Contacted sears home service to perform repair. Quote for repair was $307. 43. ( $196. 90 For labor ,$102. 58 For part) plus $75. 00 For service call. Based on the charge, I refused the repair and ordered the appropriate part from "part select" (733947) (wpl 8201515) motor module for a cost of $81. 84. To my surprise, the part arrived the next day and in 15 minutes the icemaker was in a position to make ice, and has been producing ice ever since. To perform the module replacement, I had to remove one screw with a nutdriver, pull the icemaker out, disconnect a wire harness, replace the module and do the reverse procedure to complete the installation. I saved a total of $225. 59 By doing this repair myself. A lesson learned. . . . . I will always investigate doing a repair myself with the help from the people at part select. Very professional and they sent the correct part the first time.
The Icee ejector arm stopped turning due to icecube jam.
Not being a professional repair tech, I looked at this sites provided schematics of the ice-maker. I assumed due to the problem I had which parts to order. the parts arrived within 3 days and after I took the icemaker apart I quickly realized I ordered the wrong parts. I called and asked what to do. since I did not open the packaging for the "wrong" parts I was able to make a return. I then called back because I discoverd the part I really needed wasn't shown in the sketch. I was told that I needed to order a new motor and it would have the part I needed. I ordered the part and within 3 days it arrived. Once I had the new part I was able to quickly install. Now I have a icemaker that works better than new since ,now it does not seem to jam either.
To make the repair: First remove the 1/4" nut head screw on the under side of the ice maker. Remove the shroud covering the electrical connection. Slide out the maker and depress the locking clip. Disconect the electrical wires. Pull off the motor cover (no screws). Remove the three philips head screws from the motor housing. Gently remove the motor. Next loosen the screws and pull the "black motor-mounting harness" untill enough clearance to remove the ejector arm and deflector tray. The new kit will have a new ejector arm and deflector tray. Insallation is the reverse. The schematics were very helpfull. It was very simple and I saved a $150 service fee to have someone else do it for me. PS. When I called I was able to speak to real live Americans who were able to help me, were pleasant, polite, and professional, AND they did not treat me like I was stupid because I am not a professional repair man. I will definately use this service again. and recommend to all my DIY friends!!
You will need a Nutdriver a 1/4" size and a philips screwdriver, I'm a young woman, It was easy find the pc. I need here since I lost my manual, in this particular piece the inside part is not included the tab that controls the tempeture, you will have to use the same from the broken one, snap off all and carefully remove it from the insideout of the broken piece to intall it in the replacement, make sure you remember how its going back, that was the hard part of all the repair! after that it was easy as 1, 2, 3!!! have fun!!
First I removed the six screws from the cover. I then disconnected the two wires and pulled the small motor out with its base and removed two screws that hold it in place. I then changed the old one for the new one and set it back in its place. I then set the cover back and turned it on. I was happy again.
Unscrewed back of fridge and unplugged relay from compressor and plugged in the new one remember that the new one turns 180 degrees from existing switch.
Light switch rocker broke, disabling freezer internal light, water dispenser, and ice dispenser
Very simple. Matched female plugs with respective male color coded prong; pushed together then inserted unit in slot of freezer sidewall and rotated into position...job done.
No cooling, compressor not running and was very hot
Plied off the relay switch with a screw driver. I could not pull it off by hand. Disconnected the wires to it and replaced with new part. Had problem getting the part back on and lining up the pins with the connector. I had to line up one pin and start at an angle and roll the part onto the contact pins. I was impressed with the one day delivery without paying because it was shipped from a warehouse in California where the repair was made.
Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiver boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed
Ice getting stuck, and water flowing over everything
The on-line video and the hard-copy instructions with the replacement part made it very easy. Just loosened the 2 upper screws and took out the bottom one. Eased the ice maker out a bit and disconnected the plug at the back (power was off). Checked the replacement part had exactly the same wiring harness - it did. Fitted the bail arm from the old one. So simply did the same process in reverse. So 15-20 minutes after I started, the job was compelete. It takes a while for ice to start coming, but it did, and after 24 hours I threw out the ice and started again to make sure the ice came from fresh water.
Once I got the right part the repair was quick and easy. All I had to do is get the old part off with a screwdriver and curved needle nose pliers and the old part came right off. The new part went in just as easy. Quick and easy. Less than 15 minutes.
The ice mold has a coating on it. Over time the coating deteriorates. If your ice maker leaks water into the ice reservoir inspect the mold to see if the coating is compromised. If so, replace with new.
Remove the ice maker assembly. 3 small hex screws. Unplug power cord. Disassemble ice maker assembly. Remove ice mold/heater. Replace with new. Reassemble.
Removed back access cover with quarter inch nut driver, unplugged wire harness, pulled old relay out & plugged in new one, reconnected wire harness, and reinstalled access cover. Piece of cake. (Shipping was very quick) ***Frig was only 3yr an 1 mounth old.*** Maytag - Dependable Huh?