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Switch was not working after a repairman had fixed something else
Please bear in mind I am 65 years old & it was harder to get up & down off the floor then to change the switch. Was very easy - watched video, unplugged unit. I used the putty knife at the right front corner to work loose, when it came loose had to loose the left side a little. The unit pulled out easily. detached the wired that had a single plug with 2 prongs on it. Attached the plug, pushed new switch into place. There was no way you could place wires on wrong prong. When done, plugged refrigerator back in & checked if working. I CAN SEE THE LIGHT and the food in the freezer now. Thank you for making an easy repair.
Warm freezer and fridge compressor clicking on and off
Remove rear panel with 1/4 nut driver. Pop plastic cover on compressor. Pry off relay and two wires and reinstall. Nice and easy and back to full function :)
Fridge was bought some years back without icemaker
The fridge was prepped for an ice maker but was never installed. After much aggravation of people not filling the ice trays I gave up and installed the ice maker. This is probably the hottest summer on record, and we were going thru a lot of ice. Lost a little real estate in the freezer by the ice maker but it was well worth it. Now I know I have fresh ice for cocktails in the evening!Install was fast and easy. A little longer than usual because I had to run the water line as well.
I watched the repair video. My son followed my instructions. He removed the ice-maker. The back panel was frozen, so we chipped and waited for the ice to thaw. There are three wires to remove from the old fan. My son used his cell phone to take a picture of the correct wiring. He used needle nose pliers to get the motor off the bracket. I used hot water to thaw the ice, so we could get the back panel to fit properly. If we weren't waiting for the ice to melt, we could have finished in about a half-hour. I'm 86 years old, and have carpel tunnel. My son is 63. Together, we make a good team.
1)pry out the old/defective light rocker switch with a screw driver (flat head) and pull out the cables 2)unplug two connectors at the end of light rocker switch 3) connect new light rocker into two connectors 4)push the wires inside and put back new light rocker switch
I did exactly as the video showed. I popped out the old switch, disconnected the two terminals, connected the new switch and put it back. The light now works! The refrigerator is over 25 years old and the switch works! What a great website this is. Couldn't of done the job without Partselect's help.
I did a Google Search for a 1998 Whirlpool ED22RF, looked for trouble Isolation procedures. Don't remember the web sites but two parts were mentioned namely the timer and the thermal relay. After making sure it was unplugged I removed the back lower insulation panel, removed the red wire from the relay located on the left side of the condenser and unplugged the relay. I examined it for physical damage before checking with an ohmmeter and found the thermal relay sounded like it was full of sand when I shook it. So we found PartSelect and searched for the thermal relay and found an exact picture with the part number and ordered the part. We received the $30 part 5 days later. Only took 15 minutes and two tools to install. Thank you for saving us a few hundred dollars.
The cold control was sticking and not allowing the defrost timer to initiate
Disconnected the power first. Installed the new thermostat. Re-routed the power wire directly to the "common" #1 pin, on the defrost timer which will allow the timer to run continuously and changed the defrost cycle design from "cumulative" run time to standard "on demand" run time. Re-routed the "compressor" #4 pin wiring through the thermostat so the thermostat is only responsible for cycling the condensing unit on demand thereby removing the cold control from the additional load of handling the defrost heater load as well as the compressor load. I would only advise this procedure for someone who is very knowledgeable in electrical wiring and appliance repair. PS: the reason for this is? 1.By allowing the defrost timer to "de-ice" the evaporator coil on an 8 hour (demand) cycle, the ice buildup on the evaporator is less, allowing more air to circulate through the evaporator coil and increasing the efficiency of the appliance. 2. As the thermostat cost 4 times as much as the replacement defrost timer, it makes good financial sense to take the additional "defrost" load off the thermostat (who's only function should be to control the condensing unit) 3. The frig stays colder & doesn't run as long...FYI...I'm a state licensed refrigeration contractor...Thanks.
Refrigerator is not getting cold while freezer remained operational
I unplugged the refrigerator(for safety). Using a 1/4" nut driver I removed 1 screw holding ice tray rack. I then removed the 2 screws holding the lower shroud inside the freezer section. I then removed 1 screw holding cover plate where ice maker would be and disconnected the ground wire from the back panel. I then removed the 2 screws holding the back panel in place. This allowed me to removed back panel from from inside the freezer. I removed the fan blades from evaporator motor by pulling straight away from motor. I was then able to disconnect the power wires and the ground wire from evaporator motor. Using the 1/4" nut driver I removed the 2 screws holding the front motor bracket and removed the evaporator motor from its bracket housing. Using the an electrical cord that i had fashioned with two female spade connectors on each lead of the wire, i connected these to the motor and plugged the male end of the electrical cord into a standard 110v outlet to verify that the motor was in fact the defective component. The motor did not operate so I replaced the evaporator motor with a new motor and put everything back in reverse order. The refrigerator is running like a champ and keeping the refrigerator contents a cool 42 degrees. Thanks PartSelect.com
