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Bad Water Inlet Valve
No Water supply to Dishwasher. Turned off main Supply valve under sink.First took off old Diswasher supply valve and repaired it by cleaning it and it worked for two weeks. I ordered the part, but then cancelled it and Partselect service was great and cancelled it immediately. After it went down after 2 weeks I re-ordered it and it came in 4 days. To Take this part off I removed mounting scews with nut driver, disconeected electronic plug connector, removed the compression fitting from the water supply and removed the outlet hose..reversed all of the above to install.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Lower spray arm wobble - poor cleaning
Removed the lower spray arm assembly thumb screw and lifted off the spray arm assembly. The lower seal had disintigrated - couldn't even find any pieces in the filter. After reassembly with the new seal and bearing I turned the spray arm by hand to ensure it was not binding. There was still was, what I would consider, some excessive wobble. I fashioned a shim washer out of some plastic from a Folgers coffee can lid and installed it on the thumbscrew threaded shaft and tightened it all down finger tight - it works very well and now, and no wobble. I relaced the upper spray arm seal while I was doing the job (both the upper and lower seals are the same part #). I figured it would go out on me eventually, so I might as well replace it while I was doing the lower arm work. Kept the old upper arm seal as an emergency replacement.
Cleaned the filter screen of all debris (it is amazing what collects there over time). Cleaned the stainless tub with some spray Greased Lightning, ran the rinse cycle, and then put a few tablespoons of citric acid crystals in the soap dispenser and ran the dishwasher on NORMAL WASH with temperature boost. Looks new inside; cleans the dishes, glasses and utensils well (no water spotting); and is nice and quite (like when it was new).
replaced door seal,lower door seal and wash arm bearing ring-now it leaked when it was running.put old door seal back in and no leaks. all it needed was the wash arm bearing, also I cleaned out the inside of the water level float,which lowered the water level in the bottom of the dishwasher.
Removed the washer from the cabinet, although the repair kit could have been replaced without this step. However, it still made it easier. Removed the spray arm assembly and the top cover to the motor. I had to block the motor to keep it from turning while I unscrewed part number 11. The rest was very self explanatory. The "impeller" was seized onto the motor shaft (20 years old) so I had to use a chisel to break what remained off, then clean some corrosion from the shaft. The repair kit worked and the pictorial parts diagram that came with the kit was very clear. Bottom line: "Easy peasy, lemon squeezy!" Great web site for diagnosis and parts diagrams!
The repair went well with the major problem being I replaced the drain hose without removing the dishwasher from it's position. Due to this I removed the drain end with out being able to see the hose and put it back on by feel. Over all I was back up and running with in 30 minutes and everything has worked very well so far.
Very noisy on heavy wash cycles started and stopped when filling
repair was very easy did need to go to the hardware store for and adapter for the hose to water inlet valve as mine had a smaller diameter connector. Otherwise followed both videos. Needed a shopvac to remove water in the bottom of the dishwasher
Note orientation of the old gasket before removing it, so you can put the new one in right. Pull the old one out, which is a snap. Mark the center of the new one and push the center into the channel with your thumb nail at the top middle of the machine. Continue pushing it in on both sides, from top to bottom, in a steady, fluid motion; don't stretch it. If there is a bit extra at the ends, cut it off with a scissors, being conservative so you don't cut it too short. The new gasket will make the door a bit harder to close, but that's what you want.
Bottom of dishwasher retained an inch of water after cycles complete. Had to pump out dirty water before starting new cycle.
Once the covers under the door are removed, the check valve is visible (unless its too dark, hence the headlight), and pointing right at you. Since I was working under the dishwasher, I gathered all the tools I thought I might need and laid them on the floor next to. Removed 2 covers, placed pan under check valve and hose to catch any water, squeezed clamp with (wrong) pliers, it eventually came loose. Carefully twisted hose off check valve. Water came out, some of it got into the pan, most of it on the floor. I guess I should have pumped it out before I started this. Plastic check valve is screwed into the big piece of whatever, carefully grabbed it with (wrong again) pliers and turned it out. Installation is reverse of removal - but use a large pliers with a ROUNDED jaw to grab the round check valve body. Don't squeeze too hard or overtighten it. Put the clamp on the valve before pushing the hose on. Be sure the hose seats all the way onto the little lugs. Compress the clamp, slide it over the end of the hose and release. That's all folks, works good now.
Mine is a Ultra Wash 111 I followed the repair video on your site but my dishwasher was a little different. Not enough that anyone could still understand the video and not get it disassembled. The video shows two ball checks but mine doesn't use them where the videos shows. I put them in anyway because I called Whirlpool, who made my washer, and they assured me that they should be in there. They got sucked through the dump impeller and plugged the discharge tube so I had to disassemble it again and take the ball checks out. Lucky for me nothing got damaged. I then got a hold of someone on your chat line that got me to the correct parts view that shows where the ball check is suppose to go on my washer. During working on my washer I realized the squealing was because the bottom bearing on the motor needed oil. So all and all I'm happy because it runs quiet and it works fine. Thanks Greg
All I had to do is lay the shield over the top and sides and used a couple of clips to hold in place as it was slid under the counter top. It couldn’t have been easier.We had searched everywhere for this replacement shield and parts select was the the only ones that had it. Very good service and fast delivery,
Partselect provided me with tracking information for my order, they also provided an installation video. So when I replaced the door seal it was a few minutes to remove the old seal and about five minutes to put in the new one and it was all done.Thanks to Parts select it was a piece a cake
First I replaced the lower door seal then I replaced the door gasket. The instructions were clear so both were pretty easy. Unfortunately neither fixed the leak. After further research I discovered that the screws on the pump had become loose. I used a torx driver to tighten the screws. Time will tell, but I am pretty confident that this has fixed the problem.