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Oven bottom badly marred after 16 years.
Two set screws in rear; removed easily with a screwdriver. Old oven floor lifted out easily; new oven floor dropped in just as easily; set screws re-installed. Done. Pleasantly surprised at how easy this went.
Mother board shows F8 means that is no longer good
Opened the back and installed the new one. The only problem was pealing the paper of the old one that shows the labels. Strongly recommend to buy that part also. The job will be more neat.
Part came as ordered. Hardest part was fitting plastic wiring harness through the hole with 2 layers of steel with insulation in between. Used electrical tape to stiffen the end about an inch or 2 back from harness. Job done, problem solved
had to take back off of oven because of the connector and the plug end insert had the wrong pin so i had to take it apart and use old ones then i put the assembly in /and put oven back together
First I removed the botoom drawer. Second, removed three 1/4 in (head size) screws and removed the reflector pan from the bottom of the oven. Third I removed the three racks in the main part of the oven and then the two slot head screws that retain the oven floor. I then removed the oven floor. Four, now that I had access to the ignitor, I removed the two 1/4 (head size) screws that mounted the ignitor to the burner. Fifth I disconnected the wire plug which is located in the lower section of the oven. I was unable to route the wire with it's connector on out of the oven, so I just snipped the wires and took it out in two pieces. Installation was just the reversal of this with the obvious exception of snipping the wires. I was able to route the wires differently so that I did not have to pass the connector behind any restrictions. Finally afte all was reassembled, I did an ops check and everything worked just fine.
To get to the element I had to remove the lower cover from inside the oven.
After that I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the wires. The wires are accessible from behind the undertray.
Installation of the new one was simply the reverse.
Before re-installing the burner cover I did a quick test to ensure the new igniter functioned properly and that I hadn't mis-diagnosed the problem. The element quickly started to glow and that was it.
Remove the sheet metal that covers the burner and the igniter. For me this was two screws located in the rear of the oven. Two 1/4 inch screws held the igniter in place. I then cut the wires on the faulty igniter as close to the porcelin as possible. I cut the clip off of the new igniter and stripped the ends of all 4 wires, splicing then together with the ceramic wire nuts that were included in the kit. I fed the excess wire to the rear of the stove and reattached the new igniter to its mounting bracket. Replaced sheet metal. Plugged the unit into the outlet and away it went. Worked great.
All it took was for my husband to remove the screws that held the part in place and disconnect the two wires. He then replaced the part, connected the wires and screwed the screws in. We turned the oven on and it worked perfectly.
This is our second part that we have ordered. The frist part was just as easy as the second.
First I unplugged the stove. I gently removed the two screws that hold the old element in place. I snipped the wires and then twisted the new wires with the stove wires and placed caps on wires. GENTLY replaced new element with screws. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. Then I tested the oven after I put it back together and the oven works perfectly.
The repair was pretty straight forward. I simply removed the old igniter, then I snipped the wires. Using the included wire nuts I spliced the old wires with the new. The longest time was spent looking for my wire strippers. I must say that the customer service was very quick and responsive. I received the part but it was broken. One call to customer service and the new part arrived the next day. Great job!!
Ignitor would glow at orange but not white. Not enough heat to open valve to let gas run
Got the general idea off a u-tube video. Very simple and would have been even easier had I used a 1/4 in nutdriver instead of socket. Removed 2 screws (flathead) on the lower cover of oven. Removed 1 nut holding shield. Removed 1 nut holding protective trap door on rear, pulled coupling through hole and disconnected. Removed 2 nuts holding ignitor. That's it. Replace everything in sequence and your done.
