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electrical short from oven light.
I trouble shot and traced out to electrical short in face panel and found burnt wires. I've been a licensed electrician for years and it takes alot of comon sense to trouble shoot and find problem. I found schetch-matic of appliance and searched computor and found partselect.com and tried it. It wasnt no time and the part was at my door. Thank you partselect and i would use them again in the future. billy
Video said to remove screws and lift stove top off, remove contacts and ground. My stove top was hinged and required me to lift and pivot stovetop up. The burners were anchored to the stove base not the top. I secured the topso that it would not drop down and proceeded with repair
There is a good video on YouTube that shows exactly how to replace the bake element. Had mine fixed in 15 to 20 minutes. Saved me about $150 by not having to call repairman.
Replaced the oven light with a new one but it burnt out as soon as I turned it on. Therefore I decided a new socket may help.
My whirlpool apparently has the old style socket which is pictured in partselect part #PS12584564. The old style socket has to two metal arms that retain it against the metal reflector.
The part that will come (#PS12584564) however is the new style that whirlpool has changed to, apparently. It is not as pictured. The socket and the reflector have different retention devices.
I used screw drivers to bend the two metal arms away to release the socket. Then I had to use allen wrenches to bend the reflector's retention tabs away.
Once I had the old socket, reflector, and lens replaced I just followed the video on partselect for part #PS12584564
The oven's lower heating element needed replacement
Watched the video and realized this was something I could do myself...bear in mind I'm not exactly a handyman! Took me about 30min as the oven also needed some cleaning...my tenant definitely needs to use the self-cleaning!
I have to note, although the heating element was covered by Maytag's 10yr limited parts warranty, I decided to purchase from PartSelect since Maytag could not provide a ship date and I couldn't keep my tenant waiting! Supposedly Maytag had the part in stock but their warehouse was behind because of the pandemic...what a lame excuse! Almost a month later, Maytag has yet to ship the part! Needless to say, am very disappointed in Maytag's after sales and warranty program! I get the impression, they just wanted to pressure me to buy the new part!
Lastly, was very pleased and impressed by PartSelect's customer service! Their website was very easy to use, less expensive than buying direct from Maytag and the part was shipped same day! Thank you PartSelect!
cooktop on the rt side would just keep getting hot
Removed the ifinite controlswitch and replaced it but i dont believe it is wired correctly. now it wont get hot until it is set on four or so. think i the way it is wired.
I shut off the breaker to the stove. I removed 2 screws from the underside of the cooktop at the front of the unit. I raised the cooktop and had my helper hold the top at an angle to access the burner. I removed 2 screws attached to the burner and then loosened the 2 clips and moved them to release the burner. I transferred the electrical connections from the old to the new. Reinstalled the burner and cooktop. Turned the breaker on, tested the new burner and I was fone
Unplugged stove-Removed oven door two screws held the oven bottom pan removed same to observe the element removed thre fasteners removed inspection cover on back of the oven pulled off two electric wires replaced element reassembled easy job
Unplug range, remove cover from back of range disconnect red wires from element spade connectors. Remove oven racks, remove two screws from back of bottom tray, and remove tray. Remove screw from element bracket and remove element. Install new element and repeat steps in reverse order. Done.
After watching the video, I said to my wife that this is a simple installation. However, I’m looking at the screws, I did not have the correct screwdriver to remove the screws. I had to go out and buy that. After that, it was not a problem.
I first shut off the breaker, then, after pulling the stove away from the wall, I unplugged it. I removed the two screws in the back of the stove which came off easily. I removed the two screws inside the oven and removed the bottom plate. I noticed the heating element I was changing had braces along the bottom. I had to remove the two screws and removed the burnt out element. The new element did not have the braces the original element had, but it fit in perfectly. Then I replaced all the screws, plugged it in and turned on the breaker and it worked. The only thing that we noticed is there’s a clicking sound every time the temperature increases. Not sure what that is.