Ordering the part online was easy. It arrived in a timely manner. I found a terrific video online showing how to install the terminal. It was so easy. Thank you for the great instructional video.
We actually had to get the repairman back that had repaired our microwave. Our range has the attached microwave above the range. My stovetop light worked prior to the visit. When he left, I prepared supper without the light, which did not go on. Ultimately, we had to replace the fluorscent tube, which thankfully, you had. No appliance store in a 35 mile radius did. We finally got the glass protector off, and the new tube did not go on. Back to the repairman, to tell him the new bulb did not work and that probably something happened when he visited before. He came back, found that indeed a wire had been broken when he was working on the microwave. I had indicated to him I did not expect to pay another repair bill after I had alrealy spent 117. before plus the cost of the new bulb, 22. something including shipping. He obliged and id not charge me anythink to repair the broken wire. Now I have the old bulb for back up!!! Thank you for having my replacement tube!!
removed the shield and removed the old tube. Replaced with the new tube and replaced the shield. The only place I could locate this tube was through the internet. This Co. had as good a price including shipping that I found.
I snapped a bolt on the main power terminal block when connecting the pigtail.
Removed the small metal panel covering the main power terminal in back of the electric range. Removed the nuts holding the red, white and black electrical wires from the range using the appropriate socket (there will be two nuts on each bolt end). Removed the two screws holding the main power terminal block with appropriate screw driver. Connect the new main power terminal block to the range using the two screws. Reconnect the red, black and white electrical wires coming from the range using one nut for each wire. IMPORTANT: do no over tighten the nuts because the bolts could snap. Reconnect the pigtail and secure the small metal panel covering the main power panel.
The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.
First I turned off the power. Next I disconnected the downdraft vent. Then I removed the cooktop knobs and turned it upside down on the counter. I then removed about 12 screws to remove the element housing. I then unsnapped the old element, disconnected the 3 wires, replaced it with the new element, replaced the housing and screws. I replaced the cooktop, reconnected the downdraft hose and turned on the power.
After reading what other people did for this job I figured I could do this. The inside glass broke after liquid accidently hit the glass from basting. Just followed the digram from the internet to show how the door and glass comes apart. The only thing I had to figure out was how to take the door off. And once I figured that out it went pretty easy. The door comes off just by lifting up on the door and pulling out. Just make sure you put all your parts in order on how they come apart and just replace them them in that order.
We removed 4 screws that let us raise the top of the stove. It was then very easy for my husband to remove the old burner and replace the new one. By ordering this part from you and installing it ourselves, we saved $248 from the quote we received from our "Maytag Repairman". Can't beat a deal like this and it was so easy.