Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Dual inner element stopped working. The ceramic portion had a crack most likely from thermal stress over the years.
First I found a YouTube video for Maytag Range Repair – How to replace the Surface Element with Limiter - 6" - 1200W
The steps are very easy- 1. Open oven door and locate and remove 2 screws holding top cook surface. These are located near the top inside edge
2. Lift surface cook top and then remove 4 screws holding this section to the cook top. This may require 2 people but I was able to hold the cook top and loosen the 4 screws myself. Then put the cook top aside.
3. Take a photo of the element being replaced for wiring connections.
4. Removing the wiring and element holding clips was very easy. I used needle nose pliers for both
5. The clips have to be removed from the old element and put on the new one. Place them in the same locations
6. Make sure to reconnect the wires to the same pin locations. The replacement element I had the red (hot) wire pin 2b was in A different location so I had to use the extension wire supplied with the new replacement element
7. Put everything back together in reverse order.
Easy peasy, took me about 40 minutes to complete the entire replacement and have it back in place working.
Remove the oven from the wall Remove the rear panel Remove the 2 bottom panels Lift and fold back the insulation Remove the element enclosure Replace the element Reverse the steps to assemble
* the oven would not preheat and the top elements were working
cleaning oven door, fell on floor and broke inner door glasses
took apart and empty the broken glass! ordered parts too many glasses and no insulation ( no insulation in oven door when taken apart! Got the correct parts on order via a second sales person! Installed glass hinges, insulation and closed the door! and instaleed the oven door!
Just as others said. Remove top holdown bolts with nut driver. Prop range top up. Use a pair of plyers to remove wires (make sure you have a diagram to restore). Use screwdriver to remove element hold down spring and wire holder. Replace element and replace wires and screws.
After turning of the breaker for the oven, I pulled out the oven, removed the back panel. The High-Temp thermal cutoff was attached to 2 wires, which I unplugged, and then removed the cutoff by removing two screws. I then replaced the part in reverse order, pushed the oven back into the cabinet, and turned the breaker back on.
Pulled out stove and removed side panel, then removed old fan unit. Installed new fan unit and replaced side of stove then slide back in place, stove runs even more quiet than when it was new. And obtaining the new part from Partselect was even easier than dealing with a part store where you stand at the counter. This service really has the part down pat for us layman repair people.
First I looked at how I would get to the blower - this took 15 minutes. I removed the grills to access the burners. Then I removed the burners that took approx. 15 minutes. I then had to remove the knobs for the burners. Next I had to remove the front control panel which had 2 screws - (did not disconnect any wires but supported it). Next I had to remove the side trim. Next I removed 4-5 screws that secured the upper burner range top. Next I removed the side panels which has a braket on the lower forward side and 2 rear screws on each panel. Next I had to remove the aft backspash guard. At the back I had to remove a support braket that had several screws - then I had to remove the exhaust fan back panel guard. Next I had to remove approx. 7 screws on each side of the stove that supports the burner valves. Then I lifted the left side most closest to the blower. This gave me access just enough to remove the mounting screws (4) and to remove the 2 wires. There was some cushioning material which I found inadequate to prevent any vibration when the fan and the valve support top sits on the blower - so I doubled it. Then I reinstalled everything. This job took me 4 hours. I suggest calling a Kitchenaid repair technician and not doing this yourself. Unless you are a mechanically inclined and really like frustration.
My dual zone burner would trip my breaker anytime i tried to turn it on. All the other burners would work fine. I searched online and found a way to test my burner, which was shorted or grounded out. I purchased a new burner from the site...It was as cheap or cheaper than other sites. It showed up a few days quicker than i was expecting..I also replaced the switch to the burner, just as a precaution and to save time since i already had the top glass off of my burners....EASY JOB!
Followed these two videos https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U3ydzNNCVW4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SbVUGBHSXNY
Removed two screws underneath the control panel inside the oven door. Lifted the control panel and pulled outward. One side came out very easily the other took a while since the peg holding it in did not want to align with the cutout for a while.
Two screws then need to be removed to take off a bracket holding the rubber front seal in place along the glass. This took the longest due to either original installation or grease buildup or both. Stripped one screw and tried various tool extractors, ended up getting it loose with vice grips in the end.
Once that is removed the glass top should slide forward and lift out. Again due to grease buildup the glass was effectively stuck to the foam padding tape. Broke part of the glass where it had cracked, got the rest detached by sliding a butter knife along underneath all of the edges to loosen.
Installation at that point was easy, slid the new one in and did the earlier steps in reverse.
Overall this would have been a very easy fix in a newer cleaner stove.
Chip on the side of the cooktop suddenly became a crack extending from the left edge to the middle of the front edge
I followed the directions in the referenced video and also utilized the "butter knife" trick to loosen the top from all the built-up crud. One tip, though - be careful not to pry loose the thin plastic strip around the perimeter that the cooktop sits on. I tore a couple of pieces loose inadvertently; fortunately, after washing, they went back into place. Our stove was purchased in 2013, and there was a lot of built-up crud to deal with. The front rubber gasket was particularly gnarly. The video shows the gasket being soaked and rubbed with straight dishwashing soap, which was a great tip. Had trouble getting the gasket to re-seat at the outer edges of the cooktop - didn't seem to want to stay in place. An expensive fix, but far cheaper than a new stove!
Turned off circuit breaker to oven Removed oven door Removed screws of reflector plate and top and back of oven Gently pulled element out and down slightly Removed slide crimps on wires Replaced reflector plate on new element Connected slide crimps on wires Screwed reflector plate with new element to top and back of oven Done. Total time 22 minutes Tested and it’s perfect!
