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Igniter Would Not Light
It all began one find night baking and suddenly the oven would not light up. And so for the next few years all I ever used the stove for was for stove top cooking, See Im a single guy so its not in my nature to get to fancy when it comes to cooking home meals,but after a while the mood changes and you finally get up the motivation to fix whats wrong. The change over went easy,easier than I expected.And the part worked just fine. As far as ease of the order and receipt,couldnt have been better,I got the part within 48hrs and that is fast! Thanks to all. T.Melillo
Thanksgiving was coming and I needed extra oven space. So I ordered an additional rack. Installation ... just put it in the oven. My part came the day after I ordered it.
the flame spreader through the years, developed a hole above the glow coil causing the above trapped gas between the oven pan and spreader to ignite. by replacing the flame spreader the problem is gone and is now working properly. thank you, parts select for being there when i needed the part and also being reasonably priced. mike marino
Pretty easy in all. The connector from the igniter to teh power sorce didn't quite fit. Ijust cut off the new one and spliced the old one back on. Probably could have made my life easier if I took off the oven door, but it just meant I had to reach more. Works great, and other the connector, which I didn't really think would fit a 15 year old oven,it was very easy/.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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Oven would not heat
This would've been an easy repair, but I ran into some complications.
First I removed the thumb screws holding the bottom oven pan, took the pan out, and also took the bottom panel off the front of the oven.
This gives you access to the burner assembly. I disconnected the wire to the ignitor. I then removed one screw at the front, and two in the back of the burner assembly with a 1/4 socket wrench.
The burner assembly came out. I tested the ignitor for continutiy with a multimeter to ensure this was the faulty part. There was not continuity, so I knew the ignitor needed to be replaced.
This was when I tried to unscrew the ignitor, and both screws stripped their threads on the burner mounting plate. Complication #1. Seems with age, that mounting plate tightened up on the screws.
I cut the screw heads off with a dremel and cutting wheel to get them out. I'm glad I did this before ordering the new part because I needed to order the replacement screws too.
The burner mounting plate for the ignitor needed to be re-tapped to get the new screws in with a 10-32 tap and power drill.
Once the mounting plate was properly rethreaded, I attached the new ignitor, and reattached the burner assembly to the oven.
When trying to connect the wires, the plastic connectors wouldn't click together. They matched up fine, but wouldn't go all the way in. Complication #2. While the plastic connectors were properly mated, the inside pins were both female. The old ignitor had male pins on it, the new one had female pins. So I removed the burner assembly again, cut off the new ignitor connector and spliced in the old ignitor connector with the included porcelain wire nuts.
I put the oven back together again, fired it up, and it worked great.
opened back panel. noted location of colored wires. disconnected wires & removed module. attache wires to new module & attached module to panel. closed up back panel. tested all burners
I removed the door and the racks, and the flame spreader. I removed the 4"X6" shield loosen the circular flap to plug the new igniter to the recepticle. Turn the oven on to check the operation and if it comes on, button it back up. remember open the oven door approx 3" and pull upwords to remove the door. I would say 90% of the time the igniter is the problem.
Once we knew which part was needed, we went on to your site and orded the part. It was delivered the next day! Partselect.com is bookmarked on every computer in our household, including mobiles. It's great to know there is such a fantastic resource for do-it-youselfers. It took 5 minutes to remove the old igniter and plug in the new. A screwdriver is the only tool required.
Replace Oven light socket and light bulb in kitchen Range
1) Turn off power at circuit breaker panel 2) Slide out Range from wall 3) Unplug Range 4) Remove back panel and unplug electrical connections to socket 5) From front of oven, remove glass cover over old oven light bulb and remove flange that holds socket and bulb 6) Remove old socket from mounting flange and discard. 7) Place new socket into mounting flange 8) Screw mounting flange and new socket into the oven from front. Reattach electrical connections from back. 9) Screw in new light bulb from front 10) Replace existing glass cover over new light bulb and snap wire holder in place 11) Replace back panel 11) Plug in range 12) Slide range back to original position 13) Turn on power Works like a charm! Thanks for having the parts after 30 years!
First I removed the broiler from the bottom of the oven, then pulled the oven way from the wall to unplug it. I then removed the two screws that hold the igniter element in place. Ironically, the plug GE manufactures is reversed so i had to strip the plug and go end and reverse the wires to attach them to the oven. I used ceramic wire attachments as plastic would surely have melted. Replaced the screws, replaced the broilers, plugged it in, replaced against the wall and it fired up.
The bottom strip had become rusty and looking badly
I pulled the oven door off the hinges and took the bolts out of the bottom of the over that were holding the strip on. I then pulled the strip off and replaced it with the new on. I replaced the bolts and then replaced the door on the hinges.