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under microwave (above stove) light
The replacement of the light no problem, the reason the light broke; problem. The original was glued in (for transport i think) and simply trying to unscrew it out (in a very tight slot) it broke; be careful or you’ll be buying a new $20 bulb (with shipping and handling).
Un screwed the cover but when i tried to remove the bulb it was broken at the base. I disconnected the power and used neddle nosed pliers to remove the base
Micrwave won't run - turntable turns backwards when door opened...
Most of the effort is simply getting the oven out of the built in enclosure and the sheet metal off. This take about 15 minutes then you have to remove the two screws (not handy location) that hold the door latch/switch assembly so you can remove the switch. I did this BEFORE ordering so I could test the switch (it was charred) and verify the part needed. WATCH OUT - some ovens use a normally open an some a normally closed version of this switch - you have to get the right one. I checked several suppliers that were showing the WRONG switch for my model. PartSelect had it right. Once I received the switch I had it on and the oven installed and running in less than 30 miutes. Working fine since then...
Took the front panel off, played with the switch while it was plugged in to verify the switch was bad. I actually was able to tweak the switch just right to keep the microwave working while the part was being delivered. When it came it was just removing two small screws and replacing. Very easy.
Microwave appeared to work. Fan worked, timer worked plate rotated. It just didn't heat the food!
I purchased the fuse and 3 door switches from PartSelect. Replaced the fuse first but that did not solve the problem. Then I replaced the 3 door switches and problem solved!! So fuse only cost $5.00 so glad I have a new fuse in there as well. To see how to replace door switches see videos on utube!!
Removed broken bottom tray no tools needed slid new tray in, rather a tight fit because of the gaskets around the edges. The door now must be more firmly closed. Works fine. . Wife happy. . . . . . .
Unscrewed numerous screws holding the "body/shell" to the microwave. Removed body. I then unplugged top door switch, replaced it with new one, and "tested" the new one. I fixed our $400 convection micro with an $18 switch. NICE!
I found an exploded view diagram of of my microwave model which was very helpful. You need only remove outside metal skin by removing 4 screws on either side and 4 more on the back. Remove 4 plastic hole plugs from the top mounting inserts. Gently pull sides out and lift up and back to remove outer skin. The fuse is located on the back right corner behind the control panel. You access from the side. The fuse is under the spreader bar. Lift fuse up gently to remove.
P.S. It was the MSP Capaciter and or the interlock switch, snap apart 21A (19) failure that actually caused the ceramic fuse to blow.
Under the microwave there are two light bulbs that light up the top of the oven/range.
Last week I removed the glass cover that was held in by one screw and removed the burnt out light bulb. I ordered the bulb and left the glass cover off until the bulb arrived. I had to wait until this evening to put the glass cover back on and fasten the screw because I have a window right next to the oven and the sun streaming in made it too difficult for me to see how to put the glass back in and replace the screw.
bulb burned out light that is under the microwave, which lights the oven below.
thank you for the video--very clear, responsible, applicable although the illustration was not exactly of our kind of light. the bulb was exactly like the one Hotpoint used in its microwave made in 1989! I will come back to you for parts in the future. (You have the model # from my original order.)
I took the cabinet off and saw where the switch had been burnt. So I remove it and order another one from your company. And I put new clips on it with heat shrinks. We might get another 30 years out it, Although I'm 80 years old.