After removing the back of the stove, the old light socket was fairly easy to remove. The new socket slipped in place and the wires reattached and now the oven has a light again. A very simple process--especially for someone who's not an expert in repairing appliances.
removed back of stove, removed 2 screws holding element, disconnected element and removed it, then reversed procedure. excellent service from part select and will use them again when needed.
oven drawer would not slide...because of worn out nylon roller.............
removed the worn out roller...inserted the new roller....tightened the nut...it was finished...this was without a doubt the most pleasent repair from start to finish..only took 3 days from the time i orderded the part to completing the repair...i would advise anyone to use " partselect.com" without hesitation
In my situation, removing the control panel first required pulling the range unit forward to expose the side screws, which first required removing the screws holding down the stove (tilt prevention. Those screws are accessed by removing the bottom range drawer). Replacing the switch was a breeze. Very important to label wires before removing them from the old switch. Also, over the years, food liquids that spilled on the range top "gunked up" the front gasket seal of the control panel. Suggest cleaning the gasket as part of the repair - something a DIY should always do! Leave it better than you found it. When I removed the current switch, I could tell by looking at the LED terminal post there were burn marks which suggested there was indeed a fault in it. For about $45 I replaced a switch that would have cost over $200 for a repair person to come.
Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you
lift oven door off of stove lay on towel on floor unscrew bottom screws,two(2)top screws remove oven glass face remove interior metal panel, lift fiberglass out,remove five(5)screws lift out outer& inner glass frame,romove broken glass, lay in new glass. Then reverse directions. NOT BAD AT ALL>
Had already removed back covers and disconntedted power. When io received parts I replaced them in reverse oder I had removed them. Took me longer to replace back covers because of my bad diabetic hands. Thanks very much, yopu savbed me a bunch. God bless you and yours, god bless america.
I tried taking the sensor out, but the plastic coupling behind the oven wall had melted and the melted piece was larger than the opening in the oven wall. I had to use a mini-screwdriver to chip away at the melted coupling before it would fit through the opening. That took forever...but it finally worked and the repair went quickly (15 minutes) after that.
Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.
One of the oven door hinges broke. Oven door would no longer fully close.
Repair was very straightforward. Based on information gathered from an earlier post about the same repair I simply removed all screws from the oven door. These were all located on the bottom edge of the door itself. Upon removal of the screws the door separated and exposed the "core" where I then had access to the hinges which were held in by one screw each. I removed the broken hinge, replaced it with the new hinge, pieced the door back together, put back all the screws, and the repair was complete.