel covering the control panel. Remove the two screws on each side of the upper control panel. The top removes with gentle (or not so gentle) taps toward the front of the washer. Lift the upper away but be careful of the attached wires. Top must be removed or switch cannot be removed as it cannot pass the cycle selector. Note the wire positions and colors to the switch assembly, remove them, and loosen the screw holding the switch assembly in place. Tilit assembly up like opening a book and lift up and away from the washer being careful of the lid switch actuator below. Replace with new assembly, making sure actuator is positioned to activate switches, and reattach the same screw. Reattach wires to appropriate places, replace top control panel and reattach screws, replace rear panel.
Move dryer away from wall. Unplug the dryer. Open the hinge top from the front edges of dryer. Remove the two screws holding the filter channel onto the top of dryer. Lean the top of dryer back away from the front . Open the dryer door, Locate switch from the top looking into the dryer top opening where you have just leaning the top back out of your way. Unplug the wire from the old switch. remove the old switch and bracket using the flat blade screwdriver for screw removal. Place the wire on the new switch using the normally open contacts. place switch on bracket and gently position the bracket and switch over the holes designed for the switch and tighten screws using the new Phillips head screws sent with the new switch. place the top back into place and replace the filter channel screws plug in the dryer and job finished. easy as 1-2-3
Checked the fuse it was blown. So I replaced it, pluged the washer back in. pull the start knob that's when the lids switch sparked and blew the fuse again. Found you on line ordered the complete assemble to save me from the trouble of slowly change each. Switch out the wiring from old to the new assemble. Line it up, one screw and a little adjusting and the Maytag is back in business! Thxs Guy for the quick shipment had it in two day on a ground shipment!
My dryer is 35 years old and thought this was it, but I googled the question and found out it was the door switch. Orderd the part and received it very fast and didn't want to wait for my husband to come home so I went on you tube and found a video how to open dryer and change switch. I did it in about 30 min. and yes it is now perfect again. No problems. I just unscrewed the old switch and put the new one in. Maybe I'll get another 35 years out of this machine. :o) Thanks for making it so easy.
Very easy, and simple. Replaced part that was sent. It was a simple process, open control panel, unplug machine. Unscrewed the old part, attached the new part and starting working right away. I am very impressed with this company and the speed they shipped the parts. Will continue to use if needed and tell everyone about this site.
Hi there, I received the parts from you in short period of time, take its out 4 screw with screw drivers, Open the pannel, unscrew one nut with nut driver, take it out Lid assembly I put it in myself, It worked wonderful, I do appreciate your service in " Do-it-Yourself" system.
I called a local repair service and they wanted 95 bucks for the first 30 minuets. Any thing over that was an additional 45 bucks per half hour, plus parts. Since the washer was 19 years old I thought it would cost around 300 big ones to get it repaird. We could buy a new similar model for about 550 bucks so I said, what the heck. I'll invest the 18 bucks to see if this 80 year old can fix it. The repair instruction I read on your on line were perfect. FIXED IN ABOUT 20 MINUETS.Installed the lid switch, saved a bundle and maybe another 19 years on the washer. Thanks a bunch. Walt Apple Valley Mn
Water was overflowing inside the washer and coming out bottom.
First I removed the two screws that held the front washer panel in place. Then I removed the two bolts that held the top on the washer. I then had to remove the four screws that held the top panel with the electrical parts in place in order to obtain access to the inside area where the screw was that held the fill injector was located. I next removed the screw that held the fill injector unit in place. I then pulled on the tab that held it in place and moved unit into a better place to replace the fill injector. I had previously cut the hose clamp during my investigation of the problem and replaced it with a pressure clamp. I then unscrewed the clamp, removed the bad fill injector and replaced with new fill injector. I then reversed the entire process to reassemble. The whole process turned out to be easier than I thought! The hardest part was diagnosing the problem in the first place.
I removed the two screws holding the switch and removed it from the machine. I then removed the broken spring and replaced it with the new one sent to me from partselect.com. I reinstalled the repaired switch and turned on the machine. It was easy as that and it works great. PartSelect.com is the best.
Washer quit working after partially filling with water
I found the mostly likely parts to fix my problem on the website... that washer would not start, stating the lid switch assembly fixed the problem 66% of the time. I used an ohmmeter to test the switch and could not find any continuity. Replacing the switch took less than 5 minutes. Easy.
Repair not that complicated. Remove front, lean top back, remove agitator, remove special nut, remove inner tub, remove seal. Clean shaft and seal surfaces. It is highly recommended to the spanner wrench to remove the special nut. It appears one can do it with a punch and hammer, but the nut is too tight, and corroded from years of water exposure. I believe part number is TJ90TB123A, about $15. Watch the video on this web site, very good.
