Front Large Most Powerful Burner's Block had broken so it didn't heat
This electric stove has a lift up top which I lifted to get at the block and follow the wire back to the terminal at the back of the the stove. I removed the 5 small lag screws holding the back in place, removed the backing followed the wires back to where they connected in the Stove On/Off Control, disconnected the two wires from the control and then laid the new part in place rethreading and reconnecting the wires. I reinstalled the block and ran a test to ensure the burner operated correctly. After successful testing I disconnect the old block holder by removing the small lag screw, replace it with a new one that came with the replacement terminal block. I then inserted the block into the new holder carefully rolled up the excess wire and wrapped it in a couple of places with electrical tape and also secured it to the side of the stove, out of the way of operation with electrical tape, put the top down, plugged it back in and put it back in place. All told the repair took about 40 minutes. I was impressed with the speed of delivery, the quality of the product, the instructions for installation and the added bonus of getting a terminal block holder as part of the repair kit! Thank You for making me look like a genius!
I could not believe how easy it was to repair my own oven! Honestly I was shocked. I pulled the oven out, unscrewed 7 screws, pulled the old element out, placed the new one in, replaced the screws and I was done. All I could think about was how much money I saved! Also, it took me about 15 minutes.
I had to replace my drip pans as well as the heating elements on all four burners
Very simple to replace, pull off the old element and push in the new one. Not only was it super easy, part select was so easy to work with. I had placed the order wrong, and immediately called customer service. They cancelled my order and placed the new one, refunding my money within 2 business days for the wrong order. Courteous, friendly and prompt. I would highly recommend them! Oh, I forgot to mention that the parts actually fit perfectly, unlike drip pans bought elsewhere. Thank you, Sincerely, Cindy
The old single heating element support clips came loose over time.
I ordered the replacement clips from this site and they arrived in a timely manner. The clips were perfect, but due to the age of the oven, the holes had elongated and the new clips kept falling out also. I modified the clips by widening the tips with a pair of pliers. They are holding just fine. I don't think the older clips could've withstood the modification.
Original terminal block plastic shielding melted, protecting appliance when the wires overheated.
Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.
Light not working tried to Remove light assembly not knowing glass could screw out. Without thinking grounded exposed hot wire to burner bracket melting light socket connector. Had to replace socket.
First and most important trun off curcit breaker. Use 1/4 inch but driver to remove socket (2) screws. Remove ground and hot wire clips from old socket, replace on new socket. Screw back into oven ceiling and turn on power. Reset clock and your are done. Very simple.
pulled range out, unplugged unit, took out 7 screws, unplugged the elements, reinstalled elements, replugged, and completed with the 7 screws back in place. The 30 minute time was replacing both the broiler and bake elements. The parts were also delivered in a very timely manner. Could not have been more pleased and was very cost effective.
Unscrewed the heating element from the inside back of the oven and removed the housing cover from the back of the stove to access the terminals. (The unit had arked and fused the terminal to the connector.) Installed the new unit and replaced the housing cover on the back and screwed the unit into the back of the oven. Works like a charm.
Switching out the part was reasonably easy. The hard part twas that over 15 years some of the other parts have dried out. The oven indicator light came loose and the tabs on the clock were broken. With the help of some glue & some Z bracket it is back together minus the oven indicator light. Not perfect but cheaper than buying a new one.
First I unplugged the stove. I then removed the control panel using a flat head screw driver. Then I removed the two screws (phillips head) holding the element in. Five wires had to be disconnected from the old element and placed on the new one. As I removed each wire from the burned out element, I placed it in the same place on the new one. I then replacedd the element on the stove and put the control panel back in placed. I plugged the stove into the wall outlet and tested the element control. This whole procedure took no longer than about fifteen minutes.
Unplugged the Range and removed the two screws holding down the cook top. You do not need to remove the vent chamber at the rear of the range since the top lifts up about 4 inches. This should be enough room to get your hand onto the plug going to the door switch. Pull off the plug and remove the swich. Pop in the new one, put on the plug, reinstall the two screws and you are done!
Read the thread on "burnt smell" and DO NOT assume it is a burned out element. Follow your nose!!
