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When opening door, the microwave would turn on
I've been fixing and taking things apart since I was a kid. I hoped that it was a bad switch in the door. Got out my test meter and check the 3 different switches. All 3 tested good, but one was a bit hit and miss. It would work if the microwave was on its side and wouldn't when it was set flat. I found the switch online and installed it. Took care of the problem.It was a whole lot cheaper than buying a new microwave. Thanks! Bill Brown, Fridley, MN
I ended up breaking one bulb trying to remove a burnt bulb for replacement. We then tried removing the other bulb and it wouldn't come out either. I googled the problem and found PartSelect and an explaination of the problem. Heat from either the stove or the bulbs had fused the bulbs into the sockets. Comments on the problem explained that you just remove the bottome pannel (we had seven screws), unplug the old sockets, insert the new and new bulbs and reattach the panel. It was quick and no problems to correct. We did discover the microwave was on its own breaker, make sure to disconnect or cutoff power to the microwave before you start.
This was a super easy repair job. I couldn't figure out how the lens that covered the light bulb would have cracked and realized it must have been from my contractor when he replaced my stove. I can't prove it, of course, so I am left doing the repairs. The website was very easy to order from and confirm that I had the correct parts as the model numbers tend to change over time.
Oven wouldn't heat, but the displays, etc. were fine.
Once you remove the outside cover, there is a vertical internal shield held in by several screws that needs to be removed to gain access to the magnetron. Then you can unplug the main connector and unscrew the two screws that secure a thermal switch to its side. The nuts on the top that hold it in are tight, but can be undone. A minor nuisance is that you can't get it out without moving the high voltage transformer underneath it out of the way (also a few screws to undo it). Replacing the stirrer is quickly done from inside the cooking area by prying out the small plastic piece that secures the round plastic cover in the roof to gain access. The repair kit also comes with the high voltage diode, located to the front of the magnetron, which should also be replaced. One awkward screw holds the ground end to the chassis and the other end can be pulled down and off the capacitor terminal with pliers. Be careful not to touch the open capacitor terminal, in case it still has voltage on it.
Open the door and using a putty knife I managed to pop out the plastic piece immediately inside the frame piece (Choke Cover #11 in the part diagram). You must be careful if the outer frame is broken because it supports the glass window. Once the choke cover is removed, then remove the two screws holding the door frame to the ASSY DOOR-E (#9). Using the putty knife I removed the door frame (#4 on the diagram) from the ASSY DOOR-E (#9). Separate glass window from frame and put aside. Using the screwdriver remove the two screws holding the handle to the frame. Finally remove the spring from the latch (#6), then remove latch. This is a golden opportunity to thoroughly clean everything, especially the glass window and the film door (#10). Reverse the order to reassemble the door. Other than reattaching the spring and tightening the screws, the door frame and the choke cover just snap back into place.
Suddenly had no heat. All else worked fine. A deep odd hum sound.
This did not fix my problem. I've ordered a new microwave.
First off, UNPLUG THE MICROWAVE.
The fuse is located under the plastic grill at the top of the microwave. It's held on by two screws. Once you've removed the screws and taken off the plastic grill, you go to the right side of the microwave and remove another screw that holds a small metal grill in place. Removing the small metal grill is probably the toughest part of this repair. You kind of have to rock it back and forth a bit to get it to release. Once that's off, you can get to the fuse. I removed the burnt out one with a pair of needle nose pliers. I also put a small piece of cardboard under the fuse when I did this so I didn't accidentally drop it into the innards of the microwave. I did the same thing when I replaced the new fuse. I then plugged the appliance back in and made sure it worked. Once that was confirmed, I replaced both grills.
Glass turn table made loud noise while turning then stopped turning
This repair could not have been easier! The website was great at helping to identify the problem and the part needed. Users discribing how they did the repair gave me the confidence to do it myself. I got the part the day after I ordered it, installed it and my microwave was a good as new! It was as simple as unscrewing seven screws to remove the bottom of the microwave. Then two more screws to remove the part. Unplug the broken drive, plug in the new one and screw everything back together! Don't forget to unplug your microwave before you begin.
Loosen screw holding glass cover plate in place over bulb. Glass cover plate will swing down. Unscrew bad bulb, replace with good bulb, reset glass cover and tighten screw.
The handled is bolted on the outside door panel and inside to a window panel. Not knowing if all would break when snapping it apart. No screws to disassemble the door. Every part snaps together and when snappin apart you've got to have good skills to recognize how to remove each part without brea
removed the inside cover (plastic) around the glass. removed the 2 screws inside the the panel. Snapped of the door panel and removed 2 more screws. Replaced the handle by screwing it in two places on the door panel. Snapped that panel back on to the door then placed the 2 screws back in to connect handle to an inside panel for sturdiness. Replaced the inside plastic modeling that surround the door carefully and then it was done. Removing all panels require caution because of ease in breaking them.
Upon taking the faceplate off (unplugged power source first) I found one of the wires going to the THERMO SW-TCO SENSE TEMP was completely burned away. I cut back the wire and spliced a new section with heat shrink connectors and I replaced the THERMO SW-TCO SENSE TEMP. I plugged the power back in and it works great.
I first took the filters of the exhaust and then removed the screws on the bottom of the combination microware hood fan. Once the 6 retention phillips head screws were removed from the bottom of the microwave, and the hinged bottom "door" lowered the motor was exposed. I removed the motor by removing the two phillips screws and unplugged the motor. The hardest part was finding a replacement on the net because most shops did not give enough details or pictures to know if a part was exchangable or a replacement. Partselect.com listed the parts, motor voltage, and had pictures so that I was comfortable with ordering. The part arrived the day it was scheduled to and I simple reversed the process and within 5 minutes I had the microwave motor in and back together. It is nice to do business with a place that also gives you a returns policy upfront.
Removed upper cover. Removed screws in cover plate & motor mount. Removed inner cover with pop screw inside microwave. Reversed procees to install new motor.
After closing door the display panel must be tapped on to keep the unit operating.
The switches are not the problem! The problem is in the tolerences of the latch housing. I have ordered two new housings (Upper & Lower) and will see if the tolerences are closer. If not I will try epoxying a shim to the plate that operates the microswitches. The other option is to file the mounting slots of the housing to allow adjustment, which would be iffy,keeping them from moving with use. The exploded drawings really need to be clarified. The scale is way too small. It was extremely difficult to pick out the individual parts of the mechanisiam.
Touch pad failed to respond to any programming effort
Went to onlin source, found a couple youtube videos then went to the GE site which had a not-too-easy that find trouble shooting guide. It was extremely helpful as it described a fuse as a fix 80% of the time for touch paid failure. I really didn't believe it would b a fuse, but it was the cheapest fix, $8. I got the fuse and was surprised to fine there are two of them on this model. I took a guess and replaced the top one ( neither fuse was black or burned to indicate a failure but the top one was a bit mor greyish). put it all back together and it works fine.