KRMF706EBS01 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Viewed the viedo - it showed what to do

followed the video as instructed. Saved two repairman calls, one to find the problem, one to install. Net savings was about $130.00

1)pry out the old/defective light rocker switch with a screw driver (flat head) and pull out the cables 2)unplug two connectors at the end of light rocker switch 3) connect new light rocker into two connectors 4)push the wires inside and put back new light rocker switch

Installing the switch was a breeze, the tough part was removing the old switch. I watched a video on the PartSelect website which showed how to remove and reinstall the switch. I attempted to remove the switch the same way that they showed on the video, but the problem was my switch was surrounded with foam insulation which was stuck to the old switch. I attempted to pull out the switch but was not able to extricate the switch. Finally, I called a friend who works with these switches and he cut away the foam insulation and removed the switch. Being the handyman that I am, I was able to reinstall the new switch. Hope this helps anyone with an Amana refrigerator that has the light switch on the side wall instead of in the light console like the video showed. Don't be afraid to cut away the foam on the right and left sides and the bottom. Don't cut away at the top, because that is where the wire connections are located and you might cut those off and then you'll be ordering more parts. Good luck.

I did exactly as the video showed. I popped out the old switch, disconnected the two terminals, connected the new switch and put it back. The light now works! The refrigerator is over 25 years old and the switch works! What a great website this is. Couldn't of done the job without Partselect's help.

Simply stick a putty knife between the switch and refrig wall. Pop out old swith, remove both wires by pulling off switch by terminals. Throw switch out. Put wires on new switch and push into slot and all done. Nothing to it! Took me 5 minutes if th

I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.

Super simplet to fix. Popped out broken light switch and unplugged it and replaced with new switch. Received the part one day after ordering it from your company--AWESOME SERVICE AND TURNAROUND TIME!!! Saved at least $100 plus in repair costs/trip charge for something we were able to do. Great experience and would order from your company again. Thank you!

watched the video how to remove, and did it.

Pulled out old switch with needle nose pliers, unplugged old switch and plugged in the new one and snapped back into place. Very easy to repair. Took less than 10 minutes

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

disconnected el. power to fridge. pried out broken switch with small screwdriner and pulled out w/water pump pliers. installed new switch and pressed into opening.

I had ordered some other parts for something entirely different off your website and service was great. So after almost ten years of a dark refrigerator, because of a defective switch, I decided to see if you had the part to fix it... You did and the part got here in 3 days. I had a working light switch and all the light in the world where my husband needed it most (in the fridge). It took me at the most ten minutes to replace the part. All is well now and I have a happy husband who can find the leftovers just fine. Thanks for your great service!