Enter the code USA15 at checkout to apply your discount. Discount will be applied at checkout when the code is entered & applies to all parts. Cannot be combined with any other coupon or special offer & cannot be applied to a previously placed order. Not valid toward tax or shipping & handling. Discount has no cash value. Discount expires on July 1 at 11:59pm EST.
You've Got 10% Off Your First Order!Save 10% with code at checkout *click to copy coupon code
The terminal blocks become brittle and carbonized with age resulting in very poor contact with the electric burners. The burners lose capacity to heat fully and eventually stop working.
Unplug the stove first! There is a risk of dangerous electrical shock if the power is not disconnected.
Repair involves removing the burner and the drip cup to expose the terminal block. Remove one screw on top to detach the block from the stove top. Remove the insulating cover and the clip that holds it in place on the back of the block. Detatch the two wires. At this point the age and brittleness of the blocks became apparent as they crumbled in my hand while removing the terminal screws. One screw had several layers of carbonization covering it and required needle nose pliers to get a firm grip in order to loosen it.
Inspect the wires to make sure there are no holes or cracks in the insulation.
Attach the wires to the new terminal block using the new screws provided. The new kit also included quick lock screw fastener clips to place over the holes in the stove top. It's a good idea to use these for more secure mounting and better grounding. Place the new terminal block under the stove top and mount it with the new screw provided. I had to unbend the mounting clip slightly to get it to fit, but it was easy enough to do with bare fingers.
Replace the drip pan and the burner. Plug the stove back in.
A pot of water now boils in under a minute compared to the 5 to 10 minutes it used to take.
removed the end caps from the stove panel, unscrewed the back, unscrewed the old switch, CAREFULLY noting which wire went to which terminal, removed the wires. Reversed the process. took a little longer because I felt compelled to do a thorough cleaning while I was there.
I couldn't find the oven model number so I just looked at the shapes from partselect.com. This would have been fine except I didn't know my Kenmore model had 4" leads so the one I ordered were only 2". I had to return the first element but the process to do this was FAST and EASY. With help I found the model number and had the correct part shipped. It took less than 5 minutes to install. It took longer to mop and clean behind the oven that hadn't seen the light of day in 10 years.
This range is about 30 years old and I was thrilled to still be able to get the bake element, which burned out about a month ago. I was doing research to buy a new stove when a cousin, from out of town, called to say they were going to visit the following week. No time now to get a new one installed. "partselect.com" was the fastest way. THANK YOU!
First off, I want you to know I'm an obese 56-year female without tools. But, I knew where to borrow those.
I first shut the power off to the range. I then disconnected the 2 screws that hold the element and pulled it out to reveal the 2 screws which connected the wires. I unscrewed those and removed the bake element. I double checked the stove model and bake element part # at the GE website and ordered it from "Partselect.com". It came in about 3 days. I then reversed the order of the above and it was done.
Here are some challenges I encountered.. 1) The oven door was in the way making it uncomfortabe to get to the back of the stove. 2) Those $#%& screws are so short I kept dropping them. 3) The wires in the back bend easily. Be careful.
That's about it. It was a pill but not a real problem. It sure beat buying a new range before I've decided on which one to buy.
First I turned the power off to the oven/stove at the breaker box in the basement. Then I took the back plate off. Then I removed the two screws holding the wires onto the damaged element. Then I removed the two screws holding the element to the inside rear of the oven. Then I pulled the old element out and replaced it with the new element. I replaced the two screws that hold the element to the inside of the oven. Then I replaced the wires on the element where it protruded at the back of the oven. I put the back plate back on, slide the oven back in place and turned the power back on at the breaker and everything worked.
Removed oven door by holding sides and pulling upward. It's easy to remove and replace. Removed shelves by sliding back and up, then out. Removed two hex nuts with socket wrench. They are on back wall of oven and secure element to that wall. I then pulled element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two leads.
I put new element in, reconnected two leads, replace two hex nuts and was done.
Turn off power to stove at circuit breaker before starting.
Oven element melted then naturally would not heat.
First I removed the two screws that held the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Then I removed the old element from the oven and replaced it with the new element. Then I connected the two wires to the new element and pushed the element into place. Then I replaced the two screws that held the element in place. I then tested the oven and it worked wonderfully.
Something Had Dripped Down On The Baking Element Causing It To Over Heat In One Spot And Short Out.
This was so easy to do. First I took the two screws out of the holding plate. Then the element comes out and I took the two screws attaching the wires to each end of the element out. To replace it just reverse the above and turn it on let it heat for about 10 mins to burn off any residue and you are ready to start baking again. Although not really necessary it is reccommended to unplug or turn of the breaker before you start working on the problem.
The heating element in the oven failed, after at least 16 years of good service.
First, we turned off power to the range. We removed the screws holding the element to the back wall of the oven and pulled out the element a few inches. We disconnected the 2 wires from the old element, and attached the new element with the 2 provided screws. We pushed the element back into the wall and secured it with the screws. Turned the power back on, turned the stove back on and, voila, the frozen pizza was well on its way to becoming dinner!
Firs I shut the power off to the range. Then I removed the bottom oven rack, then removed the two screws holding the element in place. I pulled the element out about 3 inches to pull the connecting wires off. However, when I pulled the element towards me a lost on of the connecting wires that attached to the element. I then had to pull the range away from the wall and remove the back cover panel.I then fed the new element into the wholes from the inside of the range and having the back panel removed gave me full access for reconnecting the element wires. I put the back cover panel into place , put the bottom oven rack in and that was it. I was done with the repair. I turned the power back on and everything worked fine. I would recommend removing the back cover panel prior to trying to remove the element. This will save you some time and give you full access to the wiring before attempting to remove the bake element.
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires, then i connect the new element and and replaced the screwes that held it in very simple and I must say Part select was very fast at getting me the correct part the first time , they have earned a spot in my Favorite list
