Turned the power off to the oven, unscrewed the ends of the element, connected new element, screwed it back in to place and turned the powe back on. The video provided in my shipping confirmation was very helpful.
Turned oven circuit breaker off. Removed oven racks. Removed 2 screws from old element. Pulled element out slightly disconnected wires on each end and reattached to new element. Pushed back in and reinstalled the 2 screws, reinstalled oven racks and turned circuit breaker back on. All done in about 20 minutes.
Bought bottom element as suggested. Instruction video seemed straight forward. Not exactly.When I unscrewed the element and gently pulled it out to access the connector, one came out an inch or two, however the left side would not slide out. Tugged a little and it released the connector which jumped back inside the oven. Had to slide the oven out from counter, remove a rear covering plate (2 screws and no problem) and found the new element connectors protruded through the rear of the stove for connection. They were covered by the large rear plate I had removed. Screwed the plate back on and, slid the stove back into position, restored power and all was good. Stove heats properly. Happy.
The burner would turn on and not off. The temperature just kept accelerating.
Raised the unit and blocked it with 2 boards. TURN OFF THE POWER IF YOU WANT TO COMPLETE THIS REPAIR. Removed the philip head screws for removal of glass top. Remove the corner screws on switch end. Remove screws holding the switch. Remove screws holing the bracket for all switches. Lift and roll gently to get at wiring. Follow the directions for moving wires from old switch to new switch. MOVING WIRES IS THE MOST IMPORTANT STEP. Reverse your procedure to put back together and when finished remember to turn on the power.
Engaging dual burner switch would blow breaker. All other elements worked fine.
Isolated circuit by disconnecting cooktop breaker. Disconnected blower duct, raised cooktop above the countertop to access screws holding the glass surface. Blocked in place--no need to completely remove cooktop. Removed screws around top of pan with 1/4-inch nut driver--only need to remove any screws close to top of pan and glass surface. Lifted off glass surface. Dual burner switch bracket needs to be removed to access switch and to disconnect wire harness connections. Note there was one screw holding bottom of bracket which was hidden by the wire harness. I was concerned with connections from other reviews; however, in my case, the switch and connections were identical to the original--no problem. Reinstalled bracket and glass cooktop--need to remember flange location (inside versus outside) to assure easy alignment of screws. Drop cooktop back into countertop and reconnect blower duct. Powered back up and dual burner now fully functional.
• Removed the oven door (pulled right off old hinges) • Removed two screws • Removed broken hinge • Placed new hinge in place • Replaced screws • Replaced oven door.
Bought new hinges as that was the obvious problem. Below is the removal, installation process for new hinges. Turns out in my case there was nothing wrong with the hinges. Problem was still there after installing new ones. I found that the metal in the door that butted against the hinges was fatigued causing looseness. I ended up compressing the metal back into shape with a hammer. Problem solved but money wasted on hinges. If you replace hinges. Here is what I did. 1. Open door slightly to where it stops in broiler position. 2. Remove the door by pulling up. 3. Remove two screws in front of hinges that hold them in. 4. Pull range out a few inches for access the remove the side fillers that trim out the stove. 5. Reach in from the side and work hinges out. 5. Pop in new hinges and reattach the 2 front holding screws and the side trim screws. You are done.
Oven sensor caused cooling fan to run continuously. Had to flip breaker to get it to turn off..
Left oven off. Located sensor in pdf manual. Unscrewed mount, pulled sensor out to access connector. Disconnected old sensor, checked continuity(resistance) on ohms with multimeter. No continuity; connected new sensor, screwed mount back into place, turned on oven and baked cookies to check operation & it worked perfectly.
After watching the instructional video (and flipping the breaker to my range) it was straight forward and simple. The heating element was a little bent so didn’t originally sit square/flat to the bottom of the oven so I uninstalled, bent it gently a little and reinstalled and it set down flat. It still didn’t take 15 minutes.
Hired a pro. Parts are difficult to get on a timely basis today , if at all. Screw up this repair by damaging the outer " black glass " and you buy a new stove. It took three weeks to get my replacement glass even though PS said the part was being sent within a day of the order. Even so , I am am happy to have gotten it , and will continue to use the company.
First I turned the power off to the oven using the breaker switch. Removed the old bake element by first unscrewing the 2 screws for each bracket holding each side of the old bake element and unplugging the two current connections.
Replugged and rescrewed above. Turned breaker on for oven. Tested by turning oven to back and watching new bake element heat up.
