The simmer switches had failed in the simmer ON position and the 2 burners would not heat up higher than simmer
I pulled the range away from the wall enough to reach the back. There is a small access panel on the back of the control panel at the top of the range. It removes with 3 phillips head screws. Once removed, the back of the switch is accessible. Simply pinch the 2 snaps on the side of the switch and push it out through the front of the panel. Remove the 3 wires from the failed switch and install them on the new switch. It isn't obvious which way the switch installs and I'm not sure it matters. But there is stamped writing on the switch that will help orient it. Then simply push the switch back in place until the snaps catch and install the access panel.
Open door 1/4 an slide the little latches on each hinge toward you. This will lock them in place. Close the door a little and lift it up. The door will slide out. Lay it face down on a table and undo all the screws. Do not remove the glass, frame etc. Slide old hinge out and new one in being careful not to slide the glass and frame out of alignment. It is a pain to get it all back together if you take every part out. Just do the hinges. Screw it back together. Reverse the door removal process by lowering the hinges into the oven receiver from a 75% closed position. Once in place, open the oven about halfway and slide the locks forward. This will allow the door to close completely. Note: Three hinges came with my set. Not sure what the third odd one is for.
the fastener became loose and dropped into the stove
This is a cook stove that is used 5 months a year. We have not fixed it yet because we are now in Florida the stove is in New York. We ordered that part just before we left NY for FL so the repair will be done in June of 2021. George Clark
Simple-pulled range away from wall, unplug from socket. Removed back panel unscrewed thermoses and replace. Put back panel back on plug in, tested temperature setting before sliding range back on place
I was trying to remove the oven door so I could clean the glass. Spills had run down between the layers of glass.
This oven probably was manufactured in the '60s when the house was built. The door doesn't just pull off like the newer models. These pins fit into small holes on the oven hinges. I inserted the pins and lifted the door to a 45 degree angle, before pulling the door completely off. Now that turned out to be the easy part. I then proceeded to completely dismantle the door. It actually has 4 glass layers which had to be cleaned individually. The hardest part of all was actually remembering how to put it back together again. I put the door back on just as I had removed it, then took out the pins, and I was finally done! This was not an easy project, BUT the results look great.
The old part, including lightbulb and socket, had corroded into place, and the glass light cover was stuck to the socket. I used a dead blow hammer and a dowel just under the diameter of the hole to tap on the back side of the socket to loosen it and get it out. The metal tabs on the old socket were folded back to make it fit better (?), which made it harder to remove. Lots of muscling of the part to get it out. Easy to install new part once old one was out of the way. An experienced person would have removed the old part and installed the new in no time.