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Stove got way too hot
Took the back off the stove, removed 2 screws, unclipped the bad sensor, clipped the new one on, put the screws back in and the back of the stove back on and that was it - 10 minutes
Loosen 2 screws and put new part in and tighten 2 screws. After putting in new sensor stove gave me another code had new part in 5 min and part select would not take my part back.
Oven was overheating and locking the door. Codes indicated the temperature sensor could be the issue.
Only one screwdriver needed for this simple repair. Unfortunately for me it did not repair my oven and a new code on the oven indicated a bigger problem with computer board. Part Select was great to work with and accepted a return and promptly refunded me for the part. Thank you!
The old part, including lightbulb and socket, had corroded into place, and the glass light cover was stuck to the socket. I used a dead blow hammer and a dowel just under the diameter of the hole to tap on the back side of the socket to loosen it and get it out. The metal tabs on the old socket were folded back to make it fit better (?), which made it harder to remove. Lots of muscling of the part to get it out. Easy to install new part once old one was out of the way. An experienced person would have removed the old part and installed the new in no time.
Replaced the oven light with a new one but it burnt out as soon as I turned it on. Therefore I decided a new socket may help.
My whirlpool apparently has the old style socket which is pictured in partselect part #PS12584564. The old style socket has to two metal arms that retain it against the metal reflector.
The part that will come (#PS12584564) however is the new style that whirlpool has changed to, apparently. It is not as pictured. The socket and the reflector have different retention devices.
I used screw drivers to bend the two metal arms away to release the socket. Then I had to use allen wrenches to bend the reflector's retention tabs away.
Once I had the old socket, reflector, and lens replaced I just followed the video on partselect for part #PS12584564
DISCONNECTED POWER AND GAS TO THE RANGE. REMOVED 6 SCREWS FROM REAR OF THE RANGE. REMOVED THE 2 SCREWS HOLDING THE TEMPERATURE SENSOR IN PLACE. DISCONNECTED THE LEAD FOR THE SENSOR. INSTALLED NEW SENSOR IN REVERSE ORDER. OVEN WORKING PROPERLY NOW.
Ordering the part online was easy. It arrived in a timely manner. I found a terrific video online showing how to install the terminal. It was so easy. Thank you for the great instructional video.
Replaced inner oven glass and reconnected the self cleaning lever.
The replacement of the glass was easy, I removed the door and placed on work bench. As long as you lay the parts out in an orderly manner the reassembly goes pretty good. The longest time was cleaning the glass's that were dirty from the inner broken glass. I also reconnected the self cleaning oven lever this required the removal of the oven top. Lot of screws to remove but went ok. I put locktite on the two screws which are extremely short.
I snapped a bolt on the main power terminal block when connecting the pigtail.
Removed the small metal panel covering the main power terminal in back of the electric range. Removed the nuts holding the red, white and black electrical wires from the range using the appropriate socket (there will be two nuts on each bolt end). Removed the two screws holding the main power terminal block with appropriate screw driver. Connect the new main power terminal block to the range using the two screws. Reconnect the red, black and white electrical wires coming from the range using one nut for each wire. IMPORTANT: do no over tighten the nuts because the bolts could snap. Reconnect the pigtail and secure the small metal panel covering the main power panel.
My son ordered the part, which came very fast, It was a perfect fit, and the job went very smooth. I have no story to tell except that Mom was happy to have the oven again and a VERY helpful son!!!!
The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.
First, I removed the oven door by pulling it open to where it loocked and then I pulled it up and off the hinges. Second, I removed the two screws on the top of the door and three screws on the bottom ot the door which allowed me to remove the front of the door. Third, using a nut driver, I removed the frame holding the inner glass to the door and removed that. Fourth, I removed the frame holding the broken glass to the door by removing the screws using my nut driver. I carefully removed the broken glass and vacuumed the channel that had the gasket in it. The gasket was fine so I did not have to replace it and will return it. I placed the glass in the frame on the gasket and reassembled the door in reverse order of how I had disassembled. All went smooth as silk.