Enter the code USA15 at checkout to apply your discount. Discount will be applied at checkout when the code is entered & applies to all parts. Cannot be combined with any other coupon or special offer & cannot be applied to a previously placed order. Not valid toward tax or shipping & handling. Discount has no cash value. Discount expires on July 1 at 11:59pm EST.
You've Got 10% Off Your First Order!Save 10% with code at checkout *click to copy coupon code
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Light switch in freezer side got broken
Took a putty knife and Removed the old switch removed the spade terminals from the old switch and replaced them on the new switch and just pushed the new switch back in place
Light switch that causes light to turn on when door is open was nroken.
Truth is, this took a couple hours of cursing, but that was due to poor information and no prior experience. I imagine the next one would take 20 minutes. The issues are these: videos tell you to use a putty knife to pry the old switch out. That is harder than it seems because each switch has a plastic spring that pops open to hold the switch on, and you can't access the spring when the switch is installed. So it is important to use the knife on the side of the switch (left or right of spring -- look at the new switch), and back and forth until the switch is worked out. Then it can get worse. The new switch has to plug in electrically before it can be installed mechanically. In my case, with the switch on the fridge wall rather than the top, the outlet for the plug was encased in foam insullation. That gives the appearance that the plug was fixed, immovable, which makes it impossible to plug it in electrically before the switch is in place, and of course once it is in place you can't then plug it in. The problem here was poor instructions. Just scrape out a lot of the foam around the plug and you find that the plug is really not fixed, but attached to reasonably long wires that allow you to plug it in with the switch a couple inches from the wall, and then insert the switch. None of the online instructions tell you this about the wires.
Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked
Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced. reassembled the pieces.
Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!
Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!
ONCE WE KNEW THE COMPRESSOR WAS NO LONGER FUNCTIONING , USED A MULTI METER TO VERIFY 120 VOLTAGE TO THE INVERTER WAS PRESENT, FOUND 120 VOLTAGE TO THE INVERTER WITH NO VOLTAGE TO THE COMPRESSOR. OHMS OUT THE COMPRESSOR, FOUND IT WAS WITH IN SPECS. REPLACED THE INVERTER AND ALL IS WELL ONCE AGAIN.
I think the lights are wired in series. When the light in the freezer goes bad several lights in the refrigerator go out but are still good. Replace the lamp in the freezer and all the lights in the refrigerator work again. The only tools I used was a 1" scraper and a very small flat screwdriver to pop the lamp assembly out. Not much room to work in so it was a bit of a job getting the wire connector where it needed to be but not to bad..
Back cover was wet in the area of the inlet valve(sign). Water on the floor. 90% of the time is a leaking inlet valve. But it could be frozen water on the drain pan- so I exposed the radiator fins and drain pan and looked. No ice so I went to the valve and opened the copper line valve and waited a few minutes- as soon as water was called by the. Ice maker it leaked. So I went ahead and replaced the valve and after I made sure no leaks were visible I replaced the back cover and continued to observe and all was good. I treated the fridge as a new installation, changed filter and dumped the next two ice buckets. Then I proceeded to demand brownie points.
Top Lights stopped working. Flicker on/off for a second but remain off
Isolate the broken LED light fixture by pressing the door switch and releasing it; broken light will remain off and not flicker. Unplug refrigerator and apply painter's tape around the light fixture to protect surface finish from being marred or scratched. Use the putty knife to remove the LED light and disconnect the wiring from connector. Reconnect wire of new part and install by pressing light fixture in place. Remove tape and plug refrigerator back in.
All Freezer LED lights and one light out in the fridge.
There is a good YouTube vid on how to extract the old LED without damaging the liner of the appliance. (Use a one inch plaster spatula and some blue painters tape). VERY IMPORTANT: The freezer LEDs and the one that was out in the fridge compartment are in series on the same circuit. I found out by trial and error after a frustrating start. If one or two are bad they all go out like a christmas light string. So be patient and keep replacing bulbs until they all come on. Then you can test each one you took out to see if it was bad or not by putting it back online. At first I was annoyed that Part Select may have sent the wrong replacement items but they were in fact correct. These bulbs are not cheap so make sure the ones you take out are truly burned out.
