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Lefrt Front Burner Quit Working
Removed two nut screws (accessed with oven door open) with nutdriver, panel dropped out. Transferred wiring one-by-one to new switch, removed old switch with allen wrench, installed new switch, replaced panel. Done! However, the problem is not corrected and all other possibilities have been explored with no solution in site. Ideas needed.
the lower baking element of the oven did a 4th of July sparkler show coming right out of the oven door three days before Thanksgiving
I had the part overnighted since Thanksgiving was in two days and we needed to be able to use the oven. I saw a video on the website that instructed how to unplug the stove. Unscrew the baking element from the inside of back wall of oven. Gently pull out the part to where it is attached to wires. Simply pull apart the male part from female parts. Replace the old element with new element and attach it to the pulled out wires. Then gently push back wires inside the back wall of oven. Screw the attachment back in. We then plugged the oven back in. Turned on the oven to about 300 degrees. We put an oven temperature gauge inside and after a time the oven temperature was at 300 degrees and steady. It was fixed. Thanksgiving was on!
the hardest part of this repair was the wait for the element to arrive in the mail - which was in 4 business days - then took 5 to 10 minutes to get to circuit breaker box in garage. That was the longest part of the repair. My husband took the door off the oven after turning the circuit off in the garage. Followed directions from others who made the same repair and it was done in 2 minutes! Super easy - thanks for saving us money during this time of tight budgeting around the holidays! You're a lifesaver!
i had to replace my oven element as is cracked in half
after finding my part and thank god for you guys i recieved it early it only took 4 days to get here i unscrewed my old oven part and popped the new one in easier than making cookies and now i can bake til my hearts content thanks for being there for me barbara krebs
Took screws out of the back on the side the sensor was on, unplugged it & took out the two screws on the inside of the oven to release the sensor. Put new sensor in place with the two screws & used one of the adapters to plug in the new sensor. Put screws back in the back panel & turned on the oven which unfortunately is still 50 degrees low. Need a new clock with computer which is out of stock & unavailable. I was an electrician for 25 years so didn't experience any problems. It was a cheap thing to try.
Any setting selected (1 thru 9) would result in the surface burner going to full hot
Opened oven door, took four screws out of the front control panel, removed the two screws holding the burner control switch to the front panel, removed the wires from the old switch one at a time and installed them on the new switch. secured the new switch to the front panel, put the four screws back into the front panel, and closed the oven door. Real easy repair.
IMPORTANT WIRE CONNECTIONS: The manufacturer instructions describing where each wire connects is woefully incomplete. There are 6 or 7 wires to connect and only 2 are explained in the instructions. I took several photos of the original switch showing where each of the wires was connected before disconnecting and installing the new switch. If I hadn't taken the photos I would have been completely lost on where each wire connected.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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Front glass shattered
Laid oven on towel covered island counter top. Removed original screws. Dry fit replacement glass face. Removed. Cleaned inner glass. Re-installed door face and secured. Placed door back on oven.
Bake Element shorted out, burned out hi-limit switch
-Disconnected power from oven at the circuit breaker. -Removed oven door and racks. -Removed two screws holding element to the rear wall. -Carefully pulled element away from rear wall, exposing wire leads. -Carefully detached wire leads with male Sta-Kon connectors from element ends. (Taking care not to break or weaken the wires at the connector.) -Disposed of old element and placed new element in same position. -Re-attached leads by very carefully sliding male Sta-Kon connectors into the new element connectors, taking care not to push too hard and bend element wire. -Gently re-inserted element ends into wall and re-attached element to wall with original screws. -Reconnected power and tested new element. Element did not heat. -Disconnected power and looked for collateral damage from original element failure. -Removed oven from wall, removed rear panel and identified the high-temperature limit switch. -Removed Sta-Kon leads and checked switch for electrical continuity. It had none, apparently the result of the high current from original element short. -Obtained new hi-limit switch from Part Select -Removed and replaced hi-limit switch, re-attached leads. -Replaced rear panel and reinserted oven in wall. -Reconnected power and tested new element. Element heated normally. -Returned racks to oven, re-attached door and done.
Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way.Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.
I followed your excellent service instructions. This was the reason I purchased the part from you, even though other websites had the same part for considerably less
raising the cook top on to 2x2s, one on each end, allowed me to remove the 9 sheet metal screws that keep the glass top fastened to the box containing all of the heating elements and controls. After removing the control knobs and the glass top, everything was clearly visible. Removing the four screws that hold the control box frame in place allowed me to turn the switches upside down and photograph the placement of all of the wires on the pins. I then transferred the wires from the old switch to what I thought were the corresponding pins on the new switch(the replacement switch has more pins, and they are not located in exactly the same spots as the old switch). When I turned the power back on, the switch turned the burners on, I had heat but the indicator lights didn't work. I turned the breakers back off and rewired according to a previous commentors wiring directions(his model was not exactly the same as mine), the indicators worked but I was back to no heat. I called my son, who has his own commercial electric company,and he looked at my photos from before, the diagram that came with the new switch, and it took him about 15 minutes to reconnect the pins to different wires and when we turned the power back on---both indicators and heating elements worked. It was the dual switch and double indicator that made it more complex to figure out. Nice to have very smart kids.
