Unpluged the refrigerator, removed the burnt out switch by unpluging it, plugged the new one in re installed the switch into cover. Plugged in refrigerator replaced cover. Done. Easy as one two three
fist turned off water supply. then removed bottom kick plate. unscrewed old valve, unscrewed each water line. removed old valve. put in new valve and repeated putting back each water line than the kick plate. depending on the height of your refrigerator you may have to crank up the leveler bolts to give you more room.
Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!
Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!
The actual repair was very easy, what was the difficult part was to get to the valve!! It is on the bottom front but the size of the valve is larger than the opening so we used PVC pipe to create a fulcrum so that we could pick up the front of the frig about 1/4" to remove the valve. We then did the exchange, tube by tube, and again picked up the front of the frig to replace. Thank goodness we didn't need more than that as it is a built in refrigerator! It would have never been done!!
Removed old loose caps and front plate by sliding caps up or down out of door inserts. Slid new caps in and snapped them into place (note: although caps ordered were for left and right specifically, they were identical when received, so intalled one down side up and the other up side down and they worked fine this way...not sure why they were priced differently?). Spread outer end of caps and re-intalled front plate.
With instructions from PartSelect.com this was an easy fix. I tested the motor's electric as suggested and was satisfied that the Motor Module (WPL W10190935) would correct the problem. UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR! I popped the outside plastic cover off to expose the unit. (1) remove the wire unit that runs the length of the cube maker (2) remove the 3 screws that secure the motor unit and carefully remove it (3) carefully line up the new unit, slide in place and replace the 3 screws (4) install the wire that was removed in step(1). Connect electric to the refrigerator and wait about 2 hours for your first ice cubes. PartSelect.com is the ONLY supplier that you will ever need! Great instructions and trouble shooting suggestions. Shipping is incredibly fasssst! Customer contact is awesome. Don't hesitate to buy from them! Saved me about $200.! Good luck....Tom in SC
Removed ice maker from fridge. Removed motor assembly (3) screws on cover, and (2) screws inside. Removed mold (3 screws on bottom) and replaced everything in reverse order. Note: Turned ice maker off for several days while waiting for parts. The water line on this particular model will freeze inside the freezer if ice isn't made for several hours/days. You will have to defrost to begin making ice again.
i noticed that no water was getting to the ice maker. rather than messing around with parts, i bought the entire unit. easy to remove old one and install new one. thanks...ice started again in about an hour. unit cost less than a service call!
After first unplugging the refrigerator from it's electrical power source,I removed the lower screw of the ice making unit with a nut driver. I then loosened the upper two screws which hold the retainer clips that secure the unit tight to the freezer wall. I then lifted the unit upward and outward a few inches to allow access to the wire harness. I unplugged the haness from rear of the freezer and removed the unit completely. To install just reverse the procedure.