JVM1870SF001 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Had to take to a local glass shop for sizing and to remove sharp edges. Will never order again.

Small sized phillips screw driver was required. Once gaining access to the new motor the part(s) replacement was simple.

It was very easy to remove the old charcoal filter and insert the new charcoal filter(had done it before with with the replacement filter GE had included with the purchase).

The repair was quite simple. I removed the old grille assembly from three opening slots on the microwave and gently inserted the new unit into the (3) slots on the microwave. I used (2) screws to tighten down the unit securely. Done!!! It is working perfectly.

Remove two screws on the top of the grill. Slide the grill to the left and then pull straight off. Slide the filter in place. Replace grill and screws

I followed the directions on your web site. I removed the screws adn dropped the bottom tray, unplugged the drive motor, removed two screw, and replaced with the new motor. It only took about 15 minutes.

Removed the 6 screws that held the cover below my microwave. Unplugged the part, plugged in the new one and I was done. My part arrived from you just one day after I ordered it! It was my first microwave repair ever, and it couldn't have been easier.

Wow! It really was as easy as everyone says. I ordered the part. It came overnight. I took out the 6 screws on the bottom of the microwave (AFTER unplugging the microwave of course), unscrewed the part and unplugged it, put in the new motor, plugged it in and screwed it in, and replaced the bottom screws. The only trouble I had, which really has nothing to do with this part or the repair, was that some of the screws on the bottom of the microwave were very difficult to replace as they didn't seem to line up with the holes beneath. I had a handyman coming to do some deck repairs and had him put those in. Ah well. I did MOST of it myself.

Stephanie, age 52

Removed top two screws tilted part outward just slightly and slid to the left to release the bottom catches and removed the grill frame and door. Removed the two springs on the two outer hinges and removed the hinges from the old part and cleaned the area and installed the hinges and springs on the new part. Slid the new part lower tabs into place and reinstalled the top two screws.

I ordered and replaced the coupler. Once installed, all was well!

Removed the outer cover to access the door switches. Turns out there were three switches, but I determined that only two were bad. When the small colored tab on the switch is pushed in it should make a clicking sound. The two bad switches had no resistance and did not make any noise when pressed. Removing the switch is relatively easy, you simply pull it away from a couple small tabs holding them in place. After reconnecting the wire leads, insert back into the holding tabs and install the cover.

This is sometimes described in other repair notes as "microwave 'runs' when door is open."
With power disconnected: Remove the microwave's metal grill surround. Three lower screws accessible with lower oven door open. Two screws accessible at top of microwave door opening with door open.
Remove microwave control panel: Remove two femaleTorx head screws (#27?) that secure the panel, accessible at right side of door opening. The right side of the control panel is secured by plastic tabs fitting into slots in the oven frame. Take good care to note how these tabs disengage from the slots (lift and shift). Tab breakage very possible! Once disengaged, the panel hinges outward and downward and is self-supported. It may be necessary to guide some of the wiring out of the way to fully lower.
There are three door switches, one "monitor" and two "secondary" switches. All switches are housed in a plastic frame, which must be lifted out of position for access, each switch is retained by flexible plastic, breakable-looking hooked fingers. Also note that the electrical connectors have tiny release tabs that must be depressed in order to pull them off of the switches. In my case the topmost switch, one of the "secondary" switches, was clearly bad since there was no "snap" or click when pressing the switch's button. Maybe you can determine which switch is bad before proceeding but I had ordered all three to avoid going through this exercise again any time soon.
Replace switch or switches, place switch carrier back into position and otherwise reverse the disassembly steps.

The halogen light bulb took a little skill. The prongs were a little difficult to maneuver into place.

Took out the door to be able to replace the door latch. After removing the plastic cover it was challenging to remove the broken latch (unlike other models this has two separate latches individually controlled by spring. The pin holding the latch was impossible to take out and I figured I need to take out inner layer of the door frame (metal part) to remove it. But the frame was stuck and did not come out. I found no reference how to do it on internet and then with another pair of hand pulled outwards while simultaneously pulling upward. Was finally about to pull just enough and replace the latch and push the metal frame to fit back.

Pulled it from the wall remove the front vent covers removed the control panel remove the door switches by a special screw driver bit which looks a star remove the electrical terminals pressed the plastic clip pulled the switch replaced it with new one then followed initial steps backward