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Broken Hinge on the pantry drawer and cover.
First I removed the drawers above the pantry drawer. Then I took out the pantry drawer. I unsrewed 3 screws that attached the part to the refreg. I then removed the rails that were attached to the part I was repalcing and put them on the new part. I then install the new part. Put the firg back together. It was extremely easy and took about 5 minutes to do.
The guide pin, which opens the crisper/pantry lid, broke off. It is integral to the end cap.
First, I removed the drawers at the bottom of the fridge and then I removed the three hex head (7/32) screws that hold the end cap on. Then I disengaged the slider which connects to the temperature control for the pantry drawer. Then, unscrewed the drawer slides with a Phillips from the old end cap. Also the slide push rod has to be disengaged from the clips on the back of the endcap.
Then, I reinserted the push rod to the new end cap and reattached the drawer sliders and the slider itself. At this point I realized I SHOULD have unscrewed the temperature slider at the back where it covers the cold air outlet. The screw had slipped out. I replaced it with a slightly larger wood screw. Reinstall the drawers, all done.
Freezer would get cold at bottom and some of the refrigerator. Took of freezer back panel and located freezer fan. Took a meter and saw power was getting to it, but not working. Removed fan and replaced with new on, working like a charm. Cold air was not circulating enough throughout the unit because fan was not working. It was not the thermostat or adapter control.
Since the crisper didn't come with a front, the old front needed to be removed from the broken cripser and attached to the new one. The easiest way to take off the front is to remove it from the bottom of the crisper. Once the pressure is released it comes off easy. Snap the front on the new crisper by starting with the top and snapping the bottom.
Door was not closing with any positive feel and would often pop open when left door was shut.
Popped out old gasket and popped in nwe one. This is where things get interersting, the new gasket Does work as well as the one I replaced. I think the maganet is not strong enough. If anyone has had the same problem please let me know. This model ( Maytag- French door ) has been a lemon.
First, I removed the Climate control drawers, the lower shelf pieces and the Chef's Pantry drawer so I had room to work.
Next, I unfastened the two screws that held the pantry drawer gilder on the broken righthand end cap and removed the glider.
With a socket tool, I unfastened the three socket-head mounting screws that held the endcap to the refrigerator wall.
The righthand endcap has a climate control adjustment mechanism which includes a finger slider and an extenson bar snapped to the backside of the endcap. This extension bar connects with another bar mounted to back inside of the refrigerator.
I carefully disconnected the climate control mechanism fixed to the refrigerator from the endcap.
With the endcap out of the refrigerator, I next had to disconnect the climate control slide and extension bar from the broken endcap by unclipping several snaps holding these pieces in place.
Now with the new endcap, I clipped the extension bar in place, snapped the finger silder in place, and reconnected this assembly to the climate control bar in the refrigerator and clipped the mechanism to the rear of the endcap.
The socket mounting screws were used to fasten the endcap to the wall. The pantry drawer glider was attached to the endcap with it's screws. The shelves and climate control drawers were put back. Finally, I carefully snapped the Pantry door to the hinge pins on both the left and the (new) right end caps and put the pantry drawer back.
A piece of the frame for the crisper drawers had broken off making the drawers sag
This is the 2nd part I have bought for this refrigerator from Part Select. I wish the parts came with some kind of instruction. I had to re-use parts from the original equipment each time. After studying the replacement part I was able to figure out what I needed to do, but it would have been nice to have a little more information. There were 3 pieces which I needed to remove from the damaged piece and add to the replacement part. I would gladly pay more for a complete replacement part.
Ice maker was leaking fresh water into the tray freezing large clumps of cubes together.
First and foremost shut off the water supply to the Ice maker. Some recommend unplugging the refrigerator or disabling the circuit breaker to the refrigerator. Then after emptying the freezer remove the freezer door by loosening the four hex head screws and lift the door straight up and set it off to the side.You can then remove the lower basket. Now locate the clamps located at the rear sides of the inner basket and use a small flat blade screwdriver to gently push the tabs toward the outside of the side clamps while pulling up at the same time and releasing the clamp. Now repeat this procedure on the opposite side of the inner basket. The inner basket can then be pulled out being careful to not damage the roller tracts or gear rollers. Three hexhead screws secure the ice maker to the wall. The screw under the ice maker must be removed while the two on top just loosened. The electrical plug is removed by depressing the tabs on the top and bottom of the plug and then pulling outward. Carefully lift the ice maker upward and out from the two upper hex head screws. You can then install the replacement icemaker by reversing the procedure.
tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok
For replacing end cap, LH pantry part: removed large pantry drawer removed two small upper pantry drawers removed glass panel and long braces---all these parts required no tools used 1/4" nut driver to remove 3 screws from broken end cap, LH pantry part and shook it to release it from the refrigerator used phillips head screw driver to remove drawer arms replaced metal drawer arms to new end cap, LH pantry part attached new end cap, LH panrty part to refigerator and finised by using nut driver on all 3 screws. then replaced other pantry dawers, glass shelf, and pantry cover. EASY!
Original bracket foot brake screw hole was stripped and foot brake would not extend
The repair seemed simple, I just needed to remove the old bracket -- 4 screws -- and slip the new one on.
The tricky bit is that the roller bracket holds the weight of the fridge. So in order to make sure that the fridge did not fall over, and to keep the installation point off the ground so that I could align the screw holes, I needed to shim up the side of the fridge that I was working on.
To tap in the shims, I used a hammer and a spare chunk of wood. I ultimately used 3 shims, and kept tapping until the roller wheel could roll freely. Then I knew that the fridge was high enough. After that, it was pretty easy to remove the 4 screws, align the new bracket, and replace the screws. After that, in order to get the shims out I could just extend the foot brake as it was designed, and that lifted the fridge enough for me to easily slide out the shims. After that I just had to level out the fridge by adjusting the two feet.
Ordered new drawer -- fast and easy to find the correct part on this site. I also felt that the price was very reasonable. Except for one thing, it would have been simple to slide the new drawer in. The original drawer has a white plastic "face" that is removable. "Removable" is a relative term. It took my wife and I over 20 mins to very carefully remove the face without breaking. One person could not do it --- you need to hold the drawer firmly while another pries the face off carefully. Once off, it was able to be pushed on to the new drawer -- be firm.