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Maytag range had "F3" code display, oven would not work.
Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.
Very easy to repair, but you have to be able to pull your stove out. Two screws in the oven and then remove part of back cover of oven and one plug from there. Simple to do, but did not fix our problem. We are waiting repair now from service company as it looks like it needs a control panel. Worth trying yourself to fix the problem. Inexpensive part and easy to install. Also be sure to turn power off your oven to reset the control panel as this may fix the problem - try this first and also after installing new part - like rebooting a computer...
First I removed the 4 screws that hold the cover in place. I then removed the 4 screws that held the clock. I pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the 3 wires, swapped the old with the new clock and reinserted the screws.
The great thing though was my order arrived the day after it was ordered. Good going!
Electronic panel on oven went blank; oven still worked if you recalled where to press
Actually, my brother was visiting and he removed the screws that held the panel in place, pulled it out and disconnected all the wires, noting how things were connected. Each set of wires was fairly idiosyncratic in shape and color, making it pretty obvious how they connected, but one tripped us by having several different ways that seemed to fit. After one negative trial, he found the right way to make it fit. We were amazed at how easy it really was.
the glass front that houses the clock has four screw just above the door. Open the door to access the screws. Once the screws are out, the glass front can be lifted up off the oven. Instead of replacing the housing and the circuit board I removed the board from the housing and and it snaps back into the old housing.
Remove trim piece from microwave above oven. Remove 5 screws from inside oven below the display and control module Lift out module and unplug three wire harnesses Remove display and PCB from module. Install in reverse
Removed the oven from the wall. Removed back cover and unplugged sensor from the harness. Remove and replace sensor from inside the oven. Reconnect harness and reinstall back cover. Secure oven back into the wall.
Had to remove oven from mounting cabinet to get to the back since the wire lenght to the conector was to short to come through the mounting hole. Other than that the repair was straight forward. 4 screws to dismount the Oven from cabinet, 2 screws to remove Sensor and 3 srews to open the back of the oven once out in the open. New cable adapter that came with the new sensor was needed in my case.
Flipped off breaker and removed oven door and pulled built in stove out so the back panel could be removed. Unplugged the sensor then removed the two screws securing the old sensor inside the oven and installed new sensor. Put stove back together and installed back into counter top, re-installed oven door, flipped on the breaker and oven works like new.
Top oven element works, but bottom element works only intermittently
Replaced the long Oven Sensor but have not resolved the root problem. Oven still will not reach required temperature. Bottom element becomes red hot, but turns off and will not start again.
After doing an oven self clean cycle, oven temp couldnt be set correctly, heat element was warm,not hot
After trying to set the bake temp after the self cleaning, it would not heat up. I Googled the model number,selected your link because it mentioned my symptom,and said usually it is the temp sensor in the oven that gets damaged by the high self cleaning heat. Your site had a place to enter my model number. You provided a great exploded view of the parts, showing me my sensor,then you provided the part number of the kit i needed,and filled out the order form with payment method. Less than a week later I got my part with instructions. Your video showed me the two screws I remove from the front ,and I pulled the old part out and uplugged it's connector. Replacement was easy, and oven was fixed! Thank you for a great site! You held my hand through it all!
The door came off easily after I removed the two hinge covers that are attached to the oven. Taking the door off can be done with one person but ideally two.
The new parts fit in perfectly and the hinge pin used for shipping comes out easiest with a pair or wire cutters (you do not cut it just grab it and pull).
After that, re-assemble the door and drop in place. It was a snap.
FYI...the shipping was ultra fast and the price was great.
The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.
Oven control portion of the electronic clock assembly failed (became too dim to read).
This is a straight forward part replacement. You will need a phillips screw driver, a hex nut driver, a towel folded lengthwise, and a flash light. A second person's hands are helpful, but not necessary if you have a folded towel ready to use. First, shut off the electricity to the oven at the circuit breaker. Then open the oven door and remove the four phillips head screws under the oven control panel. The panel will then lift up and out easily. Highly recommended: have a second person present to help hold the control panel securely while you remove the three wire cable plugs from the existing electronic clock assembly to avoid scratching the plastic surface of the control panel against the sheet metal brackets that hold it in place. Alternatively, have a folded towel handy so that you may rest the control panel face down on the sheet metal brackets from which it was removed with the folded towel protecting it from being scratched by the metal brackets. Once the wire cable plugs have been removed, the control panel may be moved to a safer location with a soft surface (on a towel or other protective surface) to remove the four hex screws that hold the clock assembly to the control panel. Substitute the new part and replace the hex screws to hold in place. Attach the three wire cables to the new clock assembly, set the control panel back into it's brackets, and replace the four phillips screws to hold it firmly into place. Reset the circuit breaker to the oven. Reset the clock time, which will be 15 to 30 minutes slow (the time you had the power off). Done!