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freezer would not freeze
inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."
freezer and refrigerator compartments not cold enough
Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.
Retainer bar was a little long but husband used a saw to make smaller (the part said it was a similar to my model- Maytag no longer made this made) It was perfect -- ow I have a whole new usable shelf!!
Door would pop open. I cleaned gasket made sure nothing in the way of door. Gasket was cracked top and bottom it worked better but the seal was not good.
Did just like the video showed took doors off daughter helped take off doors so easy put door on blanket. My daughter 38 went to town putting it on just watch the corners so easy two days after installation the door seals great. You can do this.
Rerigerator was leaving a lot of condensation on top shelf in refrigerator.
Removal of the door gasket went quite fast. First i needed a 8mm wrench. That what I didn't have. Got the socket set, not the wrench. Tried adjustable wrench, went slow. I slowly got the bolts out. Putting the gasket on was slow. Then I get to the last corner, was awful for me. I finally get it on. Putting the freezer door back on 1st went crazy. I finally looked on top of refrigerator, saw (3) bolts, removed them, installment went easy from there.
The frig was running too long. the frig was warm the freezer cold
Check for Video if any, watch 2X. The parts may look different (but not this time) Unplug.Defrost timer-dropped the control panel in the frig. the defrost timer sits right in the middle switch it out.Turn the timer to be set on the on cycle. Wasn't sure if the Bimetal thermostat was bad too so for a little over $20. I changed that too.- in the freezer- remove the metal panel and fan cover. its clipped on to the element tubing on the right. cut the wire. Splice the wire to connect the new one then cover with wire nuts. replace cover, plug in. use frig thermometer to verify temperature.
Freezer was working but fridge was barely cooling. Look further into how to test thermostat.
I just replaced my defrost thermostat after using the place-in-ice-water method, and I think it may not have been necessary. My timeline: my fridge was not getting cold enough. I realized it the day before going on a trip. I vacuumed the (very dusty) coils at the bottom, and the next morning the fridge seemed colder, but I thought I should order parts just in case. I ordered a heater and a thermostat. The fridge seemed to be operating normally when I returned from my trip, but I had the parts, so I thought I'd go ahead and dismantle the freezer and test the existing parts. My intention was to return both parts if the old ones passed the tests. I opened up the back of the freezer and there was no ice on the fins. I thought, great, the existing heater works! I cut out the thermostat, placed it in ice water, and didn't get continuity. So I decided to go ahead and put in the new thermostat. Because I'm not experienced with using a multimeter, I thought I'd test the new thermostat to see how the test should work. To my surprise, the new thermostat also failed the test! Stumped, I thought I might as well install the new thermostat, since I had opened the package and couldn't return it. Further internet research suggests the place-in-ice-water method of testing is not adequate. One YouTube video by Parts Dr says to place the part in a working freezer. I froze my old thermostat and tested it; still no continuity. This thermostat may not be typical, though. The video discussed the temperature ratings on thermostats. The temperature rating on both (old and new) thermostats is L8.9-16.7C. That converts to 48-63 degrees fahrenheit, which obviously are not freezing temperatures. I'm not convinced I needed a new thermostat, but I trusted the videos I consulted earlier. I cleaned the fridge thoroughly, so at least now I have a nice clean fridge to show for my efforts.
After searching online to diagnose the issue with my refrigerator being warm and the freezer being cold and not shutting off to defrost I decided to get the defrost timer kit. The kit arrived within 2 day. With the directions included, after unplugging the appliance for safety, I installed it relatively quickly with only a screwdriver . I then plugged it back in and it immediately went to defrost. I thought, wow I have it fixed. Well unbeknownst to me it still didn't cool in the fridge area. After doing more internet research I found a suggestion to unplug the fridge for 24 hours to unthaw ice that may be lodged between the freezer and fridge that is blocking the distribution of cold air into the fridge. After doing this, it now works like a charm.
I pulled the socket out and unplugged the wires. I replaced the light socket by plugging in the wires and snapping the light socket into place. A very simple fix.
