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Alarm would sound whenever oven turned on - with an error message code
Watched the video on the PartSelect site. Could not have been an easier repair and I saved the cost of a service call - probably saved at least $100 - $150 in service call and I can only guess what the labor cost would have been. Will use this business again for other appliance repairs on my older stove, washer, etc. By the way - the official Kenmore site said this part was no longer made and unavailable --- Thank you PartSelect for having the part and saving me the cost of buying a new stove!
Replaced igniter pins but no joy, needed igniter module
Most videos show getting to the igniter module from the front when in fact with this older GE its accessed through the back left corner from the backside. So easy, a few screws and I was in. Quick change out and all worked well again.
The bolts were below the base of the oven, and very difficult to remove and replace. The directions were not applicable to our unit. The good news was the igniter was correct, even though we had to adapt the bracket.
the instructions given for this part were not 100 % accurate, our oven door required multiple, dis assembly and was unable to complete the task, local handy men refused to come to assist since the job was already started, it appears I will now need to buy a new oven , I was disapointed in the help because had we known we had the more diffcilult oven, would not have attempted, I did give the correct model and serial number to the person when discussing this part
Removed oven door, warming drawer, oven bottom, oven burner, disconnected wires to igniter. Also, instructions said to turn off gas supply at pressure regulator, {little red lever.} I also turned off main gas supply, and un-plugged power cord. Removing the igniter and replacing with new one was easy. Splicing wires and putting everything back together was also pretty easy. The only problem was when I tryed to open the gas to the pressure regulator, the little red lever popped off. Very cramped area to work in, could'nt get a tool to fit in there. So, I got some nylon string, made a loop, looped it on the notch on the pin, pulled it out and got the little red lever back onto the pin and then was able to open the valve. There is no gas going to the burner if that lever is not on holding the pin out, and you can't put that lever back on unless the pin is pulled out. If I ever do that job again I will not touch the red lever, I will just shut off the main gas supply. It would have been a pretty easy fix if that lever would not have popped off.
Removed the drawer at the bottom of the stove, then removed plate in rear covering the wires. unplugged the 2 wires coming from Igniter, then removed 2 1/4" srews holding the ignitor in place, took the old Ignitor and cut the 2 wires and spliced them to the new Ignitor reinstalled the new Ignitor in reverse order of removal. Saved over $110.00.
0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot. 1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back. 2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap. 3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place. 4. Put the cap back. 5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
With multimeter checked resistance of oven sensor. Specs called for 1100 ohms. It was off by 27 ohms. The sensor from Part Select had exact wire connection as original. Then just matter of undoing old and reconnecting with new one.
One unsatisfactory event. I asked Part Select why my clock did not work or light up(timer works ok) . Answer was: sorry we have no time to help you. That soured the otherwise happy experience.
1) Verified it was the broiler igniter that was damaged. 2) Removed the oven door, the lower pot storage drawer and the top range panel. 3) Turned off the gas supply in the top range area. Pulled the electrical plug-in out of the lower electrical panel (behind the lower drawer). 4) Used the nut driver to remove the two (2) 1/4" screws that held the igniter to the back wall of the oven. I later read in the Use & Care Guide that this is easier to do if the broiler burner cover is removed first. 5) I pulled the damaged igniter away from the back wall, expecting to expose wire connectors or splicing but was only able to get about 6" of the two (2) insulated wires before I could not pull them any further. 6) Therefore, I cut the wires and, without a proper wire stripper, cut about 3/8" of insulation away in order to make a splice between the wiring from the new igniter and the wiring coming out of the back of the oven. Big mistake ..... do not recommend this without using a proper wire stripper! I must have cut into the existing exposed oven wiring on one of the wires such that when I used the twist-on to make the splice, most of the wires (those wound together to form one wire) were damaged and broke away. Unfortuantely I did not find this out until everything was put back together and we (my wife and I) did the test. No results! 7) I took everything apart again and when I tried to pull the wiring back out from in behind the oven wall, one wire came out with the twist-on in tact and the other came out "with no wire attachment". 8) I now had to figure out how to get into the back of the oven to retrieve the "lost connecting wire". It is quite simple when you know what you are doing but no instructions (that I had) advised that the upper back light gauge metal panels could be easily removed to expose the wiring. This was eventually determined and the connections were both made again in a more positive manner. 9) We (my wife and I) put it all back together and this time it was fine ..... just had to be patient while the gas purged the air out of the broiler burner line. 10) Lessons learned: GE made it easy "once you knew how it could be done". I suspect GE feels that service type people should be doing these things but with a 120VAC (vs higher voltage electric type ovens) system why not provide the info for the "do-it-yourselfers" as well?
I took all of the oven racks out , then the bottom cover, over the element. I immediately saw the igniter coil was broken. I took the element out and disconnected the two wires. (I saw that the igniter coil was broken and knew that must be my problem. I got my manual out and found the part number and got on line and started shopping. I found part select, the price was fair and ordered it the same day. It was shipped out to me the same day I ordered it. Received it the next day and had the oven working again. Easy to order, great customer service, fast shipping department. Great job to all of you folks at Part Select. I would recommend PS to anyone that wants to save money and do it yourself. Go for it. tk middlebury IN.
was still using back burners while waiting for parts (after safety check). I unplugged the electric for the igniters, raised top, installed tubes, checked for leaks with soap solution, closed top, plugged in electric tested burners. Got a big hug and kiss from my wife.
oven would not come on.igniter has to light for oven to come on
well first off I repair commercial HVAC equipment for a major drug company so I think I've done it all.I thought it cant be much different than any burner assembly.I made it harder than it had to be,anyone can do this.I removed lots of unneccessary things.Let me help you only take out the drawer on bottom of stove.so I started on top and worked my way down.save time and open the stove to were the door stops then have faith and give a good yank.this will remove the door,dont be afraid it will go right back on those two hinges easy.now that this is out of the way remove the bottom plate that covers the burner assembly (2 screws)in back pull it out then you see the igniter.as I said before with drawer pulled out remove the 2 1/4"nuts screws holding it up then from bottom.Unplug this stove then remove the 2 places its plugged in to.after you remove this there are 2 screws that hold it into the igniter remove them .cut the wires with enough room to re use the plug ends.strip the wires and use the wire nuts that they provide then put back together with new wires on new igniter then.re attach.put everything back together in the reverse order you took them apart.plug in stove and see the igniter light up again and light stove.do not call repairman you can do this.save your money for you its bad enough you have to buy anything else.
