the tines in the upper basket of the dishwasher were falling apart
Removed the old tines by pushing out the clips on the end and then installed the new tines and applied clips - took 10 minutes worked slick and the washer basket looks to be brand.
Replacing the float switch was fairly easy and straight forward. removed old using adjustable wrench and replaced.
Replacing the door links was not difficult except I needed to pull the dishwasher out and had to disconnect the water line. reconnecting the water line was the time consuming and frustrating part. Once that was hooked up and tested, i pushed the dishwasher back in place and all is good again.
I researched the internet about this symptom on the Kenmore Elite Dishwasher and I found lots of people with the same problem. Everyone fixed it by replacing the Bi-Metal Fuse. I removed the old fuse and tested continuity and it was indeed bad. Once the new fuse arrived I tested continuity and it of course worked as expected, so that was a nice wipe of the brow. The new Bi-Metal Fuse came with a nice instruction manual. I also used a video from YouTube to help with the repair as well, but the included instructions were enough. The only thing that was not clear was the best way to attach the new wire since it was quite a bit longer than what was orginially there. So I ended up just folding it up and putting everything back together and it worked just fine. This repair was very easy as long as you are OK with cutting and stripping wires in a somewhat confined space and not being too worried that you might mess it up for good... :)
Top slide out rack in dishwasher, plastic part broken
Found this web business the night before my wife intended to call the service people. Examined the diagram, found my part, went right to it on the order form. The part, its left side counterpart (which I really didn't need), and the shipping were about one third the amount I would have paid the service people to come just to tell me that they would have to order the part, and return to install it. For less than $20, and in four days, I received the part. I snapped it in place in approximately 15 seconds, and was done. My wife looked at me in disbelief and asked how in the world I had done that. "Superior intelligence and connections!", I replied. Thanks PartSelect, I shall return.
Motor starting making a terrible racket after installation 15 months earlier
Be sure to shut off power at circuit breaker and disconnect drain and water supply. Remove the dishwasher from the cabinet, lower it on its side. Remove three electrical connections from motor to various sensors. Remove three plastic wedges that secure the motor gasket to make a tight seal. The motor pops into the body of the dishwasher for removal. The replacement motor goes in just as you took it out. It took two people to set the motor right to ensure the good seal on the gasket for re-installation. Then turn it back upright and secure it in place. Couple suggestions, be sure to have ample towels around for leakage from water and drain lines. Be sure to cover the bottom of the dishwasher during disassembly and reassembly of the wash manifold. I dropped a screw in there and it took me some time to fish it out. All in all, it went well. Don't pay a plumber for this job. I'm a clod and if I did it, you can.
disconect water supply and drain hose, unscrew 2 screws hoding front of dishwasher to countertop, slide dischwasher out so you can tip on its door and remove 1 screw hidden behind plastic shield and pull motor out install in reverse order.
The Spinner at the top of the dishwasher came off and would not stay on.
First of all I appreciate the instructions provided by this site when I selected the part I needed! The installation was so easy. I popped the end caps off of the top rack guides and removed the top rack. I reach in and popped the clips holding the top sprayer bar and gently pulled down on the sprayer bar enough to place the spinner button in the top of the sprayer bar. Then pressed the spinner on the bottom of the sprayer bar into the button I place in the top of the sprayer bar and reattached the sprayer bar to the clips. Put the top rack back on the guides and replaced the guide caps and it was finished. Easy fix thanks to this site great instructions!
I removed the upper dishwasher rack and disassembled the middle spray arm as described in other posts. Replacement was easy. The difficult part was to figure out what was causing my dishwasher to leak. I had seen many references on line to leaks being caused by the door seal or lower vent wear. I had replaced both. Those replacements resulted in less leaking, but I still had water coming out. There were also references to leaks sometimes being caused when the lower spray arm was cracked, but mine was fine. (My dishwasher has an aluminum lower arm, so it wouldn't crack.) I discovered the middle spray arm was cracked when replacing the upper dish rack. (It was starting to rust.) Apparently, when the middle spray arm is cracked, the heavier circular water flow from it creates a wave motion (vortex) in the bottom of the dishwasher. That pushes water past the seals at the bottom of the door. Once I replaced the middle spray arm the water leak problem disappeared. As an added bonus, my glasses came out cleaner! I have never seen a post indicating that a cracked middle spray arm could lead to water leakage, so hopefully this post solves someone else's mystery problem!
